Looking to pull 1” poly pipe through soil.

[GoingQuiet]

Looking to avoid excavation of about 150 foot between a concrete foundation and well. Existing 1 inch poly pipe appears to only be hundred psi and has a leak somewhere.

Found this service line pulling kit where you attach a splitter head to a cable that you pull through the pipe so as the splitter head splits the pipe to widen an area it drags the new poly line behind it.

https://www.newconcepttools.com/pro...MI94Cn-c2d6wIVluDICh13ugedEAQYASABEgLdJvD_BwE

Problem with this set up, for me in this particular job site application, is that it uses the muscle of another device such as a backhoe or excavator to pull the cable.

I’m looking for a similar set up where I could mount a ratcheting device similar to a come along inside the 36 inch concrete well pit, to act as the muscle to split and pull.
Any particular tool kit advised?

 

[GoingQuiet]

Here’s an example video. But again, looking for a tool kit with a jacking device to pull the service line with. The poly pipe enters the side of a 36” round well tile at 6’ below grade, so using a steel cable up and out of the well pit, to a more common and practical pulling device isn’t easy without excavating around the well tiles to remove some of those.
If the basement was ground level and walk in with a wide doorway (it’s not) then I’d drive a 36” bobcat in and use that as the pulling muscle while being careful not to kink the new pipe as it’s pulling through from the well outside.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Boycedrilling]

It probably takes more pull than a ratchet comealong will supply. If say you need to rent a mini excavator for a day to do this. Use it to dig the holes you need to.

 

[Ballvalve]

Looking to avoid excavation of about 150 foot between a concrete foundation and well. Existing 1 inch poly pipe appears to only be hundred psi and has a leak somewhere.

Found this service line pulling kit where you attach a splitter head to a cable that you pull through the pipe so as the splitter head splits the pipe to widen an area it drags the new poly line behind it. https://www.newconcepttools.com/pro...MI94Cn-c2d6wIVluDICh13ugedEAQYASABEgLdJvD_BwE

Problem with this set up, for me in this particular job site application, is that it uses the muscle of another device such as a backhoe or excavator to pull the cable.

I’m looking for a similar set up where I could mount a ratcheting device similar to a come along inside the 36 inch concrete well pit, to act as the muscle to split and pull.
Any particular tool kit advised?

Looks and sounds like they pulled that with a truck, and likely why they overshot the pull by several feet. Perhaps you can pull 160 psi poly in 3/4" diameter and thus the pulling forces required would be reduced, as long as the splitter attachment was not oversized. You could rig the pulling end in the basement and use a hydraulic hand ram, but if someone around there does this, I would get a price first. You need to be pretty creative to pull this off cleanly. The learning curve may not be worth it.

 

[Fitter30]

Use a 12,000 lb truck wench in the basement and if more is needed double the line 24,000lb $400. 3/8" cable 2880 lb working. 14,000lb breaking
https://www.harborfreight.com/zxr-1...remote-control-and-automatic-brake-63770.html

 

[GoingQuiet]

Update: Job 1, conversion from 2 pipe jet pump to submersible between basement and 28” round concrete well tile with a 6” steel well case at the bottom of that.

The first job I used the existing 1.25” poly pipe as a conduit to pull 1” poly pipe through from the well pit into the basement.

Tied a small plastic bag onto a thin twine, used a shop vac on the other side to sail that through.
Then tied the twine to a roll of 1/8” x 1/2” Mule Tape (1200 pound test, bought a 3,000 foot roll from the electric supply house for about $230).
Used the twine to hand pull the Mule Tape back through the 1.25” poly (as conduit).
Used a hot screwdriver to push two holes through the 1” pipe wall, about 6” from the end, threaded the Mule Tape through as if the pipe was a sewing needle (outside). Drove 4x4 atv into garage and pulled winch cable to well storage tank location.

Lubed the new line outside generously with lubricant, sold for use in pulling Romex wire. Pulled the Mule Tape, which pulled the new roll of pipe 15’ at a time between winch resets.

Hand pulled 10-3 wire plus ground through the old jet pump return pipe. Had to change the 6” well seal from 2 pipe to 1 pipe. Installed a Goulds 7gs05 (1/2 hp 7 gpm) at 3 feet off bottom of well. New pump control box on the wall (4 wires out to pump for having the capacitor and current relay controlling that, inside). What do you think?

 

[GoingQuiet]

Job 2: Pull new 1” poly pipe through 3” conduit from basement to outside of concrete well tile and through it. Had to excavate just outside the house and just outside of the well tile.

Pictured here is the temporary suction line that I ran over the lawn, going through the window. Homeowner wanted to wait because he was working out of state before proceeding. About 2 months passed.

 

[GoingQuiet]

3” conduit had shifted sideways over the years. That old pipe needs to go through the concrete wall and be hand pulled while walking backwards diagonally across the basement and out through the hatchway door.

 

[GoingQuiet]

Had to create some room to make the radius.

 

[GoingQuiet]

Having walked backwards (with quite a lean) I’ve pulled about 110 feet of a 135 foot pull. Using the old pipe to drag the new pipe. Legs and shoulders were a bit sore for a day.
I set up a new foot valve and drop pipe down to it. Attached new line through wall to jet pump, cleaned Venturi jet (located inside of 3/8” plug just under pump suction inlet, primed pump and headed for the hills.
Homeowner back filled the day after.

 

[GoingQuiet]

Project 3:
This job was only about 50 feet from the house to the 6” steel well casing. Hand pushed 3/4” CTS roll pipe from the basement out through the original 1” poly. It got tough to push on the last 5 feet, maybe a rock on the original pipe or a kink or something.
The CTS pipe uses a stainless internal anti-crush sleeve and a rubber gasketed compression seal on the outside diameter, and those fittings adapt over to NPT.

Evidently this is the only picture I took that day, but will update when I go back to caulk seal between the original pipe and the new pipe. Homeowner called and told me it dripped a little into the basement during a prolonged rain storm.
Anything better than clear silicone caulk to seal there? It’s pretty tight clearance.

 

[Reach4]

Evidently this is the only picture I took that day, but will update when I go back to caulk seal between the original pipe and the new pipe. Homeowner called and told me it dripped a little into the basement during a prolonged rain storm.
Anything better than clear silicone caulk to seal there? It’s pretty tight clearance.

It would be better to seal on the upstream side. I would think that making the inner poly pipe not press so forceful against the square edge of the bigger pipe would be an improvement. Maybe I am misreading the picture.

 

[GoingQuiet]

The upstream side which was in a short excavated trench just outside of the 6 inch steel well casing was sealed but it was some generic cheap caulking that I had laying in the back of the truck. Obviously it didn’t work all that great!
Will probably seal inside with clear silicone and get a picture of that new sleeved pipe coming in and hooking up to the tank T.

 

[Reach4]

The upstream side which was in a short excavated trench just outside of the 6 inch steel well casing was sealed but it was some generic cheap caulking that I had laying in the back of the truck. Obviously it didn’t work all that great!
Will probably seal inside with clear silicone and get a picture of that new sleeved pipe coming in and hooking up to the tank T.

I have seen some suggestion by a well pro, but I forget.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company...0676+8710815+8710954+8711017+3294857497&rt=r3

I have suspected marine sealants might be good. Note that "fast cure" is relative, and in this case can be 48 hours.

 

[Technophile]

Use a 12,000 lb truck wench in the basement and if more is needed double the line 24,000lb $400. 3/8" cable 2880 lb working. 14,000lb breaking
https://www.harborfreight.com/zxr-1...remote-control-and-automatic-brake-63770.html

Just a safety reminder to anyone unfamiliar with what happens when a heavily loaded cable breaks: it acts like a spring, as does anything else temporarily bowed by the force (e.g. a beam a pulley is attached to; truck or excavator tires).
It will briefly continue applying the breaking strength of the cable (here, 14,000 lbs) to the cable after it breaks; the cable may become a projectile. Anyone downrange...