My alcove tub is 1 inch too short; what do I do?

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JanSolo

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Hello again, wise plumbing elders!

My tub arrived and I offered it up to the space in my bathroom.
At a glance, it looks fine!
D57EF888-1D13-4838-8BB9-947EF1EF12D9.jpeg


However, there's a problem. The tub is 60 inches and the space is 61 inches.
754B3E2C-867B-41FD-B70A-10F8B622541D.jpeg


The tub has a skirt that you're supposed to attach to the wall, align with the drywall and then tile over... How am I supposed to bridge that gap and still be able to drywall my room?

Help me, O wise plumbers!

Cheers

Jan.
 

Terry H

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I agree. Add more wood to the back wall to bring it in further and problem solved.

This x 3. Scab studs on the side and just bring them out to where they touch the tub and then nail or screw them to the studs. Easiest way to do it for me
 

JanSolo

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I agree. Add more wood to the back wall to bring it in further and problem solved.

Thanks for answering, chaps!

So I need to buy a bunch of 1 inch strips and attach them to all the existing studs on that wall, yes?
Both horizontal AND vertical, correct?

I need to check that my door will still open too...
 

wwhitney

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Depending on the room layout it may be easier to do the whole wall or to just do the area that will get tile. The latter option will require dealing with a 1" offset in the wall finish between the tile and the drywall. That could be done with a quarter round tile but it adds some complexity.

So if the whole wall is blank, and you won't miss the 1", furring out the whole wall would be simplest. If the wall has a door or window, then dealing with the trim would be trouble, in which case furring out just behind the tile may be simplest.

Cheers, Wayne
 

Terry H

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Thanks for answering, chaps!

So I need to buy a bunch of 1 inch strips and attach them to all the existing studs on that wall, yes?
Both horizontal AND vertical, correct?

I need to check that my door will still open too...

You can do that or use 2x4 to attach to the sides of the old 2x4 studs and that will allow you to move the wall out at far as you need.

That will allow you some movement because most 1x4 etc are not true one inch thick. 5/4 decking boards are true one inch. I would do the 2x4s they are only 2.50$ each and move the wall where you want it. Put studs in the wall and pull out until the are flush with the tub and level to the top, then screw or nail off.

hopefully I’m making sense.
 

JanSolo

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Is it better to put strips over the studs or to attach new studs to the sides of the existing ones like this:
420B2451-CC7D-496F-8B08-CA196FC66C3A.jpeg
 

wwhitney

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Depends. If the existing studs are all in plane with each other, and proper thickness furring material is readily available, then furring is quicker. If the studs are all over the place, and you can get new straight studs, sistering is quicker. Either way use kiln dried material.

Cheers, Wayne
 

JanSolo

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Hello again, wise plumbing masters! Here's an update on my bathroom project!

As mentioned above, my bathroom was 1 inch too wide for my bath. Everybody suggested widening the wall by 1 inch using furring strips or sistered studs.

Well that's what I did.

I made a little 'guide' with a 1 x 1 notch accurately cut in.
36AAD54E-E6B8-481D-A5F0-A99927335624.jpeg


I lined up my sisters with using the guide and screwed em in with 2.5inch construction screws x3 from both sides.
8E677CC3-CB3E-4C3B-9DB2-6A475B46A00A.jpeg


Here are my results:
959F2F9D-E7B0-4DB5-B10A-58628AA81BE0.jpeg

4E066183-4231-489E-9174-CC7E89769745.jpeg




Questions:

Do I need to have wood right into the corners? Will it support the drywall correctly without it?
898BBE49-FDA0-4042-AB41-D4BDD63CB138.jpeg



I've done all the vertical studs... Do I need the horizontal ones too? The horizontal stud doesn't line up with the width of a sheet of drywall anyway, so if I use two sheets, only one will be screwed into the horizontal... so does that matter if neither of them are screwed in to horizontal studs?
20AF8DDA-7CD8-4011-B5DD-186889007B6B.jpeg

959F2F9D-E7B0-4DB5-B10A-58628AA81BE0.jpeg
 
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Ryan Symons

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I own a tub stretcher for such situations. I can't believe it wasn't suggested!
 

Terry H

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Definitely need wood in the corners and the horizontal bracing was used on older homes to keep the studs from twisting. Most framers don’t use it anymore and since yours are screwed off I wouldn’t worry about that part of it.
 

FM1964

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Definitely need wood in the corners and the horizontal bracing was used on older homes to keep the studs from twisting. Most framers don’t use it anymore and since yours are screwed off I wouldn’t worry about that part of it.
 

FM1964

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Ran into the same problem today alcove is about 1 1/8 too long for tub. Shimming out walls about an inch is a lot of work but I guess it is the only way to do this. Only problem may be with baseboard water heater element on wall, may not be able to fit it without moving hot water pipes a little to accomodate 1" firring strips
 
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