Need Help ASAP - Water Supply Line Location

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Jason Kay

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Hi. Installing a new sink base cabinet which is 27" wide and 2" off the right side wall (left side of cabinet will be 29" from the right side wall). Issue I just discovered is that the hot water supply line is 29" off the right side wall, resulting in no room to fit the cabinet over the supply line. Cabinet installers are coming TOMORROW. I need to move the supply line over a few inches to the right. What's the easiest way to do this? I have never soldered before and I don't want to start. I was thinking open the wall a bit, cut the supply line and add new Pex with shark bite couplings on just the hot water line and keep the cold water as is.

Thoughts, suggestions? Thank you very much. See picture below.
 

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Helper Dave

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Definitely gonna have to cut the wall open to move it. Careful!!! though, you can't really assume where water lines are behind there. Just cut shallow so you only get the drywall.

Then 90 over, 90 out if you've got room for it. Depends how the pipes run back there.

How close is that drainline to where the cabinet wall will be? That could be sitting too close, as well.
 

Jeff H Young

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You said easiest way ? .easiest way could be to open wall remove strap pull it to side a few inches and restrap. not the cleanest way but unless you are putting stress on it its estetic, cabinet guy is on the way! of cource if a stud is in way your SOL
 

Jason Kay

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Opened the wall. This is what we're dealing with. There's a stud, but luckily, there happens to be a hole drilled exactly where I need it (I never get this lucky). I guess the original contractors decided to not go through the hole and over, but straight out to the shut off valve.

I'm thinking to cut the horizontal copper pipe, adding a shark bite coupling. Then get a short piece of copper pipe to go through the stud. Then add a 90 degree shark bite and connect another short piece of copper to come down about 6 inches, then 1 more 90 degree shark bite with another copper pipe out from the wall. Then dry wall it up. Thoughts?
 

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Jadziedzic

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Why not cut the horizontal line to the left of the stud, add a coupling and a short length of pipe to get through the stud, with another coupling on the right of the stud connecting to the section you cut off with the existing 2 soldered elbows? That's one less coupling to install and one less potential leak point, assuming you trust the existing soldered connections. It will also give you a more secure stub-out that won't rotate like a pipe inside your final 90 degree sharkbite fitting would. Whatever you do just be sure to strap the vertical riser to something.
 
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Jason Kay

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Why not cut the horizontal line to the left of the stud, add a coupling and a short length of pipe to get through the stud, with another coupling to the section you cut off with the existing 2 soldered elbows? That's one less coupling to install and one less potential leak point, assuming you trust the existing soldered connections. It will also give you a more secure stub-out that won't rotate like a pipe inside your final 90 degree sharkbite fitting would. Whatever you do just be sure to strap the vertical riser to something.
You mean repurpose the existing soldered elbow?
 

Jeff H Young

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Kinda mickey mouse all those shark bites. if you insist on them why wouldnt you just use 2 couplings with short piece of copper to extend the existing thru the pre drilled hole
 

Reach4

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Why not cut the horizontal line to the left of the stud, add a coupling and a short length of pipe to get through the stud, with another coupling on the right of the stud connecting to the section you cut off with the existing 2 soldered elbows? That's one less coupling to install and one less potential leak point, assuming you trust the existing soldered connections. It will also give you a more secure stub-out that won't rotate like a pipe inside your final 90 degree sharkbite fitting would. Whatever you do just be sure to strap the vertical riser to something.
I think that works. The pipe vertical could be attached to the other side of the stud, and a spacer could increase the offset to the right.

Kinda mickey mouse all those shark bites. if you insist on them why wouldnt you just use 2 couplings with short piece of copper to extend the existing thru the pre drilled hole
That is what jadziedzic proposed with Sharkbite couplings.

I think I would sister a short board on the right side of the stud to move the pipe and Talon clamp to the right more than the minimum.

I was initially wondering about using a single Sharkbite U3008LF https://www.sharkbite.com/products/brass-push-slip-coupling, but that will only bridge a 2 inch gap max. The minimum gap to get onto the other side of the stud would be 2-1/8 plus the saw kerf.
 

Jeff H Young

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You got a few choices. I think your good . Ive used a shark bite a few times and havent had a failure . just not my favorite method
 

Jason Kay

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You got a few choices. I think your good . Ive used a shark bite a few times and havent had a failure . just not my favorite method
Here's my solution....water's on and no leaks. I'll have enough space for the shut off valve which will now be behind the p-trap. Thanks for the help.
 

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Reach4

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Looks good. I would try to add some support, because the SharkBites don't resist turning. Not that there will be much force on that stub.
 
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