Water Heater Replacement with Powered Anode help removing the old WH

[Charlie Bosco]

So first my rant.. what I am finding out is that no Water Heater manufacture really wants you to change the anode. Even though they suggest regular maintenance and replace it. If they added a powered anode from the factory you'd never have to replace it. Seems everything I have read indicates that even brand new they are wrenched so hard that most homeowners just say F it.

So, I need to replace my current heater. its old, drips from the encrusted pressure relief occasionally and the drain threads are so buggied up that I still have not been able to screw a hose on it. I need to drain this 50 gallon piece of crap before I can cut it out of there.

I am trying to anticipate the issues I might run into and wanted some ideas.. I am not too confident I am going to be able to get a hose on the drain.. If I do, I am not sure the Valve will open without breaking and if I get that far, there is most likely so much sludge it wont drain anyway.
So I was thinking I could siphon most of the water out from the Cold line that goes deep in the tank.. Well I recently found out there is an anti-siphon hole drilled into the pipe so that's not going to be possible. Aggh

I read shoving a length of pex down the cold water side might allow me to siphon most of it. It does not have to be completely empty, just light enough for me to use a hand truck to wheel it out of the house and dump it. Im thinking full its like 600lbs.

Before hand I plan to have the new WH ready and with the Powered Anode installed. This brings me to the next question. Any tips removing the factory anode from the New WH?

Im buying a cheap Electric 50 gallon Rheem from Home Depot.. at $389 I can replace this thing once a year and not give a crap. The powered anode is only in case I get sulfur smell. I have a well with a water softener. dont want to take a chance. I plan to use the Sharkbite connector set so no soldering and the supply lines just unscrew.

 

[Reach4]

So, I need to replace my current heater. its old, drips from the encrusted pressure relief occasionally and the drain threads are so buggied up that I still have not been able to screw a hose on it.

How far do you need to get the water to? It looks like the threads are 1-1/16" (1.062") OD. I am thinking you could stretch some 1 inch ID vinyl tubing on there.

Or pull out one of the nipples up top, and siphon from there.

Before hand I plan to have the new WH ready and with the Powered Anode installed. This brings me to the next question. Any tips removing the factory anode from the New WH?

Breaker bar with a 6-sided socket comes to mind, but an impact wrench is more sure. I have only removed an old anode, and that took an impact wrench.

See https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/help-with-stubborn-anode-rod.84943/ #14

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Charlie Bosco]

How far do you need to get the water to? It looks like the threads are 1-1/16" (1.062") OD. I am thinking you could stretch some 1 inch ID vinyl tubing on there.

Or pull out one of the nipples up top, and siphon from there.


Breaker bar with a 6-sided socket comes to mind, but an impact wrench is more sure. I have only removed an old anode, and that took an impact wrench.

Thanks for the quick reply! Tubing idea sounds good.. Id say 12' away to get to a walk in shower and drain it..

I just checked the serial number of my old Maytag.. Its from 2001 !!!!!! 19 years of well water crap in there.. Might be fun to cut it open before tossing it..

 

[Fitter30]

3 /8 id tubing down the cold line. Open drain valve at least twice a year to flush and exercise the valve. For removing anode either a impact or breaker bar a cheater and a 2lb hammer , 2 men. One to hold the heater , one the push on the cheater than hammer the the cheater that jolt should loosen it. If it's just you a racket strap and a 2" by near the top top of the heater. Put heater in a corner 2" by to keep heater from rotating.