The well and system in the our home has undergone changes over the years, prior to and after we purchased the home. Here’s background and question below.
1. Initially the 1/2 hp submersible pump was plumbed to the inside plumbing to a pressure tank and pressure switch and then directly to the house plumbing supply lines.
2. At some point prior owners experienced slow recovery, and added a storage tank and booster pump with second pressure tank to draw water from storage and feed the house supply lines. The storage tank has a float switch wired to a pump controller (which in turn is wired to the pressure switch), and the system has a pump saver monitor in line as well. When this was done, the pressure tank and switch described in #1 were left in place for some reason, but as far as I can determine, the submersible was no longer being shut off, or on, via the pressure switch, only by the float switch or pump saver.
3. Last winter we had the well hydro fracked, and now have 5-7 gpm and no slow recovery issue. Unfortunately iron (less than 3ppm) and sediment came along with the improved flow from the well, so I installed a spin down and 2 stage big blue whole house filter to address those issues. Because of lack of confidence in the future flow rate, we opted to leave the storage tank in place. Since the install of the filter, the pressure switch is now cutting off at 55 psi, I assume because of additional pressure in the system introduced by the filter.
4. The pressure switch and pressure tank first in line from the well, described in #1, appear in contrast to diagrams in this forum, which show such a setup with a storage tank and well pump being controlled by the float switch only. That seems to be a far simpler approach with fewer points of failure or maintenance, and is desireable. I would like to remove the p tank and p switch but in order to do so the electrical connections on the pressure switch must be accomodated.
I assume, and ask feedback, that to remove the unneeded pressure switch, I simply need to install a junction box which wires the a) wires from the submersible, b) wires from the chlorinator, and the c) wires from the pump controller (which connects to the float switch) together. Thereafter the float switch (or pump saver) would be the only devices capable of turning the submersible pump off.
Any advice/feedback greatly appreciated.
Dan
1. Initially the 1/2 hp submersible pump was plumbed to the inside plumbing to a pressure tank and pressure switch and then directly to the house plumbing supply lines.
2. At some point prior owners experienced slow recovery, and added a storage tank and booster pump with second pressure tank to draw water from storage and feed the house supply lines. The storage tank has a float switch wired to a pump controller (which in turn is wired to the pressure switch), and the system has a pump saver monitor in line as well. When this was done, the pressure tank and switch described in #1 were left in place for some reason, but as far as I can determine, the submersible was no longer being shut off, or on, via the pressure switch, only by the float switch or pump saver.
3. Last winter we had the well hydro fracked, and now have 5-7 gpm and no slow recovery issue. Unfortunately iron (less than 3ppm) and sediment came along with the improved flow from the well, so I installed a spin down and 2 stage big blue whole house filter to address those issues. Because of lack of confidence in the future flow rate, we opted to leave the storage tank in place. Since the install of the filter, the pressure switch is now cutting off at 55 psi, I assume because of additional pressure in the system introduced by the filter.
4. The pressure switch and pressure tank first in line from the well, described in #1, appear in contrast to diagrams in this forum, which show such a setup with a storage tank and well pump being controlled by the float switch only. That seems to be a far simpler approach with fewer points of failure or maintenance, and is desireable. I would like to remove the p tank and p switch but in order to do so the electrical connections on the pressure switch must be accomodated.
I assume, and ask feedback, that to remove the unneeded pressure switch, I simply need to install a junction box which wires the a) wires from the submersible, b) wires from the chlorinator, and the c) wires from the pump controller (which connects to the float switch) together. Thereafter the float switch (or pump saver) would be the only devices capable of turning the submersible pump off.
Any advice/feedback greatly appreciated.
Dan