Shortening cycle time of pump with dole valve

[vic4news]

Hi. I have a 400’ well that was drilled 24 years ago. It only produced 2 gpm. A 5 or 7 gpm submersible pump was installed. We are in a drought and ran the well dry which burned out the pump.

The well company replaced the pump with a 10 gpm pump, which I resisted, but was talked into. Anyway the drawdown of my current tank is 13 gpm, but I would like a longer pump cycle time.

My current plan is to install a new pressure switch with a low pressure cut off to prevent a dry well from burning out the new pump, but I would like to reduce the cycle time and hopefully get 24+ years from the new pump.

The new pump is a FPS 3200 series, 1 HP, 10 gpm. Model 10FRD1S4-2W230

I plan to install a larger tank if I have the room, but am considering a dole valve as well and have a couple questions.

1. Would a 5 gpm dole valve work ok with this pump? What about a 3 gpm valve?
2. I heard they are noisy. The tank is in the basement. How much noise do they make and could I hear it upstairs?

Vic

 

[Ballvalve]

Resistance is futile. At least to a pump guy that want's to get rid of one he has. Bad choice, so do the dole valve the auto off switch and perhaps a Franklin pump protector too. I have a 1 hp pump at my house that I set 34 years ago and never pulled since. Its a Teel by Myer sold then by Graingers.

At a rental I set a Grundfos 1hp submersible 39 years ago and also never pulled yet. I matched them to the water production, although they are very strong and clean wells. Hard rock, surface to bottom.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Valveman]

Without a Dole valve you can use as much water as you want, as long as you don't run it too long and pump the well dry. With a Dole valve you will be limited to the 5 GPM from the start. Taking a shower and someone flushing a toilet will be enough that nobody gets anything but scalded.

A Cycle Stop Valve works like a variable Dole valve. If you want more water the CSV will open up and give it to you. But when you are irrigating and trying not to pump the well dry, just use 5 GPM worth of sprinklers, and the CSV will turn into a 5 GPM flow control valve.

Also the low pressure cut off switch gives lot so nuisance trips and doesn't do a good job of protecting the pump from running dry. A Cycle Sensor looks at amps and is much more reliable and doesn't give nuisance trips.

 

[Ballvalve]

Without a Dole valve you can use as much water as you want, as long as you don't run it too long and pump the well dry. With a Dole valve you will be limited to the 5 GPM from the start. Taking a shower and someone flushing a toilet will be enough that nobody gets anything but scalded.

A Cycle Stop Valve works like a variable Dole valve. If you want more water the CSV will open up and give it to you. But when you are irrigating and trying not to pump the well dry, just use 5 GPM worth of sprinklers, and the CSV will turn into a 5 GPM flow control valve.

Also the low pressure cut off switch gives lot so nuisance trips and doesn't do a good job of protecting the pump from running dry. A Cycle Sensor looks at amps and is much more reliable and doesn't give nuisance trips.

https://thepumpwarehouse.com/shop/symcom-pumpsaver-232-insider-pump-protection/ What do you think of this pump saver? just saw it for the first time.

 

[Valveman]

Symcom has been around for a long time. Those devices work fairly well as long as you don't have a Dole valve or a CSV. They look for a 25% drop in amps to determine dry well conditions, and the calibration knob doesn't give much adjustment. When restricting the pumps flow with a Dole valve, ball valve, or even a CSV the amps usually drop more than 25%. This causes the protector to shut the pump off when it should not. There are many devices on the market like this, which is why we had to make our Cycle Sensor, as none of the others are adjustable enough to work with a CSV or most flow restricting devices.