Where to place the main valve

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This is a random question?
Our building has a main line and every unit ties into the main 1 1/4" line in their garage location.
I will be tying into the main, not at my unit's original location which is inconveniently right in the dead smack middle of the garage.
My new location will be closer to the side of the garage wall.
Well my question is:
I have to tie in and then run 15' of 1" pipe straight back along the wall.
This means I need 10' run and then a 5' run of straight pipe. ( I can only get 10' sections so this is what I have to work with)
So instead of a main valve at the main tie in reducer tee, then 10' of pipe then a coupling then 5' of pipe. I want to use the main shut off valve as the coupling at the end of the initial 10' run and then add the 5' run. So swap the coupler with the main valve. So like this...Reducer tee at the main --> 10' of pipe, main shut off to the unit--> 5' more of pipe.
Is is ok if my shut off is not right at the tie in and instead 10' away.
Again maybe a dumb question?
I suppose pin hole leaks or something in the straight 10' section means I turn of the whole building. I can do that. Placing the Main valve closer to my water softener and making it convenient and more accessible seems good in my head, but my head has wood rot and I need to ask people that actually know what they are doing.
Is there a code or something that says the shut off has to be as close as possible to the tie in?
Thanks for your thoughts.
 

Jeff H Young

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So you could have a tee at the main and then a short piece of pipe then the valve but instead you want a 5 foot with no additional joints. Actualy your saving a coupling on your side of the main. I cant see a problem moving the valve 4.5 foot away . its acsessable, and close enough and not signifigantly differant . I think its fine
 
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I think its fine
OK thanks Jeff
To explain this again another way.
Instead of the main valve going an inch from the tie it, the main valve would be 10' away from the tie in. Yes this saves me one less joint to sweat and moves the location of the valve from entry point to 10' further way next to water softener.
 

Bannerman

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Locating the main shut-off as close as possible to where the water service enters your unit means having the ability to anytime stop leakage flow anywhere a leak may occur within your unit. A leak occurring in the 10' extension before your unit's main shut -off valve will mean shutting-off flow to all units until repairs are possible.

You mention the current inconvenient location, but realistically, how often will you be accessing that valve? If you want a more convenient location for regular use, there is no reason you can't install an additional isolation valve further downstream, leaving the original main shut-off valve at its current location if needed for a pipe failure close to the entry location.
 
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Locating the main shut-off as close as possible to where the water service enters your unit means having the ability to anytime stop leakage flow anywhere a leak may occur within your unit. .

Yes this is everything going through my head right now. You are very convincing.
 

Brad Littlejohn

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Can I located the shutoff behind an access panel? I am replumbing the house. Current setup is the water shut off is in the back of the closet and is a red wheel handle. I would like to remove it and install a ball valve shut off with a pressure reducing valve in a box with an access door and mark it " Main Water Shutoff". Is that legal (aka Code)? (the old pressure reduction valve is in the crawl space.)
 

Jeff H Young

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Code wont prevent you from having the prv or shutoff accesable in a box. I dont know the legalitys of "your building" condo, co op , apartment , but it doesent sound like what I call a" house" or what work you are permited to perform on the property. that would be your job to findout.
 
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The Red Wheel handle is a gate valve and replacing it to a ball valve and moving it behind an access panel is smart and is common.
Everything upstream to the PRV in the crawl space will be at full city pressure until it hits your new PRV inside you access panel. Perhaps the PRV is somewhere that if it fails it would flood under the house rather then in the framing or in the access panel at full city pressure.
You must have another city shut off valve outside maybe in the sidewalk, upstream from the PRV. As that would need to be shutoff to replace the PRV. Sometimes the PRV is close to the city shutoff valve rather in the house. Reducing the pressure /stress to your house plumping before it goes into the home plumbing and crawl space may be what was being considered in you situation? You want to consider keeping your PRV out of the house or panel to reduce pressure on as much of your plumbing as possible.
City Shutoff in sidewalk -> PressReduceValve------------->House shutoff.
 

Reach4

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Code wont prevent you from having the prv or shutoff accesable in a box.
In many areas, crawl spaces are common in houses without basements, and PRVs are not.

Bob, I think you could keep the current valve, and have the new ball valve in series.
 

Brad Littlejohn

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The current setup is city shutoff>>>>>> house gate valve >>>>>> PRV. I want to do the samething city>>>house>>>PRV but, I was going to put the shutoff and PRV in the same box. The PRV has a nice gauge on it and it would be nice to see water pressure. But, I doubt I would ever have to adjust it.
 

Reach4

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The current setup is city shutoff>>>>>> house gate valve >>>>>> PRV. I want to do the samething city>>>house>>>PRV but, I was going to put the shutoff and PRV in the same box. The PRV has a nice gauge on it and it would be nice to see water pressure. But, I doubt I would ever have to adjust it.
Adjusting it will sometimes go along with replacing it or rebuilding it.

Also, many, if not most, PRVs have a screen (mesh) that may need cleaning.

Many times the water for outside hose spigots doesn't pass through the PRV.
 

Brad Littlejohn

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Also, I putting in a new main line with PEX-b 1". It is about 30" in the ground same as the old one.

Should I snake it a litte back and forth in the tench to give room to expand and contract?

It is only 50 ft. In North Carolina, the frost line is only 9" so, code is 12". I do not think that the ground temp would change at 30" but, the water temp from the city between winter and summer might.
 

Jeff H Young

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This is confusing did somebody hijack a thread? isnt this about Bob from accounting now someone else is sudenly talking about underground?
 

Brad Littlejohn

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Thanks for the doc. I am going to read in depth. But, the first thing that stands out, is the issue with burying it. I dug most of it with a hand shovel. But, I used a power washer to get to the old pipe and put the new pipe deeper. So, the new pipe is sitting mud in some sections. Do I need to put drainage rock under it? I know the ground is going to settle over the years. But, I was just going to add more dirt over time to keep level. Also, I pulled the pipe through a foundation wall so, there are a some scrapes on the first few feet of pipe. Do I need to replace that section? I have more pipe in the crawl space that I can pull through.

This 1" Pex seems very strong and can handle it. But, I want to do the project right.

Also, It talks about sleveing the part or the pipe that is in the foundation wall. I guess to protect it from the rough concrete. The pipe is a tight fit. Could I use expanding foam or a sleve made out of sheet metal. Or is it nessary?
 
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