Fleck 5600SXT Pre Pre Install Questions

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Jsmallberries

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Due diligence, homework ducks in a row..........

Fleck 5600SXT Digital Metered Valve, tank is approximately 10" x 54" 48K, 10% cross linked resin
I went with the 3/4" steel bypass(thought it might be more durable) The incoming supply line is 3/4 " CPVC

What's the best way to connect the in-coming supply to the stainless bypass? type of metal to avoid galvanic corrosion, flex connectors?

Some online tutorials recommend leaving out certain parts, the top filter basket in resin tank and the small metal screen/sleeve in connection to the brine tank, See pics. Is there something to that?
 

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Jsmallberries

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So no to the small metal screen that goes into the brine hose at the controller. Been told it clogs too easily and there is alrasdy a screen internally that gets back washed during regeneration.

IMHO The by pass valve adds too much weight to the back which is already loosely held and extended out. Seems like a poor design
 

Reach4

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IMHO The by pass valve adds too much weight to the back which is already loosely held and extended out. Seems like a poor design
Not loosely held. There are clips that you screw in that hold the pieces together fine. Time-tested. I don't know the ideal torque for the screws.

Now if you use your worries to avoid putting stress on the installed unit, great.

When you install something with o-rings or rubber seals, it is good to apply a very light coat of silicone grease (not silicone sealant or adhesive).

Also, worry about cross-threading on the way in. What pipe do you intend to use? CPVC? Copper? Will you use flex connectors?
 
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Jsmallberries

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When adding the stainless steel bypass, seemed like too much weight. It appears lightly connected and the side brackets and screws don't help as the weight is pulling down, then trying to tighten the supply lines seemed unsafe. I used a large pipe wrench to stabilize the the by pass from torquing as the supply lines were tightened. All good, no leaks,now if I can figure out how to program the sucker.....
 

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Bannerman

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The design is as you have assembled with the weight supported by the male and female fittings. The side clips only prevent the components from being pulled apart.

Most systems now use the Noryl bypass valve which is lighter in weight. There is no durability issue as Noryl is the same composite material used for the control valve. If you have a concern with supporting the weight, perhaps place a wood or plastic block between the tank dome and the bypass valve.

With regard to programming, post a full description of your system and water conditions so we may assist.
 
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Jsmallberries

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Fleck 5600sxt 10% cross linked resin, 48,000. Main resin tank is approximately 10" x 54", (From sticker on control head - injector 1, drain flow 2.4 GPM. Municipal water supply. hardness 13, 3 Adults average use 65 gallon each per day.

Do I need to do a manual regeneration if changing any of settings?
What would give me a good balance?
btw, on the first manual recharge, the water was coming out with good pressure into the laundry sink, 50 feet away
Current Settings.......
DF -Gal
VT - DF-1B
CT - FD
NT -C - 35
H - 14
RS - ST
SF - 15
DO - 14
BW - 10
BD - 60
RR - 12
BRINE FILL 5
FM T0.7
 

Reach4

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System info (not programmed)
salt lb/cuft = 7 ; A choice ( efficiency vs capacity)
BLFC = 0.5 ; Brine Refill rate GPM
cubic ft resin = 1.5 ; ft3 resin = (nominal grains)/32,000
Compensated hardness = 14 ; including any compensation
People = 3.25 ; gallons affects reserve calc
Estimated gal/day = 195 ; 60 gal per person typical calc
Estimated days/regen = 12.1 ; Computed days including reserve

Fleck 5600SXT Settings:
DF = Gal ; Units
VT = dF1b ; Downflw/, Single Backwash, black cam
CT = Fd ; Meter Delayed regen trigger
NT = 1 ; Number of tanks
C = 33.9 ; capacity in 1000 grains
H = 14 ; Hardness-- compensate if needed
RS = rc ; rc says use gallons vs percent
RC = 195 ; Reserve capacity gallons
DO = 30 ; Day Override (28 to 30 if no iron)
RT = 2:00 ; Regen time (default 2 AM)
BW = 5 ; Backwash (minutes)
Bd = 60 ; Brine draw minutes
RR = 5 ; Rapid Rinse minutes
BF = 7 ; Brine fill minutes
FM = P0.7 ; since you have paddlewheel. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?attachments/img_fleck5600sxt_flow-png.31592/

Revised based on number from https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/help-for-programming-fleck-5810.82673/#post-595983
BLFC = 0.5
cubic ft resin = 1.5

Alternative C and BF pairs:
lb/cuft ; C= ; BF=
5.000 ; 28.7 ; 5 ;less softeness, less salt
6.000 ; 31.5 ; 6
7.000 ; 33.9 ; 7 ;upgrade from your 5
8.000 ; 36.0 ; 8 ;softer still
9.000 ; 37.7 ; 9
10.000 ; 39.3 ; 10
11.000 ; 40.6 ; 11 ; not as salt-efficient
 
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Jsmallberries

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So I have to PO.7 based on the diagram you included(see photo) So I need to change from T to P setting?
So no iron so change day over ride to 28?
Better to change from 35,000 cap to 33.9?

Not sure I understand, based on my current setting and site conditions, what is recommended
 

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Jsmallberries

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Thanks, so should I do a manual regeneration after making the adjustments?

Is the turbine better then the paddle wheel?

I paid extra for the stainless steel bypass, I once had a PVC main shut off warp from the heat in FL garage, that stuck in my mind, when the polymer shut off would have been fine, so I added cost and install complexity for no reason, oh well
 

Reach4

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Thanks, so should I do a manual regeneration after making the adjustments?
Look at the displayed gallons. After making an adjustment, that will probably reset. Whether to do a manual regen or wait is up to you. It is certainly easy. But otherwise you could add an extra gallon of water to the brine tank, and regen in maybe a week.

Is the turbine better then the paddle wheel?
Paddlewheel costs more. Less likely to be stopped by debris.

Stainless bypass works fine. Harder to turn. Also, the plastic one lets you do more than just bypass or not.
 
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