Is 1/2" copper stub out enough to connect to?

Users who are viewing this thread

tokun

New Member
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
California
My main water line is pretty hard to access. I can only get at it through a narrow space between two slabs of concrete. As a result I took off more of the copper stub out than I intended. There is only 1/2" remaining that is accessible. My plan was to connect PEX to it, but this isn't feasible anymore. Is there another way I can connect to the pipe without cutting into the concrete?
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,858
Reaction score
4,428
Points
113
Location
IL
I am not sure what you are describing. Attaching by soldering copper may be your best choice. How about a photo showing the copper you can access, and at least 3 inches around it in each direction.


If nothing else, dig outside, and bring in a new pipe into the house.
 

Fitter30

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,347
Reaction score
795
Points
113
Location
Peace valley missouri
Tin the piece of copper coming from the wall. With a clean male pipe adaptor flux everything up feed solder to the inside of the adaptor then use a screwed ball valve . Just remember use a face shield, gloves and long sleeves because concrete will pop when heated. Chisel out around the stub for a better joint with more exposed pipe.
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,770
Reaction score
1,190
Points
113
Location
New England
You should install any fitting so that the pipe gets bottomed out in the socket. Now, will it be strong enough and water tight if it's not? Usually, yes, but it's hard to get solder there...you may need to add solder from the other side of the coupler, but that is tougher to get everything done properly and then get the other end soldered, too. If the pipe is in contact with the concrete, that will act like a big heat sink, and it will be really tough to get the pipe up to temp to ensure the solder will flow properly. It would be easy to end up with a cold solder joint. Since you won't be able to really see the other end well, it will be hard to get a good visual inspection of the newly soldered joint.

A compression fitting also must be bottomed out in the socket, and 1/2" is probably too little sticking out as the compression nut will stick out more until it is tightened, preventing you from getting the valve bottomed, and once you start to tighten it, you may not be able to move it to eventually get it there.

What I might try is to get a diamond hole saw a bit bigger than the pipe and use it to make a cut around the pipe. You should then be able to probably chip out the cement around it.

If it really is only 1/2", something like a Sharkbite won't work.

You may need to repair from outside and stick new stuff through the wall.
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,893
Reaction score
2,221
Points
113
Location
92346
Tin the piece of copper coming from the wall. With a clean male pipe adaptor flux everything up feed solder to the inside of the adaptor then use a screwed ball valve . Just remember use a face shield, gloves and long sleeves because concrete will pop when heated. Chisel out around the stub for a better joint with more exposed pipe.

perfect fix fitter 30! a little chipping will insure fitting bottomed out and room to solder.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks