A Sharkbite is maybe the easiest solution. You will need to cut off the end soldered and then, things will work if you have enough pipe length sticking out. You will need to make sure the pipe end is cleaned of burrs and sharp edges. THen, screw one end onto the WH, and push the other end onto the pipe and you're done.
Find a plumber to do the soldering for you. 7/8 is too short for a 3/4 inch SharkBite.I have a similar problem; if I cut off the flex copper line at the cut-off valve there will only be 7/8 inch of solid copper pipe remaining. Not sure that is enough pipe to attach a sharkbite? Any suggestions?
ldon
The alternative would be to cut off the valve, too, and then rebuild. https://www.sharkbite.com/products/...ed-flexible-water-heater-connector-ball-valve The valve end would push onto the supply pipe after you cut it off, and the other end would screw onto the water heater.
Find a plumber to do the soldering for you. 7/8 is too short for a 3/4 inch SharkBite.
Trying to insert pictures, but not sure how to do that.Yes, I did consider doing that but the grounding clamp is in the way. I could move it back inside the wall, but if I use a sharkbite fitting would I then have broken continuity for the ground to the heater?
Ask a neighbor or two for soldering advice if you will solder.I did talk to a plumper and he will solder a copper male fitting to each line for $150. That's acceptable to me, but I have to get a homeowner's permit from the city to install the water heater and the permit does not allow me to get help from anyone. I must do all of the work myself if I use a homeowner's permit.
This is awkward, but...
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