Choosing a softener, and maybe an iron filter

[Dan Roscigno]

Hi Folks,
I am looking for some advice. I had a Fleck 5600SXT in the last house. I have a new (built in 1939, but new to me) house and it is on city water. I need to choose a softener.
Details:

• Three people
• 13 grains hardness (Hach 5-B test).
• 0.3ppm iron. There is some staining and powdery rust in one of the toilet tanks.
• Chlorine 1.2 ppm
• TDS 400 microsiemens
• Chloride 108 ppm
• Navien tankless water heater

The line after the meter is 3/4"

My first question is: Should I have an iron filter before the softener? The 5810 manual states:

Condition of existing plumbing should be free from lime and iron buildup. Piping that is built up heavily with lime and/or iron should be replaced. If piping is clogged with iron, a separate iron filter unit should be installed ahead of the water softener.
​

My second question is: Which media should I buy? I think I read 10% crosslink when there is Chlorine in the water.

My nephew is a plumber and will install.

Thanks very much!
Dan

 

[Dan Roscigno]

Purolite says that SST60 resin removes iron better.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

You would want a 1.5 cubic ft "48000 grain" softener. Just think of that as a convention indicating 1.5 cuft of resin. Never calculate with the 48000 number.

With 0.3 ppm iron, I would expect the toilet tanks to be red with rust. So maybe your test for iron is a little off.

If the softener is actually treating 0.3 iron, you would want to treat the resin periodically with citric acid or Iron Out. Expect to clean the softener injector and screen every few years. If you have no H2S smell, I would think you would be OK with just the softener.

While plumbing, it is good to add a boiler drain after and maybe before the softener. That lets you sample water, and mount a GHT pressure gauge if you want at some point.

I would put a whole house cartridge filter in place. Before or after the softener? I am not sure. After catches broken softener resin. I would go 4.5x20 inch on the cartridge.

 

[Dan Roscigno]

Thanks @Reach4 . I had planned on filters before and after, but never thought about drains or gauges. I think that is a great idea. Thanks!!

I am planning to look into the iron test.

 

[Bannerman]

Chlorine will oxidize ferrous iron, converting it to ferric iron which is a solid. If there are any iron solids that remain in the water that enters your home, they maybe removed with a simple sediment filter and will not place any iron load on the softener.

You may wish to consider a back washing carbon filter located before the softener. Less expensive regular 8% cross-link resin can then be used as the carbon media will remove chlorine with the added benefit of reducing/removing disinfection by-products such as THMs, HAAs, etc.

 

[Dan Roscigno]

Thanks @Bannerman

If I understand correctly, since there is residual Chlorine in the water (1.2ppm), then even though I do not see stains the iron should be solid and a Big Blue before the softener will take care of the iron.

But, I still need a backwashing carbon filter to get the chlorine etc.

So, I might end up with:
Sediment filter for iron, etc.
Backwashing carbon for Chlorine etc.
Softener
Another sediment filter to catch resin etc.

Sound right?

 

[Reach4]

So, I might end up with:
Sediment filter for iron, etc.
Backwashing carbon for Chlorine etc.
Softener
Another sediment filter to catch resin etc.

Sound right?[/QUOTE]

How are you planning to inject chlorine? With a proportional injection after the pressure tank? No mixing/contact tank following the injection?

 

[Bannerman]

How are you planning to inject chlorine?

The water is supplied by the city and already contains 1.2ppm chlorine when tested at Dan's location.

 

[Bannerman]

even though I do not see stains the iron should be solid and a Big Blue before the softener will take care of the iron.

Do you actually see any solid iron (rust particles) in your water?

Iron solids will typically precipitate-out within the distribution system and so most water subscribers will receive water that is fairly free of visual sediment. Often, the only debris observed is when it is disturbed such as when the city flushes water mains using fire hydrants.

 

[Reach4]

The water is supplied by the city and already contains 1.2ppm chlorine when tested at Dan's location.

Missed that. Yep, that 0.3 ppm iron test was bad if it was a home test, or not relevant if it was at the water treatment plant. Iron will have been pretty much settled out before reaching Dan's house.

 

[Bannerman]

The other possibility with regards to the amount of iron tested is iron plumbing. Due to the age of the home, some of the plumbing may be original and contain sections of iron pipe and fittings.

 

[Dan Roscigno]

I found iron in one of the bathrooms tonight. I had not checked one of the toilets, and sure enough there is a pile of rust powder in one of them. So, I am happy that I will be able to catch it with a sediment filter before the softener. Sorry for the false information!

 

[Bannerman]

I am happy that I will be able to catch it with a sediment filter before the softener.

Are we to assume there is no iron/galvanized plumbing installed anywhere in your circa 1939 home?

You might be interested in post #23 in this thread: https://terrylove.com/forums/index....-soft-water-always-feel-slippery.83160/page-2

 

[Dan Roscigno]

Thanks, l read that thread and will read it again

The walls were redone, new boiler, new water heater, new appliances, etc.

But, they did not put in a softener.

I don't know. If I was doing all the work they did, I would have replaced any galvanized and added a softener. Maybe they left some.

For drinking water I have an RO that I remineralize. That was my first step.