Water Heater Heat Trap

[go_hercules]

Okay, the latest problem. I installed an expansion tank on my existing water heater. No problem, it works fine. The problem is that I switched from corrugated copper lines to corrugated stainless lines. The old copper lines were a little smaller inside diameter which meant that the rubber washers had a smaller inside diameter than the rubber washers on the corrugated stainless. Now the problem is that the nipples from the tank have blue plastic heat traps which the washer must seat against. Well the larger hole in the stainless line rubber washers doesn't really cover up a lot of the heat trap face so I am getting some weeping from there. Snugged a little and a little more but still barely weeping. Any suggestions on this one? Thanks.

 

[Reach4]

If snugging further did not do it, I think I would unscrew the leaking connector, dry the gasket, inspect the gasket for defects, lightly put some silicone plumbing grease on the gasket and the thread. Then tighten it back into place. If the gasket is removable, I would lube both sides. The grease on the gasket lets the lubricated gasket flow on a micro level to better fill tiny imperfections. The bit of grease on the threads lets you get more compression with the same amount of torque.


https://www.danco.com/product/0-5-oz-silicone-faucet-grease/ Danco 88693 gives you plenty for a few uses. I have a 5.3 ounce tube of Molykote 111, which is probably a lifetime supply.

 

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[Plumber69]

Ive tried the flex lines on tanks before and had the same issue

 

[James Henry]

If all else fails try to find the correct size washers with a smaller inside diameter hole.

 

[go_hercules]

Yeah, I thought of the smaller I.D. washers but I'll need to make sure there's even enough of a "flange" on the end of the stainless tube to seat on. Of course the water ran down the nipple into the insulation under the sheet metal top, so now when I wipe it to check for weeping I get water from that. It's a Bradford White with the idiotic nipples with barely any thread sticking out the top. If I ever decide to change the dip tube or anode rod on this it's going to be a pain. Don't even know how I would tighten a new one in (unless the replacement nipple portion is a lot longer).

 

[Reach4]

Some people pull out heat traps for other reasons.

 

[go_hercules]

I did notice that even with the trap in place, the cold water supply gets pretty warm for about a foot. I guess maybe it would get even warmer without it ???? I wonder if they really do anything at all.

 

[Sylvan]

I always remove the heat trap and install a 27" loop on the CW supply to prevent stratification of hot molecules entering the CW supply

 

[James Henry]

I always remove the heat trap and install a 27" loop on the CW supply to prevent stratification of hot molecules entering the CW supply

Could you be more precise?

 

[Reach4]

https://www.siouxchief.com/products/supply/specialized-supply/sweat/loops/heat-trap is a pre-made version, but it would be smaller than 27 inches I think.

 

[Sylvan]

Check out holby tempering valve and notice the 27" loop on the CW supply

Bring the cold water supply down at least 27 " then back up to the inlet U shape