Johnny-Canuck
Member
I originally installed my kitchen about 45 years ago as a DIYer when I used to be young and relatively limber. Our layout had a "corner sink" and at the time I tried to design the plumbing under the sink to maximize the available space as much possible (because there isn't much to begin with).
45 years later I'm no longer young and limber so when we decided to do a kitchen "facelift" project, I opted for a company that offered a basic "facelift" contract option. (By "facelift" I simply mean 1) no changes to physical layout of our existing cabinetry 2) simply paint the faces of our original cabinets and their oak framed doors 3) put a thin granite "veneer" on top of our old laminate countertops.
The last bit of the countertop installation job was for a plumber to come in and connect our new sink (single bowl), faucet (single hole) and dishwasher drain … but obviously he had to start from the original base I created 45 years ago and any additional hacks I did over the years.
The plumber did the job and everything is functional, but now I'd like to try to improve things to try to "maximize" the available storage space in the cabinet, by minimizing the space taken by the plumbing as much as possible.
I'm attaching shots of the reworked area I currently have under our "corner sink" to show what I mean.
1. an obvious improvement would be the connection from the DISHWASHER to the DRAIN.
The plumber installed a connection for the DISHWASHER to the new SINK DRAIN setup, but he re-used a hack that I had previously installed. The white corrugated tubing, that used to connect the DISHWASHER to a GARBERATOR that I've deleted from our new setup. I think the loop he put in this white tubing is probably for code reasons to prevent backflow of waste water into the DISHWASHER, but I think it's actually redundant because I originally installed a "high drain loop" between the DISHWASHER and the now deleted GARBERATOR. The 1/2" copper pipe you see at the top runs across the back of a cabinet beside the sink and then drops down to the DISHWASHER drain where the DISHWASHER is, so I think this is equivalent to a "high drain loop" that a DISHWASHER should have.
Assuming this makes sense, what's the neatest way to connect the 1/2" copper pipe to the DISHWASHER ADAPTER that's part of the SINK DRAIN? (This would allow me to totally eliminate the white corrugated tubing).
See this picture.
2. In this next picture, you can again see the lazy-susan turntable on the floor of the cabinet, but the ABS pipe that runs horizontally to the drain at the back wall is aimed left of the center point of the lazy-susan.
Since this piece is connected by couplings at the back wall end and on a flexible joint at the P-TRAP end … I think I should be able to replace and lengthen this piece and turn it so it would at least be aligned closer to the center of the lazy-susan. Does that seem do-able?
Also, in this picture, it doesn't seem to me there's any way that I could raise the height of the bottom of the P-TRAP much if at all, but if anybody sees a way I'd appreciate any suggestion.
This angle shows more clearly what I mean by the center of the lazy-susan ... see the silver screw and washer it spins on. You can see the ABS drain pieces are 4 or 5" left of the pivot point of the lazy-susan.
3. Finally, the cheap "cheater vent" you see in the "vent stack" on the back wall, is there because 45 years ago, when we bought the house there was no vent and I had no reasonable way to properly vent it when I originally installed the kitchen. The sink is draining well and quickly now as it is … with a gurgling sound at the very end. Would installing a better "cheater vent" (an "Air Admittance Valve") gain me anything?
Thanks for anyone's thoughts.
45 years later I'm no longer young and limber so when we decided to do a kitchen "facelift" project, I opted for a company that offered a basic "facelift" contract option. (By "facelift" I simply mean 1) no changes to physical layout of our existing cabinetry 2) simply paint the faces of our original cabinets and their oak framed doors 3) put a thin granite "veneer" on top of our old laminate countertops.
The last bit of the countertop installation job was for a plumber to come in and connect our new sink (single bowl), faucet (single hole) and dishwasher drain … but obviously he had to start from the original base I created 45 years ago and any additional hacks I did over the years.
The plumber did the job and everything is functional, but now I'd like to try to improve things to try to "maximize" the available storage space in the cabinet, by minimizing the space taken by the plumbing as much as possible.
I'm attaching shots of the reworked area I currently have under our "corner sink" to show what I mean.
1. an obvious improvement would be the connection from the DISHWASHER to the DRAIN.
The plumber installed a connection for the DISHWASHER to the new SINK DRAIN setup, but he re-used a hack that I had previously installed. The white corrugated tubing, that used to connect the DISHWASHER to a GARBERATOR that I've deleted from our new setup. I think the loop he put in this white tubing is probably for code reasons to prevent backflow of waste water into the DISHWASHER, but I think it's actually redundant because I originally installed a "high drain loop" between the DISHWASHER and the now deleted GARBERATOR. The 1/2" copper pipe you see at the top runs across the back of a cabinet beside the sink and then drops down to the DISHWASHER drain where the DISHWASHER is, so I think this is equivalent to a "high drain loop" that a DISHWASHER should have.
Assuming this makes sense, what's the neatest way to connect the 1/2" copper pipe to the DISHWASHER ADAPTER that's part of the SINK DRAIN? (This would allow me to totally eliminate the white corrugated tubing).
See this picture.
2. In this next picture, you can again see the lazy-susan turntable on the floor of the cabinet, but the ABS pipe that runs horizontally to the drain at the back wall is aimed left of the center point of the lazy-susan.
Since this piece is connected by couplings at the back wall end and on a flexible joint at the P-TRAP end … I think I should be able to replace and lengthen this piece and turn it so it would at least be aligned closer to the center of the lazy-susan. Does that seem do-able?
Also, in this picture, it doesn't seem to me there's any way that I could raise the height of the bottom of the P-TRAP much if at all, but if anybody sees a way I'd appreciate any suggestion.
This angle shows more clearly what I mean by the center of the lazy-susan ... see the silver screw and washer it spins on. You can see the ABS drain pieces are 4 or 5" left of the pivot point of the lazy-susan.
3. Finally, the cheap "cheater vent" you see in the "vent stack" on the back wall, is there because 45 years ago, when we bought the house there was no vent and I had no reasonable way to properly vent it when I originally installed the kitchen. The sink is draining well and quickly now as it is … with a gurgling sound at the very end. Would installing a better "cheater vent" (an "Air Admittance Valve") gain me anything?
Thanks for anyone's thoughts.
