Oatey washer shut off valve

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DIYER39

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Oatey hot valve does not shut off anymore and I would like to replace it. I do not know if it unscrews or is sweated on under the wall box. Nut on the bottom appears to just secure the valve to the plastic box, but I could be wrong. Do plumbers usually have to cut out the whole box just to replace these valves or is this pretty easy to twist off? Pictures attached. Any advice is appreciated.

1.jpg

2.jpg
 

Terry

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That looks like it's threading on there. As to whether you can get the correct replacement, it's hard to say. The more recent valves look different than yours.
 

DIYER39

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I understand. This valve is probably 15 years old but maybe Ill figure something out or find one online. Does that mean the valve pretty much just screws into the hex nut on the bottom? I would just need to hold the bottom nut and turn the valve out?
 

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I understand. This valve is probably 15 years old but maybe Ill figure something out or find one online. Does that mean the valve pretty much just screws into the hex nut on the bottom? I would just need to hold the bottom nut and turn the valve out?

I'm guessing that it's a 1/2" iron pipe thread. Some of those are.
I would check with them and ask.
https://www.oatey.com/Contact
Phone : 800-321-9532 US & CANADA
 

DIYER39

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I just wanted to say thank you Terry for the advice. I needed another set of hands to break it loose but the replacement went smoothly.
 

JerryR

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I just wanted to say thank you Terry for the advice. I needed another set of hands to break it loose but the replacement went smoothly.

DIYER39,

Are you saying that the Home Depot was able to be used to thread into the female portion of the old valve when unscrewed?

In the Q&A section of Home Depot for this valve the Manufacture states the valve cannot be separated from the extension .

I have the same valve as you that still passes water when it’s tired to off position. Oatley doesn’t sell a replacement valve that screws in. If the HD valve works I’ll use that.

Jerry

n7QIISzl.jpg
 
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DIYER39

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I ended up using an $8 American Valve from Lowes but Im pretty sure the Everbilt would work too. Have a Lowes nearby? Attached are a few pics for reference. I used 3 wraps of teflon tape to the sky, but as you can see the old one was not in there very deep. Might not look perfect but it works just fine. My advice is to change the cold valve too, unless your lazy like me :)
1.jpg
2.jpg
 

JerryR

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I may just call Oatey and see if they will sell me a valve in your lower picture. It would be a lot easier than opening up the wall and sweating new valves on the copper.

From your picture, the straight non-taper on the longer threaded shaft does not match what appears to be tapered threads of the removed valve.
 

DIYER39

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I may just call Oatey and see if they will sell me a valve in your lower picture. It would be a lot easier than opening up the wall and sweating new valves on the copper.

From your picture, the straight non-taper on the longer threaded shaft does not match what appears to be tapered threads of the removed valve.

Ya, calling Oatey is probably the safest thing to do. When it comes to replacement parts, Im not sure you will get much advice on using anything that is less than ideal anyway. Nothing wrong with being cautious.
 

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Ya, calling Oatey is probably the safest thing to do. When it comes to replacement parts, Im not sure you will get much advice on using anything that is less than ideal anyway. Nothing wrong with being cautious.

I finally got around to call Oatey. They said unfortunately my only option is to open the wall and install a new sweated valve. The valves were changed about 7 years ago to new style.

I’ll continue to monitor eBay and hopefully someone has new/old stock for sale with old style valve.
 

DIYER39

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I finally got around to call Oatey. They said unfortunately my only option is to open the wall and install a new sweated valve. The valves were changed about 7 years ago to new style.

I’ll continue to monitor eBay and hopefully someone has new/old stock for sale with old style valve.

These should work. Few bucks more for lead free.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Dahl-22...-Male-Hose-Boiler-Drain-Pack-of-2-Rough-Brass

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Dahl-62...gle-Hose-Boiler-Drain-Valve-LF-Brass-Pkg-of-2
 
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DIYER39

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Nice work Jerry. Looks great. I would not be comfortable putting a sharkbite inside the wall, but your comfort level is all that matters. Canadian valves arrived lightning fast today so I just popped them in a few minutes ago. Lowes straight thread valve was doing great but wife was not happy with the location of the handle and how it looked :). Only took me a few minutes anyway.
1.jpg
2.jpg
 

Terry

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Those shutoffs with the straight threads are meant to be soldered.
I have used female adapters on them, but I did get a call back too on one. After that I only soldered them.
I hope it works for you. :)

lOuvmTgl.jpg
 

JerryR

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Nice work Jerry. Looks great. I would not be comfortable putting a sharkbite inside the wall, but your comfort level is all that matters. Canadian valves arrived lightning fast today so I just popped them in a few minutes ago. Lowes straight thread valve was doing great but wife was not happy with the location of the handle and how it looked :). Only took me a few minutes anyway. View attachment 53940 View attachment 53941

Nice. Do you have a source for the Canadian Valves?

Sharkbites are certified for in the wall installation. In fact Oatey sells a washing machine box with Sharkbites so they seem to have faith in them also.
https://www.oatey.com/ASSETS/DOCUMENTS/ITEMS/EN/LCS948C_QuadtroSellSheet_032916.pdf

Based on Terry’s posting I’ll keep the wall open for a bit to monitor for potential leaks.

I didn’t want to sweat inside the wall for concern of fire in the wall. I may remove the valve and sweat a short copper stub on it and then use a 1/2” Sharkbite coupling to connect it to the existing copper. That way it eliminates fire concern.
 

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Never mind. I see the link to the Canadian Valves. They’re Dahl Valves. Excellent company. I replaced 19 angle stop valves in my home with Dahl 1/4 turn Valves.

In fact I have an account with SupplyHouse.com.

Jerry
 

JerryR

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Those shutoffs with the straight threads are meant to be soldered.
I have used female adapters on them, but I did get a call back too on one. After that I only soldered them.
I hope it works for you. :)

lOuvmTgl.jpg

Terry,

Thanks for the posting.

I will probably redo the hot valve connection by sweating a stub on the valve and connecting it to the existing 1/2” copper with either a Sharkbite or copper compression coupling to eliminate the straig thread to tapered thread issue. . I’m not comfortable using a torch inside a wall due to fire potential.

If you had to choose, which coupling would you use inside a wall? Sharkbite or Compression? Soldering is not an option for me.

Jerry

Q0VoH18l.jpg
CoCq31ol.jpg
 
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Reach4

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Was there a reason not to just use a hose cutoff valve screwed on the existing valve?
Jerry's install is nicer looking. It also has one less potential leak point at a GH connection. The valve is probably easier to operate too.

That suggestion of yours would have been a whole lot less work.
 
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