Help Needed with main drain replacemnt

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Jsmallberries

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On my newly installed Rheem 50 gallon gas water heater XG50T12DM40VO, while it came with a brass drain, gate valve I guess it's called, I decided to replace it with a brass ball valve for future maintenance flushes. for the larger opening it affords

So I drained the 50 gallon tank, first off, since it's on a stand,and it's a single story residence, it wasn't draining well, that,s with a couple of hot water valves open inside so I lifted the TPR valve lever up and was able to drain it fairly quickly, supply water was off and therm was down as low as it could go.

First question, anything wrong with using the TPR once supply is off and therm at low?

More importantly, I had no where to grab the gate valve drain from, it's right next to the control unit making access difficult, see picture. I was finally able to get a plumbers wrench on it, but it covered the entire valve with the hose attachment threads exposed . When I tried to turn it, it felt like it would break off and not turn, I stopped trying and managed damaged the exterior threads slightly.

Is this made to come off? and what tool would do it, or should I give up?
 

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Reach4

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The area I marked in yellow looks like a flat meant to be grabbed with a big open end wrench or pipe wrench or big locking pliers. Is there a parallel flat on the other side?
IMG_5.jpg
 

Jsmallberries

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Looks like the top nut of the gate valve needs to come off and to remove the plastic cover behind it to get to it. Any chance I can break it or are they made to be removed? Hell,I've already ruined the threads on the hose bib end, just afraid to break it on a larger scale

If I get it out, what type of sealant should I use on the threads of the nipple?
 

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Phog

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Reach is right, you screw the valve out with a crescent wrench (or anything that that grips) using the flats. You can also take the packing nut off, to access the flats. I wouldn't take off the plastic unless you have to. Teflon tape is fine for the threads when you install the new valve. You might need a small brass nipple and you might also be wise to install a hose adapter on the outlet side. Unless you've got some other plan in mind for flushing.
 

Reach4

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If I get it out, what type of sealant should I use on the threads of the nipple?
PTFE tape and/or pipe dope. Both is best.

You may be able to grip those flats from beneath without removing the packing nut.

I can't imagine you breaking the valve off. I am not a plumber.

There is now available a brass full flow drain valve with garden hose thread.
Rheem AP12231C-1 Overall Length (in.): 6-1/8
Rheem SP12231B Overall Length (in.): 3-3/4
Rheem AP12231B-1 Overall Length (in.): 3-3/4
 

Jsmallberries

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Will attempt a large crescent with a breaker bar, see what happens. Looking into above drain valve options, Couldn't just include that could they, way too easy, at least have the option when you purchase the WH????
What's the worst that can happen? Buy new heater, gas explosion combo.................:eek:
 
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Terry

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They spin out. Don't worry about keeping it neat and pretty. It's being tossed anyway.

water_heater_drains.jpg


This plastic one got kind of chewed up on removal.

wh-drain-brass.jpg
 
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Jsmallberries

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I found this online, see photo

However, one reviewer stated that it does not fit their Rheem WH,. Theirs requires a 3" shank. This one is 2"

How to measure what size shank?

Also being a ball valve, so I assume the curve doesn't matter as the opening is the same size as a straight run set up
 

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Reach4

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Also being a ball valve, so I assume the curve doesn't matter as the opening is the same size as a straight run set up
Not all ball valves have the same hole size.
A curve would make it harder to insert a spray wand I think.

ap12231c-1-2.jpg
Rheem AP12231C-1
 
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Jsmallberries

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Thanks reach4, that's the one I ordered. about the same price as buying separate parts at the big box store, plus one piece to screw in and it has a nice area to get a wrench on it. Got it from supplyHouse.com
 

Reach4

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Thanks reach4, that's the one I ordered. about the same price as buying separate parts at the big box store, plus one piece to screw in and it has a nice area to get a wrench on it. Got it from supplyHouse.com
I put mine together with parts before that choice was available. While you have it loose, could you see how big of a dowel or drill bit it would pass? Just curious.
 

Jsmallberries

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Here it is with a 5/8"" Dowel, still has of room but 3/4" doesn't fit, so I estimate 11/16" full straight opening. Perfect for it's intended purpose. I plan to install it later this week
 

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Jsmallberries

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Was able to use a medium sized adjustable with a breaker bar to get it to turn. The factory brass gate type valve has an odd angle to get a wrench on it, angling the wrench towards the water heater body.. Wasn't able to save it. It should be mandatory to include the full drain valve.
 

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