Midriller
Member
is it a straight shot from the pit to a basement? Or just run some temporary UF or run conduit on surface, if its in conduit there is no need to bury.
How to test wire from pressure switch to wire under ground
- Thread starter trotter13
- Start date
Users who are viewing this thread
You are considering replacing the wires underground. That may be justified. However I would isolate the wires on each end (pressure switch and pump end), and check the resistance to an earth ground, such as the conduit. If the resistance on at least 2 of the 3 measured over 500000 (500 kOhms) I would consider reusing those wires. The two that showed high resistance would become my hots.
So by bypassed the wires, I think you are saying you laid other wires across the ground. The pump did not perform with those replacement wires either.
Do you have a friend who plays with electronics? The multimeter stuff will be easy for him.
Sponsor
Paid Advertisement
Did that already. Laid temporary wire from pressure switch to well. It might be the pump too. I bought it at home depot, the box was taped like it was open before. Just before I dropped it I noticed that two wires were pinched a bit. I used the right connectors, shrink wrap and taped the hell out of it with scotch #88.
Last edited:
I hope not then I'll have fun trying to return it to H.D.Might be the problem.
so I did the continuity test with the pump in the well. GD wire to both hots one at a time beep then I put both hots together and got a beep. What that means I dont know. Should I be getting a beep ground to hot? How do I test the pump? Ohms test?
Thanks Tom
Last edited:
A beep on your meter on low-ohms range means that the resistance went below some threshold. On the one multimeter I saw a specification for, that threshold is 40 ohm. Look at the numbers to get the resistance.
That means that during that interval, there was either a dead short or low resistance. The motor windings are low enough resistance, so low resistance hot to hot would be normal. How low? Few ohms. The beep allows you to probe around, and not have to have your eyes on the multimeter as you are looking for low resistance continuity.
Resistance of ground to either hot should stay over 100kOhms
Last edited:
Should beep when checking between the two wires. But should not beep and means you have a short when checking between either hot wire and the ground.
So the pump is probably good as far as the wires go? Other wise no beep when I tied both hots together . I then should be looking at the well wire. There's new wire from pressure switch to pumps long ass wire
One of the hots are 1 the other 15.00
No! It should beep when checking between the two hot wires, and should not beep when checking between either hot wire and the ground.
So that means I've got both hot wires grounding out. Split in insulation on both hots and grounding in water?
Last edited:
Ok, just tested both wires hots together. Got a beep & 0.8 reading connected to the pump.
I made a little diagram. Red represents one hot. Black represents the other hot. Green represents the ground wire.
When you take a reading, I suggest you identify what is isolated (such as disconnected at the pressure switch or not, splice in place, or not, etc.) Also indicate where the test leads are. You have done some of that, but you want to have both types of info for each reading or set of readings.
Note that when you take readings, you can unscrew wires from the terminals on the pressure switch to isolate. Even easier, you could put an insulator between the contacts. A common bread bag clip is a suitable insulator.
When you take a reading, I suggest you identify what is isolated (such as disconnected at the pressure switch or not, splice in place, or not, etc.) Also indicate where the test leads are. You have done some of that, but you want to have both types of info for each reading or set of readings.
Note that when you take readings, you can unscrew wires from the terminals on the pressure switch to isolate. Even easier, you could put an insulator between the contacts. A common bread bag clip is a suitable insulator.
I got a plumber who did this before. Going to help me do everything 400.00 money " well" spent.
I want to thank everyone who helped me! Will post update!
Nice. Water for the house is important enough to borrow money for if need be -- unlike a new car.
Stay out of the way, listen, speak little, take notes and pictures if that does not bother the plumber.
You got that right! Just shut up and watch. That's the way to learn. I'm retired now, but if I had to do it all over again, I'd pick a business that I was interested in and work for nothing. Not really for nothing I'd be learning that business inside and out.
Reach4 & valveman , thank you for your time.
John calen
New Member
Ya after 14 days, water! It was the wiring on drop down. Plumber & I had to pull pump twice. First time one hot came loose. I'm going to feel that exercise tomorrow
Couple of things 1: sediment in the cold water pipe giving me trickle , hot water fine so it has to be sediment. 2 pressure switch starts pump at 32 instead of 30. Then shuts down pump at 52-55. I can't tell because needle shakes. Then it slowly comes down to 42
what gives? I have a 30-50 switchP.s stupid me, I don't know how hd the ground to hot and hot to ground on the switch. Must have been tired.
Tom
Glad you have water.
Post a photo of the pressure switch, pressure gauge, and the input to the pressure tank. This may give a clue as to what gives.Couple of things 1: sediment in the cold water pipe giving me trickle , hot water fine so it has to be sediment. 2 pressure switch starts pump at 32 instead of 30. Then shuts down pump at 52-55. I can't tell because needle shakes. Then it slowly comes down to 42
Similar threads
