Pulled my first well pump some questions

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trotter13

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My submersible pump 2 wire 1 phase 3/4hp. Kept tripping the breaker, pump is about 23yrs old. I pulled the pump, bought a new one with the same specs.
Pump is piped with 1" poly. I bought 1-1/4 to 1" adapter, adapter tapers down like a ribbed fire hose. When I cut the poly I didn't do a good job about a quarter inch difference do to cutting the pipe on a angle. Should I recut it to make it flush? Also, I bought 2 hose clamps at home depot. Tried to tighten them but they only clicked, doesn't seem tight enough. I dont want to lose the pump. So I figured cheap Chinese stuff and went to a plumbing supply company. Bought two more clamps, put them on and same thing! Try to get them really tight and click can't get them tight either. Wtf?
Now I'm nervous about dropping the pump in.
Should I change the pitless o ring? It should also be said that I pulled the pump 4 days ago and hose, wire and new pump is laying on my lawn because my friend forgot to help me put back in. He wont be back this way for 3 more days. My other friends have health problems so that won't work. Any who, it's been single digits outside. Anything to worry about? Well head is covered.
Tom
 

Reach4

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Pump is piped with 1" poly. I bought 1-1/4 to 1" adapter, adapter tapers down like a ribbed fire hose.
Brass, stainless?

When I cut the poly I didn't do a good job about a quarter inch difference do to cutting the pipe on a angle. Should I recut it to make it flush?
Yes. How long is the poly? If long, you might get a long barb fitting that takes 3 clamps. That would be more important for the top, which will have the most stress. The longer the pipe, the more stress up top.

Bought two more clamps, put them on and same thing! Try to get them really tight and click can't get them tight either. Wtf?
The normal spec for tightening is 5 ft-lb or 60 inch-pounds.

Heat the pipe in hot/boiling water to soften enough to get the pipe over the barb. If you don't need to do that, you probably have the wrong barb.
 

trotter13

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My submersible pump 2 wire 1 phase 3/4hp. Kept tripping the breaker, pump is about 23yrs
Brass, stainless?
It's an everbuilt stainless.

Yes. How long is the poly? If long, you might get a long barb fitting that takes 3 clamps. That would be more important for the top, which will have the most stress. The longer the pipe, the more stress up top.

The poly is about 175 feet Im reusing the same hose. Old pump had two clamps. With a non tapered barb

The normal spec for tightening is 5 ft-lb or 60 inch-pounds.

Heat the pipe in hot/boiling water to soften enough to get the pipe over the barb. If you don't need to do that, you probably have the wrong barb.

Had to heat the poly.
Brass, stainless?


Yes. How long is the poly? If long, you might get a long barb fitting that takes 3 clamps. That would be more important for the top, which will have the most stress. The longer the pipe, the more stress up top.


The normal spec for tightening is 5 ft-lb or 60 inch-pounds.

Heat the pipe in hot/boiling water to soften enough to get the pipe over the barb. If you don't need to do that, you probably have the wrong barb.
 

trotter13

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Brass, stainless?

Stainless


Yes. How long is the poly? If long, you might get a long barb fitting that takes 3 clamps. That would be more important for the top, which will have the most stress. The longer the pipe, the more stress up top.

Poly is 175 feet

The normal spec for tightening is 5 ft-lb or 60 inch-pounds.

Heat the pipe in hot/boiling water to soften enough to get the pipe over the barb. If you don't need to do that, you probably have the wrong barb.

I heated the poly
 

Midriller

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Poly is simple with a bit of practice, a heat gun or boiling water makes it easier to manage. 2 or 3 clamps 180 degrees from each other both facing you, and you only need to tighten with a nut driver ( ratchet and socket is far too much force) most of the grab comes from the design of the ribs of a quality brass of stainless adapter the hose clamps are just for extra security. Make sure to tape your tails so they don't chafe your pump wiring. Always use a torque arresster and good luck!!!
 

Reach4

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How to do the quotes? Really messing this up.
If you click Edit, you can play with it.

The QUOTE ends with a /QUOTE (both in square brackets). They can be edited. In your case, I think you probably lost a /QUOTE.

To do what I did in #2, select the piece you want to quote, and if an Edit appears, click the Edit. Add your response. Then select a different thing you want to quote separately, and repeat....

Alternatively, paste a /QUOTE , put your response, and then paste a new QUOTE to do it more manually.

I was able to read your reply just fine.
 

trotter13

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Poly is simple with a bit of practice, a heat gun or boiling water makes it easier to manage. 2 or 3 clamps 180 degrees from each other both facing you, and you only need to tighten with a nut driver ( ratchet and socket is far too much force) most of the grab comes from the design of the ribs of a quality brass of stainless adapter the hose clamps are just for extra security. Make sure to tape your tails so they don't chafe your pump wiring. Always use a torque arresster and good luck!!!

I did all that you said. Except the nut driver, I use socket driver. Thank you.
 

Reach4

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I did all that you said. Except the nut driver, I use socket driver. Thank you.

How about the part about torque? If your hand is not calibrated by experience, you should try playing with a torque wrench to see what 5 ft-lb feels like. The specs are usually written in in-lb, and there have been a lot of people who mis-read that as 60 ft-lb. :eek:
 

Randy Sellers

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My submersible pump 2 wire 1 phase 3/4hp. Kept tripping the breaker, pump is about 23yrs old. I pulled the pump, bought a new one with the same specs.
Pump is piped with 1" poly. I bought 1-1/4 to 1" adapter, adapter tapers down like a ribbed fire hose. When I cut the poly I didn't do a good job about a quarter inch difference do to cutting the pipe on a angle. Should I recut it to make it flush? Also, I bought 2 hose clamps at home depot. Tried to tighten them but they only clicked, doesn't seem tight enough. I dont want to lose the pump. So I figured cheap Chinese stuff and went to a plumbing supply company. Bought two more clamps, put them on and same thing! Try to get them really tight and click can't get them tight either. Wtf?
Now I'm nervous about dropping the pump in.
Should I change the pitless o ring? It should also be said that I pulled the pump 4 days ago and hose, wire and new pump is laying on my lawn because my friend forgot to help me put back in. He wont be back this way for 3 more days. My other friends have health problems so that won't work. Any who, it's been single digits outside. Anything to worry about? Well head is covered.
Tom
You'll be okay by waiting to put it in oh, I know this from experience. Far is the clamps go. I had same issue as you until it was recommended that I dip pipe in boiling water and then once pipe was pliable used two clamps in opposite direction of each other. After hot water I use the heat gun once I've got them together get the heat gun moving around until I could actually see the outline of the barbs underneath it and then tighten clamps
 

trotter13

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You'll be okay by waiting to put it in oh, I know this from experience. Far is the clamps go. I had same issue as you until it was recommended that I dip pipe in boiling water and then once pipe was pliable used two clamps in opposite direction of each other. After hot water I use the heat gun once I've got them together get the heat gun moving around until I could actually see the outline of the barbs underneath it and then tighten clamps

Yes, I did that with the clamps. I also heat the pipe with a propane torch, a round and in the pipe. Then I taped up the pipe from the clamps to about 1 foot up the pipe & wire all the way to the end every couple of feet.
 

Randy Sellers

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Yes, I did that with the clamps. I also heat the pipe with a propane torch, a round and in the pipe. Then I taped up the pipe from the clamps to about 1 foot up the pipe & wire all the way to the end every couple of feet.
Sounds like you've got it as good as you're going to get it. I went to the auto parts and found these clamps what you were fairly expensive so I ordered them online. they did clamp down nice. Just be careful they don't measure the same way I believe I got a 3/4 inch which opened up to an inch and a half because inch will not tighten enough. Give it a little thought before you order it better off walking into auto parts store
 
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Valveman

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I never liked torque arrestors, especially with poly pipe. They get a little old and stiff and you can't get the pump out of the well. I just use a Cycle Stop Valve to greatly reduce the number of cycles, then a torque arrestor is not needed. If you are worried about the end of the motor kicking up and rubbing the casing, a 4" shroud solves that and keeps the motor cooler in the process.

I would be afraid of those clamps as the bolt sticks out far enough to cause problems down the well.
 

Midriller

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I never liked torque arrestors, especially with poly pipe. They get a little old and stiff and you can't get the pump out of the well. I just use a Cycle Stop Valve to greatly reduce the number of cycles, then a torque arrestor is not needed. If you are worried about the end of the motor kicking up and rubbing the casing, a 4" shroud solves that and keeps the motor cooler in the process.

I would be afraid of those clamps as the bolt sticks out far enough to cause problems down the well.
I dont worry about the motor contacting the casing as much as the rotational torque on startup, when the poly is twisted we have seen it kink or crack (cheap box store poly) we have not had issue with our arresters getting stiff but I am aware there are many different styles and brands, we like the simmons 1350. Admittedly, we tend to prefer sch. 80 pvc over poly so we don't do a ton. Also be very careful when engineering a system with poly and a CSV as if you pump is over sized at all you may be able to overpressurize your drop poly and have major issues, sone fore thought and engineering, and reading YOUR pump curve will prevent this.
 

trotter13

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I never liked torque arrestors, especially with poly pipe. They get a little old and stiff and you can't get the pump out of the well. I just use a Cycle Stop Valve to greatly reduce the number of cycles, then a torque arrestor is not needed. If you are worried about the end of the motor kicking up and rubbing the casing, a 4" shroud solves that and keeps the motor cooler in the process.

I would be afraid of those clamps as the bolt sticks out far enough to cause problems down the well.

My well has a six inch casing, I bought the torque arrestor not sure if I want to use it. I do have about 6-8 spacers on the poly.
Tom
 

Valveman

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I don't like those spacers or stand offs for the wire either. Anything extra you put down a well is just another opportunity for a failure. The CSV also has a limit as to how much back pressure it can take. The pipe is rarely rated for lower pressure than the back pressure the CSV can handle. And yes using the pump curve to deduct the static water level from the shut off head of the pump will tell you how much back pressure the CSV and drop pipe will be seeing.
 

trotter13

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I dont worry about the motor contacting the casing as much as the rotational torque on startup, when the poly is twisted we have seen it kink or crack (cheap box store poly) we have not had issue with our arresters getting stiff but I am aware there are many different styles and brands, we like the simmons 1350. Admittedly, we tend to prefer sch. 80 pvc over poly so we don't do a ton. Also be very careful when engineering a system with poly and a CSV as if you pump is over sized at all you may be able to overpressurize your drop poly and have major issues, sone fore thought and engineering, and reading YOUR pump curve will prevent this.
Everything is going in that came out only with new pump. Same HP 3/4 well depths 195 feet , water starts at 75 feet down. The pump I took out was in there for 23yrs.
Thanks Tom
 
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