Well Pump Constantly Running, Low Pressure, Bladder Tank Not Filling

[capecoddave]

Hello -

Trying to solve an issue where my bladder tank is not filling and our pump is constantly running. Low pressure was the first sign of a problem and I discovered the bladder tank is not filling/empty. I can easily move the tank around and when I attempt to drain it nothing comes out.

I do have a pressure gauge which is hanging around 20psi when the pump is running. The T check valve at the bottom of the pressure gauge seems to have failed. If I turn the pump off and open the drain on the well side the house drains out which seems to me that water is going back through the check valve.

Is the check valve required for pressure to build and fill the tank or do I maybe have a leak outside in addition to a check valve failure? My submersible pump was just replaced last May so I would expect that is not the issue.

Appreciate any help! Thank you

 

[Valveman]

Even though the pump is fairly new, you still either have a pump problem or a hole in the pipe down the well. The pump is what makes the pressure.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[capecoddave]

That makes sense to me. Based on the little research I have done it seemed the pump should be able to sustain more pressure. Since the pump is running non stop there must be a leak.

 

[Reach4]

The T check valve at the bottom of the pressure gauge seems to have failed. If I turn the pump off and open the drain on the well side the house drains out which seems to me that water is going back through the check valve.

How about a picture? Include the input to the pressure tank, the pressure gauge, and this check valve you are talking about. And this "drain" you open.

 

[Cacher_Chick]

Assuming your pump is submersible (in the well), the leak is very likely to be the drop pipe going down to the pump. Sometimes it can be a simple as the o-ring at the pitless adapter has failed. The worst case scenario is the piping between the well and building has failed and the water is going into the ground. Getting a good look into the well and pulling the drop pipe/pump for inspection is very likely going to be needed.

 

[LLigetfa]

Assuming your pump is submersible

No need to assume since the OP stated it is. Unless it is a very deep well and the pump is dedheading from a low water level, the more likely scenario is a leak that is large enough so as to max the GPM at 20 PSI.

 

[Reach4]

No need to assume since the OP stated it is.

Not exactly. He did not say what his submersible pump was replaced with. When I saw that he had a check valve, I suspected he had a shallow well jet pump.

 

[capecoddave]

Yes, I did replace with a submersible. Will grab some pics when I get home

Well is 65' deep.

 

[LLigetfa]

When I saw that he had a check valve...

I have never heard of a T check valve so assume there is no top-side check valve.

 

[capecoddave]

I have something like this. That would make sense though because it is definitely not working as a check valve. Good learning experience.

 

[Reach4]

Both of those tank tee kit images have check valves, that you would normally have been better to leave out. Now that you have that in place, it will be interesting to see your photo.

 

[LLigetfa]

I have something like this.

Something like and exactly like are not the same thing. As reach4 said, both those have check valves. They are the cylindrical object with barb nipple threaded into them. Also both show the drain cock on the tank side of the Tee so it makes sense that opening that drain cock will drop the pressure.

The check valve should hold some pressure when the pump is turned off so long as water is not used, i.e. the drain cock and ball valve are both closed. The check valve will mask a leak between the pump and the tank. It is also illegal in several states. A leak between the pump and tank can reverse flow and suck contaminated ground water into the well.

 

[capecoddave]

Here is a pic

 

[capecoddave]

 

[capecoddave]

If I run the pump and fill the house and then close the green ball valve at the top of the picture, the house will drain from the red spigot when the pump is off if I open the valve again.

 

[Reach4]

If I run the pump and fill the house and then close the green ball valve at the top of the picture, the house will drain from the red spigot when the pump is off if I open the valve again.

If you are saying that if you open a faucet in the house, water will not flow, that is normal. That is the purpose of the green valve.

If you are saying that water will come out of the drain valve with the red handle, even though the pump is off, that is normal. If the green valve is closed, the water is coming from the blue pressure tank.

What is not normal is that with the green-handle valve closed, the pump cannot build pressure enough for the pressure switch to turn off the pump.

I don't think I see a check valve in your photo. That is good.

The indications that there is a leak are looking good. I presume you have a pitless adapter. In that case, lift the well cap. A well cap does not have a pipe going through the top. Look and listen. The leak may be visible. You will want to call your pump guy to get this fixed.

 

[capecoddave]

Ok. So no check valve makes sense. I was just using the house water to try to test the valve by seeing if water flowed back out the red spigot. Sounds like it should. I popped the cap yesterday. No visible leak. Pump guy is coming tomorrow. Hopefully the leak is not between the house and the well.

Thanks everyone for the responsiveness.

 

[LLigetfa]

If you close the red drain valve and the green ball valve and then turn off the pump, does the pressure drop a lot?

 

[capecoddave]

Yes, drops completely. No pressure.

 

[capecoddave]

Sometimes it’s the worst case scenario