Low Pressure/Flow - Need advice

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TimJ

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I am a seasoned DIY'er but new to well maintenance. I just moved into a new home with a well and the pressure at the faucets drops quickly after turning on, especially if more than one outlet is open at a time. The pressure at the tank is 80psi with all faucets closed and the pump not running. I have observed it as low as 40psi with the pump running, but nothing lower. I have lived with city water for years and the end goal is to have full pressure at all faucets regardless of what is being used along with safe and clean to drink. I am currently waiting on water analysis results from a certified lab. I have done some research into it but see there are a lot of helpful members here which I hope can guide me in the right direction. Attached are photos of the tank with markings. I currently do not know how deep the well is or the flow rate. Any advice on how to gather this would be appreciated.
Well.jpg
Well2.jpg
 

Valveman

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You have your own water system now. There is no reason not to have all the pressure you want, you just have to make it happen. That is a really old style system. The pressure switch is on the air side of the tank, so the tank is probably losing all the air through the pressure switch, and the tank is water logged. I don't see a check valve and schrader, so it probably doesn't have a bleeder either, but really can't tell. A 1/2HP at 105' is going to pump much water either. Get at least a 10 GPM, 3/4HP pump and replace that tank with a PK1A and you can have even better pressure than your city friends.
 

TimJ

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You have your own water system now. There is no reason not to have all the pressure you want, you just have to make it happen. That is a really old style system. The pressure switch is on the air side of the tank, so the tank is probably losing all the air through the pressure switch, and the tank is water logged. I don't see a check valve and schrader, so it probably doesn't have a bleeder either, but really can't tell. A 1/2HP at 105' is going to pump much water either. Get at least a 10 GPM, 3/4HP pump and replace that tank with a PK1A and you can have even better pressure than your city friends.
What pressure settings would be recommended to start with for the PK1A kit? The high setting for the current system is 80, but clearly there is something wrong.
 

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40/60 is the most common. I prefer 50/70 and the 10 gallon tank for two story houses. But you can the PK1A up as high as you want, the limit is how much pressure the pump can build.
 

TimJ

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Quick update - Installed the PK1A kit as mentioned above. The pressure was initially much better but as soon as the pump kicks on at the low setting of 50psi, the entire system pressure drops to 0psi for a second before building quickly back up to 60psi which is what the valve is set for. On top of that, the system takes an unusually long time to get to the top pressure, 70psi. I have timed it at 70-90 seconds with nothing but the pump pressurizing the tank, I have the main house shut off closed. I suspect the pump is on its last legs and needs to be replaced. Sound reasonable or am i overlooking something?? If it is the pump, any recommendations of brand/model that can be picked up locally?
 

Reach4

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You need make the water pressure zero temporarily, and adjust the air pressure in the tank on the PK1A to 48. If you still get a stutter in pressure as the the pump kicks on, drop the air pressure a bit.

On top of that, the system takes an unusually long time to get to the top pressure, 70psi. I have timed it at 70-90 seconds with nothing but the pump pressurizing the tank, I have the main house shut off closed.
I think that is normal, and the way you want it to work.
 

Valveman

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With the 4.5 gallon tank it should only take about 30 seconds to fill and shut off. If you have the 4.5 gallon tank your pump maybe struggling to get to 70, so you could turn the pressure switch down to maybe 45/65. If you have the 10 gallon tank 70-90 seconds is about right. Those tanks usually have the right amount of air, which should be about 45 PSI. I worry that there might be a bleeder orifice in the well. Do you see any air coming out of the faucets?
 

TimJ

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With the 4.5 gallon tank it should only take about 30 seconds to fill and shut off. If you have the 4.5 gallon tank your pump maybe struggling to get to 70, so you could turn the pressure switch down to maybe 45/65. If you have the 10 gallon tank 70-90 seconds is about right. Those tanks usually have the right amount of air, which should be about 45 PSI. I worry that there might be a bleeder orifice in the well. Do you see any air coming out of the faucets?

The faucets do sputter a bit at times, but never a consistent stream of air.

What I am really struggling to understand is why the system pressure drops at the faucets to sometimes just a trickle even though the pump is running and the gauge is reading 60psi at the tank. The pressure at the faucets will start great but fall to just a low volume stream if left running for over 10-20 seconds. It is all copper piping in good condition. I had a licensed plumber out before purchasing the home and he recommended changing out the tank but noted nothing else being a concern.
 

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If you still have 60 PSI at the tank and the faucets start good and drop off quickly, you have a restriction somewhere. The restriction is usually a clogged filter, but it could also be a partially closed valve or a pinched line somewhere. Faucets starting with good pressure and dropping off quickly is a dead give away for a restricted line.
 
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