System looses pressure when filter regenerates, new pressure switch

[Winterhawk]

We have a well with with bladder tank, full house water filter, and water softner. The pressure switch corroded, was leaking baddly, and I replaced it 2 weeks ago. I checked the bladder tank pressure when it was empty, and it was at 32psi so I assumed the old switch cut in pressure was approx 34 psi. I adjusted the cut in pressure to 34 psi opened the valves and all seemed fine. No leaks, good pressure, etc, but now when our water filter regenerates every 2 days at 2 a.m. pressure drops to zero and the pump doesn't kick on. I get up every 2 days now and manually start the pump for a few seconds to get the pressure to build. I've checked the water filter to bleed any access air but sure what to do at this point or why the pressure drops so low the pump won't come on. FYI, I can turn on the outside faucet full open les than 10 feet from the tank and it will run forever without running out of pressure. I assume I have done something incorrectly but don't have a clue what it is.

 

[Reach4]

I expect that

1. your filter requires more water for backwash than the pump can deliver.
2. you have a pressure switch with a low-pressure cutout (lever on the side)

How many GPM does your backwashing filter require?
What is your pump?
Is the pump submersible?

As a test, maybe start a backwash, and watch the pressure gauge. Use the lever to keep the pump on during the process. I think that test will tell the story.

I thought of another possibility. Maybe post a photo showing the pipe from the pump, input to the pressure tank, and the pressure switch.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[LLigetfa]

My guess is that you installed a switch that has the low pressure cut-off and that during the heavy use of backwash, the pressure is dropping enough to trip it. It is possible your air gauge and the water gauge don't both read the same and that you shaved the 2 PSI differential too close.

You don't mention what you have for a pump. A jet pump should have 5 PSI differential as they need the pressure to make more pressure so shaving it to close can cause the pressure to nose dive, tripping the low cut-off.

 

[Winterhawk]

New to the house, less than 2 years. Pump is a Grunfos but that's all I know. Its submersible at 220 feet. First I'll run the backwash and see what happens. I have 2 air pressure gauges and both read the same, but I have no idea if the water pressure gauge is accurate. It's a liquid filled gauge and works smoothly. Since the switch went out Sat late I was forced to buy a new one from the box store so we had water the rest of the weekend. The switch I removed was Pentair, the new one Everbilt, both 30-50. Should I try adjusting back to 30 psi cut in? If both gauges are accurate the air pressure would be 2 psi over and not under. Give me half day while I tackle the lawn then I'll try the backwash while watching the pressure.

 

[Reach4]

If both gauges are accurate the air pressure would be 2 psi over and not under.

Ding ding ding!!!... I should have picked that up. Raising your pressure switch to 34/54 will probably totally solve this. Typically 3.5 turns of the nut on the big spring is 10 PSI. Thus you will want about 1.4 turns CW, and then check the results. You normally don't adjust the nut that is on the smaller spring.

Alternatively, set the air to 38, and set the switch to 40/60.

When you have about 40 PSI of water, the air and water gauges should read very close to the same. This would only be done to compare gauge calibration.

 

[LLigetfa]

Ding ding ding!!!... I should have picked that up.

Don't feel bad. I missed it too.

 

[Winterhawk]

Just did a manual regen and in 2 1/2 minutes pressure dropped and pump shut off. I adjusted pressure switch already to 34/54, actual reads 34/56. So same happened at 30/50 and 34/56. Since pressure drops so fast I'm beginning to think I've got an issue with the filter control valves. Since I can't find any name anywhere on the controler or valve assy I don't know how to trouble shoot it. Maybe junk got caught in it after restarting? At least all seems okay when not in regen mode but still need to solve the problem.

 

[LLigetfa]

There is nothing that can go wrong with the filter control valves that can cause it to draw more water than the pump can produce unless your pump is bad.

 

[Reach4]

Just did a manual regen and in 2 1/2 minutes pressure dropped and pump shut off. I adjusted pressure switch already to 34/54, actual reads 34/56.

1. Can you hold the lever on the pressure switch, that you use to restart the pump, during the backwash? Keep holding the lever as long as the pressure is under 45. What happens to the water pressure during the backwash? 10 PSI? 20 PSI, what?

2. What is between the pipe coming from the well and the pressure switch?

Since I can't find any name anywhere on the controler or valve assy I don't know how to trouble shoot it.

The controller probably has a cover of some sort. If you can get that off easily, look for labels under the cover. If you don't find model and brand info, post a photo of what you can see...

Post a photo of the front and back. 800 pixels and 200KB max if you upload to this site, or put a link to a different site to pictures of any size.

3. Also, what are the dimensions on the tank? 10 x 54?

4. What is the purpose of the filter, if you know. Iron? Sulfur smell?

 

[LLigetfa]

We have a well with with bladder tank, full house water filter, and water softner.

Not sure what a "full house water filter" is and water filters don't generally regenerate. A softener will regenerate but most filters just backwash.

That said, some cartridge type filters don't backwash but have a purge option.

 

[Winterhawk]

Thanks everyone. I fixed the problem after finding out both of my air pressure gauges were bad. I recalibrate the air pressure in the tank and the water pressure back to 30/50 and it all worked fine. I will start a new thread because I have a new problem.