Pressure Switch Stuck Open

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Ccjohnse

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I have a deep well jet pump (Myers HR50D) that I just replaced. I hooked everything up and it worked great until it reaches the cutoff pressure and the switch opened. Now the switch is stuck in the open position and I can’t figure out why or how to get it to close again. It’s a typical 2 post pressure switch.

I checked the old pump that I took out and on the pressure switch (also 2 post) the default position is closed with the contacts touching. You can manually open the switch but it springs right back to closed when you let go. This new pump is stuck in the open position.

Is the presssure switch faulty or does it have some sort of low pressure override that’s not letting the switch close?
 

Reach4

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Now the switch is stuck in the open position and I can’t figure out why or how to get it to close again.
I think you are looking at the contacts, and seeing a gap. Is that correct?

Is the presssure switch faulty or does it have some sort of low pressure override that’s not letting the switch close?
Does the pressure switch have a little lever on the side?
square-d-pump-switches-fsg2j24m4bp-64_145.jpg


If so, it could be a low pressure cut-off keeping you stopped. In that case, the lever will turn the pump back on.

If no lever, and if the pressure has been removed, replace the switch. Replace or clean the nipple to the switch, which may be clogged. Consider replacing the pressure gauge with a new 0-100 psi gauge while you are at it.
 

Ccjohnse

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There is no lever on the side.

Yes when I look at it there are open contacts.

The pump, hose, fittings, pressure line, and gauge are all brand new. I’ll take it apart and make sure there are no blockages in it.

Sounds like it may be a faulty pressure switch?
 

Reach4

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There is no lever on the side.

Yes when I look at it there are open contacts.

The pump, hose, fittings, pressure line, and gauge are all brand new. I’ll take it apart and make sure there are no blockages in it.

Sounds like it may be a faulty pressure switch?

Zero or near zero water pressure into the switch plus open contacts means a faulty pressure switch. If there is pressure above the cut-in pressure, then the switch staying open is normal.

Check that you have near zero water pressure. The gauge should read near zero, but what if the gauge is faulty? So if you open the drain valve at the pressure tank, does very little water come out? Use a hose to direct any water to where you want.

Another possibility is a clogged nipple shared between the pressure switch and pressure switch. Clogs bad enough to hold water pressure to the gauge and switch for hours would be very unlikely , but not impossible.

I presume that your pressure gauge and pressure switch are very close together. If there is any doubt in that regard, post a photo that includes your pressure gauge, pressure switch, and the input to the pressure tank.
 

Ccjohnse

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I took the line for the pressure switch completely off so the pressure would have seen 0 psi. It still didn’t cut in. I’ll get a picture this weekend. It’s at a cabin so I’ll get a picture when I get back there
 

Reach4

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I took the line for the pressure switch completely off so the pressure would have seen 0 psi. It still didn’t cut in. I’ll get a picture this weekend.
That proves a defective pressure switch.

It is better to locate the pressure switch at the pressure tank, and run the wires to there. However if your method works, close enough.
 
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LLigetfa

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With nasty water, the space under the diaphragm can build up with minerals preventing the diaphragm from moving far enough to close the contacts. Rebuild kits are available but hard to find so a new switch would be your best bet. Don't try taking the old switch apart to clean it unless you have a new one on hand. Most often the rubber diaphragm disintegrates when disassembled.
 

woody37

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Hi Terry....I live in Guam where real expertise can be very limited. I have a 3/4hp shallow well jet pump on a 30 gal pressure tank that I use to boost our low (20psi) city water pressure. The other day when my neighbor used his water blaster, the 1" npt pvc adapter actually blew off the pump intake port--not sure how long the pump ran after this event--maybe 10 minutes--but when I discovered it, I immediately secured power and and was able to reattach and tighten all fittings, put a new check valve, and check the plastic tubing to the 30/50 pressure check for any obstructions or debris. Now the pump only reaches 30psi, and will not stop running. Everything was working fine prior to this incident. What do you think I need to do next? Thanks, Terry...
 
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