Critique this south Texas wellhead setup

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Preston Moore

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I recently acquired property with this wellhead configuration. I know the wiring needs to be reworked. I'm on that, but can any of the experts on here point out any potential problems with the piping? Is the well cap correct? There is a 2" PVC pipe being held by a "claw" type cap. Thanks for your time and any advice would be appreciated.

2018-01-30 14.52.51.jpg
 

Reach4

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You have a submersible pump. The casing looks to be 4 inch, which would be 4.5 inch OD. That is good.


If redoing this, the pressure switch should be connected closer to the pressure tank.
PVC should be protected from the sun's UV. Paint can be used.
If that is a check valve at the highest PVC area, it should probably be removed or disabled.
 
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Valveman

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You should probably just start over. The down hole part is probably in as bad a shape as the above ground stuff.

Make sure the pump has a good check valve or install another right on top of the pump.
Change the 2" down hole pipe for 1" or 1 1/4".
Get rid of the "claw" and get a proper 4X1 or 1 1/4 well seal.
Eliminate the 2" compression fitting and use a proper union of the right size.
Move the pressure switch to within a couple inches of the tank and put it on a tee and remove that check valve it is screwed into now.
Check the air charge in the tank and the pressure switch setting.

If the tank does not hold air or even just because this is the perfect time to do it, you can change to a constant pressure system, which will give you better pressure and keep problems from happening in the future. It would also be able to use a much smaller tank and make the plumbing easier.

If your tank is still good adding a CSV1A would look like this. (pic from a customer)
CSV1A on well head.jpg


If the tank is no good you can replace it with a PK1A kit, which would look like this. (pic from a customer)
PK1A on well head.jpeg
 

Craigpump

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You should probably just start over. The down hole part is probably in as bad a shape as the above ground stuff.

Make sure the pump has a good check valve or install another right on top of the pump.
Change the 2" down hole pipe for 1" or 1 1/4".
Get rid of the "claw" and get a proper 4X1 or 1 1/4 well seal.
Eliminate the 2" compression fitting and use a proper union of the right size.
Move the pressure switch to within a couple inches of the tank and put it on a tee and remove that check valve it is screwed into now.
Check the air charge in the tank and the pressure switch setting.

If the tank does not hold air or even just because this is the perfect time to do it, you can change to a constant pressure system, which will give you better pressure and keep problems from happening in the future. It would also be able to use a much smaller tank and make the plumbing easier.

If your tank is still good adding a CSV1A would look like this. (pic from a customer)
View attachment 45054

If the tank is no good you can replace it with a PK1A kit, which would look like this. (pic from a customer)
View attachment 45055


Not your fault, but there's a few issues with installation in that picture.
1) valve between pump & pressure switch
2) "safety rope"
3) wire not protected from rodents
 

Preston Moore

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I am extremely grateful for the responses. This is just the kind of information I wanted. Lots of experts on here, glad I stumbled on to this forum. I have to run some errands right now, but I have a ton of questions. Let me sort out my thoughts and get back on here tonight.
 

LLigetfa

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I see barb wire and have to wonder what it is supposed to protect since the PCV piping is on both sides. It looks like a tetanus shot waiting to happen.

That power cable coming up out of the ground looks like it has been under water before. The trench that it is in looks to have been washed out too.
 

Reach4

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I see barb wire and have to wonder what it is supposed to protect since the PCV piping is on both sides. It looks like a tetanus shot waiting to happen.
Maybe to discourage cattle from damaging the piping?
 

Preston Moore

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Sorry for the late reply. I think it would be a lot easier if I make a short video of the entire system. It will be confusing if I try to put everything into words. I'll try to have a video up within a week or so. Again...thanks to everyone....it's a big help.
 

Preston Moore

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I went ahead and knocked it out....seems to be working very well aside from a few issues I think that will have to be addressed by a well guy.

 

Valveman

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Looks much nicer. But you still do not have a proper well seal. Rats and bugs can still drop down the well between those chocks in the slips. A proper well seal will need the coupling or tee to sit right on the well seal.

Also you did not need the check valve that the pressure switch is screwed into. Plus the pressure switch should have been on a tee closer to the tank, not out on the manifold.

You could also just cut that metal fitting off and glue on a tee or elbow. Glued is not as good as threaded for pulling the pump, but that is already above the well seal.

Your main problem is the 2" pipe in the well. It really needs 1 1/4" so a 4X1 1/4 well seal will fit. I don't think they could find a 4X2 well seal, which is why it is sitting on the slips. Get some 1 1/4 pipe down the well and a regular 1 1/4 tee, coupling, or elbow will sit right on top of the well seal.

Tank is bad! Now is a good time to replace all that with a PK1A kit like in the above picture. That would get the pressure switch close to the tank, save a lot of space, and eliminate cycling, which just a new tank cannot do. Also notice the proper well seal in that PK1A picture above. Bugs and rats cannot get in with a proper well seal.
 

Preston Moore

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Thanks for the reply valveman. I made a video of the previous configuration, but I had no way of uploading it due to limited internet service out there.

As bad as the previous plumbing and electric looked, it really has functioned flawlessly for a long time. I was discussing this with my dad yesterday and we both were amazed that none of the pipes had frozen and cracked in many years. With as much pipe that was exposed above and below ground level it's pretty amazing.

100% agree about the well seal. Everything from rodents to pesticides to vandalism crosses my mind with it open like that.

I'm thinking just a 2" hole in some 1/4" plate would work. It seems just about every other well on the surrounding properties is done that way. I don't know why they used 2" drop pipe. None of the other wells in the area use pipe that large. Well guy up-selling the customer?

Example from an adjacent property:

Is that pressure relief valve necessary? It seems about half the people said use it and the other have said no way they just leak.

IMG_20180315_184411.jpg


I have to get the kid to school....to be continued.
 

Valveman

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A plate would be much better than those old slips. If you make good close cuts and caulk the wire in place, a plate is fairly critter proof. But it is still not pesticide/herbicide/dog crap proof if the water gets over the well head.

Yes a pressure relief valve is recommended. I don't like them on the well head, but rather over on the tank manifold somewhere. The water hammer that happens between the check valve on the pump and the one at the tank (which you don't need) is what causes those pressure relief valves to leak.
 
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