Light Switch wired to receptacle. Can I use to add recessed lights?

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Deats

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Hi,

I'm looking to add recessed lights to my bedrooms. I have access to the ceilings from the walk in attic. Each room already has a light switch that's wired to a single receptacle in the room for a lamp. I'm looking to use the existing light switch but run Romex up to the attic to power a few LED recessed lights in each room. Is this possible and is it the right way to do this?

Thank you,
Pete
 

Cwhyu2

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You can but first you have to check the wall box at the switch to see if a neutral and ground wires are in the switch wall box if not the you can come from the receptacle wall box and pull your wire to the attic.
 

WorthFlorida

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I did what your looking to do. The wall switch goes to a receptacle satisfy the code so when entering a dark room a wall switch can turn on a lamp. Most likely the power is in the wall switch box anyway. At the wall switch disconnect the wire (most likely black but it could be red) to the outlet. Cut the bare copper to the insulation and cap it off with a wing nut. At the outlet also remove the hot wire and cap it off and replace the outlet without the side strap or jumper cut or add a jumper wire between the two brass color screws.

As far as recessed lighting be sure to get the proper cans to meet your attic space. Usually for old work and are able to be in contact with insulation. LED lamps in six recessed lights (as an example) uses less than 60 watts of total power. Each LED flood lamp were equivalent to one incandescent 65 watt flood light. I had a bedroom that measured appox. 13 x 17 and I installed six cans. It was just the right amount of light.

You want to use MC (armored) cables. Since it will not be possible to anchor the wire to studs in walls and with an insulated attic it may not be possible to properly properly protect romex. MC cables can be just laid down. They are made of aluminum with copper wire so they're easy to cut. You'll have to look at the circuit breaker amp rating. If it is a 20 amp you must use 12 gauge. You cannot use 14 gauge.
Z151rvfo5oy.JPG
 

WorthFlorida

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Let me add, with armored cable you MUST have a ground (bare copper or a GRN wire at the wall switch). With all that metal both the cable and recessed cans you'll never want to be possible should a hot wire contact the metal without a ground. If no ground and all that metal is electrified, the breaker may not trip.
 

Jbfan74

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I did what your looking to do. The wall switch goes to a receptacle satisfy the code so when entering a dark room a wall switch can turn on a lamp. Most likely the power is in the wall switch box anyway. At the wall switch disconnect the wire (most likely black but it could be red) to the outlet. Cut the bare copper to the insulation and cap it off with a wing nut. At the outlet also remove the hot wire and cap it off and replace the outlet without the side strap or jumper cut or add a jumper wire between the two brass color screws.

As far as recessed lighting be sure to get the proper cans to meet your attic space. Usually for old work and are able to be in contact with insulation. LED lamps in six recessed lights (as an example) uses less than 60 watts of total power. Each LED flood lamp were equivalent to one incandescent 65 watt flood light. I had a bedroom that measured appox. 13 x 17 and I installed six cans. It was just the right amount of light.

You want to use MC (armored) cables. Since it will not be possible to anchor the wire to studs in walls and with an insulated attic it may not be possible to properly properly protect romex. MC cables can be just laid down. They are made of aluminum with copper wire so they're easy to cut. You'll have to look at the circuit breaker amp rating. If it is a 20 amp you must use 12 gauge. You cannot use 14 gauge.
Z151rvfo5oy.JPG
No need to use MC unless it is required in his area.
NM can be fished down a wall without being stapled.
 
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