Drain back system for drilled well

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CdnMaple

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This fall, we had a drilled well installed at our new house, and asked for a drain back system. The well driller installed a valve before the pressure tank which allows air into the line once the pump stops, thus allowing the water to fall back into the well. A foot valve is installed between this valve and the pressure tank to keep the water in the tank. His system doesn't allow any way for the air to escape once the pump turns on again, resulting in air getting into our pressure tank, and coming through the water system.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what we need to install to release the air from our system.

Years ago we had a drain back system put in when we had a drilled well installed. The old well driller explained his set up to us, saying that he put a valve in the line just before the pressure tank. When the pump stopped the valve opened to let air into the line, allowing the water to fall back into the well. Then when the pump started up again, the valve allowed the air out of the line so that it wouldn't enter into the pressure tank with the water. The system worked great. Our water never froze, even in -40 degree temperatures, and we never had air in our pipes. Unfortunately to old well driller is no longer available to ask for assistance.

We had assumed that a similar system would be installed with the new well but the young well driller is not familiar with a system like the old well driller installed. He said that it's typical for air to be in the water system which has a drain back is installed.

Thank you for your assistance.
 

Craigpump

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You need a tank that you can install an air volume control in so the extra air can be bled off. If you currently have a diaphram or bladder tank, you need to replace it with a standard tank either galvanized steel of fiberglass. John Wood 125 psi galvanized tanks seem to last forever.
 

CdnMaple

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Thanks for your feedback.
We bought on the great Canadian Shield. The land is mainly bedrock, the top soil is shallow and only 4' deep at the most. So we need a drain back to keep the water from freezing. The system we had years ago utilized a bladder pressure tank, with a valve system just before the tank. We should have taken notes back then. I'll mention your suggestion to our well guy.
Much appreciated.
 

Valveman

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They make expensive ones and not so expensive ones. Here is one I have seen.
http://www.netafimusa.com/wastewater/products/air-vents/air-vents/
wastewater_airvents.jpg
 

Reach4

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They make expensive ones and not so expensive ones. Here is one I have seen.
That available feature of combining a vacuum breaker into the air release is a nice idea.
 

CdnMaple

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I came across the website, for a business called "Cottage Water Supply", and spoke with them on the phone. They are working with us to set up a drain back system. I'll let you know how we do with getting our system set up. Mark said that he can send us the parts and instructions to do it ourselves. (I'm not sure about the DIY part, but we'll see how it goes.)

For anyone interested in checking out the site and drain back system ... here's the site link to a page with diagrams of their drain back system. http://www.cottagewatersupply.com/winter-water-systems/

Thank you for all your responses.

Maureen
 

Valveman

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All you need to do is take out the little schrader valve and replace it with one that will vent and vac. A couple of fittings to get you from the 1/8" female thread where the Schrader came out to the 3/4" male thread pictured in one of the vent vac valves above and it would be an easy DIY job. There is even one that has a Schrader on the side.
 

Reach4

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ll you need to do is take out the little schrader valve and replace it with one that will vent and vac.
When the pump goes on, wouldn't much of the blast of air fly past the vent, and continue through the top check valve?
 

Valveman

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You would be surprised how much air will come out through a small orifice. Even those big 2" air vents will have a 1/4" orifice in them to let the air out. Density and path of least resistance stuff. The air will come out before the water can open the check valve.
 

Texas Wellman

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All you need is a hydro-pneumatic style tank (can be either metal or composite) and then an air volume control (or air release) and you should be good. We do it on every 4" well here. Over time the bleeder or the snifter will plug off so you will need to make sure it's still working 1-2 per year and replace the snifter as necessary. The bleeders sometimes plug off and the fix is a little more complicated but lately we've just been drilling a weep hole into the drop pipe.
 

CdnMaple

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All you need to do is take out the little schrader valve and replace it with one that will vent and vac.

Our tank has an air bladder in it, I thought the schrader valve went to it, not to where the water is stored. Is there a "vent and vac" valve that could be introduced into the water line before the tank?
 

CdnMaple

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Ooops - Ok, I'll call the distributor and see which is best for our system. Plumbing is way out of my comfort zone but I'll figure it out. (But that's why I paid the big bucks to a well drilling company to install the stuff. )

Thank you
 

Bubbie

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Hi i have this valve/breather ??? and it has been dripping. Im not sure what type of valve it is a breather? snifter? it allows the well line to drain to stop freezing in the winter. Could you please help me identify what it is so I can repair or replace?

IMG_8046[1].JPG
IMG_8048[1].JPG
IMG_8052[1].JPG
 
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