Do not caulk around stools

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I've read 6-7 threads where almost all plumbers use adhesive caulk around the base of the stools. Some say all the way around or leaving the just the back open, depending on code. This prevents urine or water from getting under the stool. It also stabilizes the stool a bit. I get that. I understand everyone is against silicone as well. But when I pull a stool, and I have to cut or knife the caulking joint that is under the stool base, it gets maddening. When lifting the stool, any adhesive caulk not cut completely can pull up old or loose tiles, patches of linoleum, and wood finishes. Trying to get a putty knife or box blade knife to cut the caulk risks scratching the floor with the handle of the tool trying to run it parallel with the floor as well, especially marble and stone. I noticed that the recommended caulk Terry uses is also an adhesive caulk. Who wants to glue the stool to the floor knowing they are going to have to remove it later. If the caulk does come apart with out damage to the floor, often there is residual caulking adhered to the floor. If the floor is rough/native stone, wood, or there are tile joints under the outline, removing the adhesive caulking can be a chore too. When the foot print of the new stool is different than the old stool, caulking still stuck to the floor is problematic. Also, any knife marks under the rim when trying to cut the caulk shows up outside the base of the different stool. Am I crazy? There has got to be a better way than using adhesive caulk on all floor surfaces.
 

Terry

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The PolySeamSeal formula allows you to pull the bowl and clean it up. It dissolves in water, unlike Silicone.
It's code here in Washington State, and in other states as well.

We don't use Silicone for the reasons mentioned in the post above.


locktite-logo.jpg
 
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When it is first installed it cleans up easily in water. A sponge works great for that. When it dries and hardens and sticks to the floor is creates a problem. Removing residual caulking from rough stone or wood for instance with a razor is problematic.
 

Terry

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I do this all the time. You must be following somebody that is using something other than what I'm using.
And again, it's CODE. I can't not do it. Here in Washington State, the inspector checks to make sure the bowl is caulked most of the way around. It's left open at the back in case there is a bad seal. That way you spot a problem sooner.

loctite-tub-tile.jpg


Clear Loctite Tub & Tile
 
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Our code recently requires it too. We have used white play-doh then, after inspection, removing it. I think it contains oils so it would stain marble if left in place. I have to apologize to too many homeowners when the previous plumber glued the stool down and now the residual caulking shows outside the new stool footprint or or the floor is scratched/damaged when trying to cut the caulking and pull the stool. Isn't this a problem with a lot more plumbers than just me. I've been doing this for over 30 years and I still have a prejudice with adhesive caulks on rough surface floors.
 
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I'll try the polyseamseal. I don't like metal rimmed stool flanges like some of the others. The ones I have followed were corroded, the metal was thin and would "butterfly" or bow if the stool flange was not secured real well and allowed the flange to flex side to side. When they use 3/4" roofing nails on plywood to set the flange, instead of screws it makes it worse. If it is on a slab, the rim will flex as well because there is nothing to keep the flange "flat" with the slab or flooring unless Tapcons are used. Not likely.
 

Reach4

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If installing a Toto Unifit adapter, it is important to use the sealant caulk to prevent the front of the toilet from siding left or right.
 

WJcandee

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Just so it's clear, the new owners of Polyseamseal, who are the makers of Loctite, have renamed it. And a lot of people get confused over it.

It is now called Loctite 2-in-1 Seal And Bond, as Terry has put the picture above. It is exactly the same stuff, they have just eliminated the Polyseamseal name. It is NOT a silicone caulk, and, as Terry says, behaves very differently. I had to pull a bowl that I had sealed with it, and where I had to remove it from the tile after pulling up the bowl, which came up easily, the places the caulk had adhered just came up in a long "string" of the stuff, leaving no marks. Perfect. Then I just wiped the area with a wet rag. My experience, anyway.
 
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Thanks for the interest! I called Loctite and asked them about it. They said the Tub and Tile, pictured above in both pictures, has a little bit of silicone but the All Purpose does not have any at all. The All Purpose is in a blue tube instead of the red tubes as pictured above. It also has the same "new" logo as the upper picture with the "2 in 1" across the front. Our local plumbing wholesaler does not carry any caulking that is not siliconized and the Loctite was the only non-silicone caulk I could find at Lowes.
 

Reach4

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Thanks, I wish all plumbers would read this thread and quit using silicone and silicone based adhesives to caulk around the base of the stools. I do have a question if any old plumbers read this. Do you find yourself getting more cantankerous as you get older about sloppy and incompetent plumbers?
 

lanachurner

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For the most part I install ceramic floors in the bathrooms I remodel. Haven't installed a vinyl floor in years.
On a ceramic floor I grout the bowl to the floor with the same grout as the tile. Grout can easily be broken loose and scraped off from both the bowl and floor. Not sure if it meets code but most inspectors just look to see if there is Something there but can't/don't see the difference between caulk and grout.
Grout looks nice too - matches perfectly.
 

Toolaholic

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It's code here. Do a proper job of removing old caulk when replacing stool . As We said in the USMC " Suck it up Buttercup "
 
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