Sterling Ensemble, New Guy who is completely lost...

[Mark Melton]

I just purchased a house back in may with intents of a total remodel and it's come time to get to the hall bathroom. It still had the one piece new construction bath/shower combo and i removed it and it has come time to replace it.

I purchased a Sterling ensemble vikrell tub and shower. Nothing fancy just a normal tub and wall set with shower. I am going to go ahead and replace the shower valve with a new one while everything is torn apart (don't plant on doing this again for a LONG time) I am lost on two things due to the different varies of products available.

1) Can someone recommend a good replacement shower valve? I am just going to have a regular shower head stub out of the wall with a bath tub spigot. Nothing fancy. I don't care to spend some money to get a good one.

2) What kind of bath drain / overflow to get? brass? pvc? I just need a little help.

3) Any idea on how to secure the new valve? I cannot put a 2x4 support bracket due to a pvc vent pipe occupying the same wall cavity.

I have been a long time lurker of this forum and I have gained great knowledge from everyone here. Any help is appreciated.

 

[Smooky]

What is wrong with the existing tub/shower valve?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Mark Melton]

I'm sure it works ok. All the connections are very corroded and it is one of those things that I want to replace while i have access to it. I would hate to have my new tub and walls in and have something start leaking/or mess up.

 

[Jadnashua]

If you can't put blocking horizontally, could you get some in there vertically? Say a 2x4 on edge, or maybe something wider so you could get by with one verses two?

You really don't want to use CPVC from the valve to the tub spout...you want full-diameter copper.

If you pick up the Delta R10000 rough-in valve, you'd then have a choice, either now, or down the road, to change the way the valve works or update the trim. That rough-in valve body will accept three different types of control: single-handle pressure balance; two handle volume/temperature; or two handle volume/thermostatic controlled. In a plumbing supply store, the rough-in and trim/cartridge are sold separately (a big-box store may package them together), so you have LOTS more choices of trim and function. One of the large manufacturers will make it easier to find replacement parts when things wear out eventually. Going with a shower surround like that, the position of the valve body is more critical than without...there is usually a section in the instructions on thin-wall installation. That typically leaves the plaster ring on the valve and uses that to sandwich the wall with the trim plate to keep the valve in place. It's still nice if the valve body is anchored to the wall, then, the whole thing is more sturdy, but at least if you get the wall clamped between the ring and the trim, it works. Yours did not leave the plaster ring on, which would have made blocking much more desirable.

 

[Mark Melton]

I may go back with galvanized on the tub spout supply line. I have never soldiered copper pipe and would hate to pay a plumber for 10 minutes worth of work. Would galvanized be that bad of a option?

That valve looks good and has good reviews. I am getting all new trim. I am going to go with the a single handle pressure balance. Yes the prior installer had the plaster ring on, I just took it off to get a better look at things. I plan on using pex for the water supply lines to the valves since the current CPVC lines are bent because of the holes drilled in the floor aren't very even in comparison to the location of the valve. What does the cartridge do? I plan on going to a local supply house because of better prices/parts vs big box stores.

 

[Jadnashua]

A galvanized nipple is often plated before it is threaded. Even if it is not, and done afterwards, the act of threading it into the female will break through at least part of the coating...IOW, galvanized is a lousy choice. If you go with a nipple, use a brass one or learn how to solder. Nobody likes a shot of rusty water when filling the tub.

 

[Jadnashua]

A galvanized nipple is often plated before it is threaded. Even if it is not, and done afterwards, the act of threading it into the female will break through at least part of the coating...IOW, galvanized is a lousy choice. If you go with a nipple, use a brass one or learn how to solder. Nobody likes a shot of rusty water when filling the tub.

 

[Mark Melton]

Makes a great point. Yeah that doesn't sound very desirable at all.

 

[Reach4]

I may go back with galvanized on the tub spout supply line. I have never soldiered copper pipe and would hate to pay a plumber for 10 minutes worth of work. Would galvanized be that bad of a option?

If you want a threaded nipple, go brass.

 

[Terry]

Delta would be a good choice there.
Their tub spouts can be installed with a pipe nipple, which is nice with the Sterling kits.
To install the panel on the end, you will need to remove the tub spout stub out.

Temped in with a galvanzied nipple and cap, which gets replaced with brass.

 

[Mark Melton]

Thanks guy for all your help! I'm going to stay around for a while!!!