Pump Tripping Thermal Overload Protector

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K Bar

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You can get the CSCR box for any size pump. The running capacitor just makes the pump a little more efficient like power factor correction capacitors. But if that little blue relay is bad noting will work.
Roger that--so I am okay with that box? I just need to test or just replace relay before I pull the pump?
Or maybe a whole new box if there is not much difference in price.
I found instructions on testing the QD Control Box with (one capacitor type) on Dean Bennett site but nothing about testing the CSCR type that I have.

I did this test on my relay as per instructions for the QD box thinking maybe it tests same as my CSCR relay:

FROM Dean Bennett site: The Triac test is done with your meter set to R x 1000. Connect between CAP and B terminals on the relay. The correct test reading should be infinity.
So with control box cover off and all wires connected my reading is exactly opposite--ohm meter goes to zero.
Did I actually find a problemo.


Thanks guys.
 

K Bar

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I don't remember ever seeing a box like that for 1/2, 3/4 or 1 hp pumps
I have found nothing on Franklin site saying you have to use one vs the other. Just the one is more efficient. But who know maybe this pump like the more simple model.
 

Reach4

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I was looking at
http://www.franklin-electric.com/media/documents/M1311_60_Hz_AIM_Catalog.pdf table 9 on page 13. It says the pump designed for use with that control box that has a motor model prefix of 214505 for use with the 282 405 5015 (CRC) control box listed in table 49. The one for the non-CRC box also has prefix 214505 if I now read that right. So based on the manual, this would seem to indicate that that either box could be used with the same motor.

Anyway, K Bar would seem to have confirmed Valveman's suspicion of the bad relay.
 

K Bar

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I was looking at
http://www.franklin-electric.com/media/documents/M1311_60_Hz_AIM_Catalog.pdf table 9 on page 13. It says the pump designed for use with that control box that has a motor model prefix of 214505 for use with the 282 405 5015 (CRC) control box listed in table 49. The one for the non-CRC box also has prefix 214505 if I now read that right. So based on the manual, this would seem to indicate that that either box could be used with the same motor.

Anyway, K Bar would seem to have confirmed Valveman's suspicion of the bad relay.
Thanks, I hope that is the case. Having a heck of a time finding one locally. Probably have to order and wait.
 

Reach4

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While waiting for QD relay "223 415 902" (according to table 49), I suggest carefully re-checking your resistances. http://franklinaid.com/2012/06/14/column-by-column-winding-resistance-in-ohms/ Accurately measuring those low resistances with an ordinary ohmmeter is hard.

Make sure you have wired things correctly. Also, see the tests starting at page 45 of the AIM manual. Table 46A of the AIM manual has the resistances of wires that you will add to the expected winding resistances, since you are measuring up top.

It might be as cheap to buy a whole 2801054915 control box -- the one without the run capacitor.
 
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K Bar

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While waiting for QD relay "223 415 902" (according to table 49), I suggest carefully re-checking your resistances. http://franklinaid.com/2012/06/14/column-by-column-winding-resistance-in-ohms/ Accurately measuring those low resistances with an ordinary ohmmeter is hard.

Make sure you have wired things correctly. Also, see the tests starting at page 45 of the AIM manual. Table 46A of the AIM manual has the resistances of wires that you will add to the expected winding resistances, since you are measuring up top.

It might be as cheap to buy a whole 2801054915 control box -- the one without the run capacitor.
Yep I was thinking of ordering that box and giving it a try before pulling the pump. So far its cheaper than buying just the starter relay.
 

Texas Wellman

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A new C-box is about $70 at a big box store. Replace the box and make sure the right wires are connected (R, Y, B). If it still doesn't work something else is going on.
 

Texas Wellman

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You can also check by ohm's that Red is really red and yellow is really yellow and black is really black. I've seen em crossed at the pump due to the wires being discolored from water stains.
 

DonL

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A new C-box is about $70 at a big box store. Replace the box and make sure the right wires are connected (R, Y, B). If it still doesn't work something else is going on.

For that price I would get a new one, before a new pump is needed.
 

K Bar

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Got my new 2801054915 control box today. Put it in and the pump runs right up to 60 psi now and shuts off when the pressure switch clicks--just like it should. So turns out it was indeed a bad starter relay.
Now I have some weird water pressure issues.
Will do a little research first before posting about it here.
Hopefully something simple.
Thanks guys for the solid help.
You guys really set me on the right track.
 

Reach4

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Nice.

Running 40-60 PSI, the pressure tank precharge air should be 38 PSI. Set/check that with the pump off and the water pressure at zero.
 

K Bar

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Nice.

Running 40-60 PSI, the pressure tank precharge air should be 38 PSI. Set/check that with the pump off and the water pressure at zero.
Thanks will check that tomorrow.
Having initial high pressure for a few seconds then very low water flow regardless of pressure. Sounds like a clog or filter. This system has probably not been used in years. Pretty sure filter is packed with crude. Will check that too.
Very exciting to actually have running water.
Thanks again for being on here with great help.
 
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