Need help with Fleck 7000SXT programing

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cleverchimp

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I just installed the fleck 7000SXT softener and need help with programming it (48k capacity, 1.5cu ft). Based on 3 person@60 gallon, 16-17GPG hardness, assuming 3000k/day, in 8 days that come up to 24k grain.
I did some research and came up with this :

DF: GAL
VT: dF2b
CT: Fd (Meter Flow Delayed)
C: 24k (capacity)
H: 17 (hardness)
RS: SF (Percentage Safety Factor)
SF: 20 percent
DO: 9 (Day override)
RT: 2:45AM
B1: 10 mins (back wash)
BD: 60 mins (brine draw)
B2: 5 (salt time setting)
RR: 10 mins (rapid rinse)
BF: 12
FM: t1.2 - 1.5'' Turbine Meter (7000 default)

Questions :

The first time the system started, I did not pot water on the tank or the brine tank. Just add gravel, resin and the salt on brine tank. The faucet inside turn yellowish (seems to be resin bleeding to the pipe), now it's cleared up. Will I have issues in the future?

Since it seems that i loose some resin in the beginning, how to tell if I have 1.5 cu feet resin from looking at the level of the resin on the tank (the height of the resin)? (Mind you, I did have gravel before the resin).

GPG varies between taps, sometimes it's 16 on this tap, and 17 on the others. Should I use 16 or 17?

Are the setting right? Please advise.

WATTS.jpg
 

Reach4

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I suggest BF=6 if your BLFC is the 0.5 gpm but 12 if BLFC is 0.25 gpm. That is 6 lb/ft[sup]3[/sup].
Make C = 30 k capacity.

You can raise DO if you don't have significant iron.
 
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cleverchimp

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I suggest BF=6 if your BLFC is the 0.5 gpm but 12 if BLFC is 0.25 gpm. That is 6 lb/ft[sup]3[/sup].
Make C = 30 k capacity.

You can raise DO if you don't have significant iron.

My BLFC is 0.125 GPM actually. What is the recommended BF? I believe the default is 15, and please explain about the capacity...Gary calculator suggesting its 24K, I'm confused.

The default setting on RS is RC, people have been suggesting RS, 20%. Do you know why?

Also I read that if DO is more then 7-8 days is no good, while some said on city water 10 is the good setting. I'm on city water, so I'm basically splitting the difference and come up with 9 days. How many days you suggest?

When I change the C from the default 30K to 24K decrease the remaining gallon from 2000 something to 1000 something.
 

Reach4

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>My BLFC is 0.125 GPM actually.
Are you sure you have a BLFC= 0.125 GPM? Is there a label, or what? huge4.jpg

> What is the recommended BF? I
>believe the default is 15, and please explain about the
>capacity...Gary calculator suggesting its 24K, I'm confused.
>
See table at the bottom of http://www.qualitywaterassociates.com/softeners/sizingchart.htm
You have 1.5 cubic feet of resin. Does calculator differ?

At 6 lb/ft[sup]3[/sup] you need 9 pounds of salt. You need 3 gallons of water to give 9 pounds. You need 24 minutes @0.125 GPM to get 3 gallons.

Are you talking about what was in the Fleck 7000 before any programming, or after it was set up by your dealer? The initial setting from the firmware is not shown in the service manual, and it certainly should not be just left alone. Plus, I'll bet that a lot more Fleck 7000 SXTs ship with 0.5 BLFC than 0.125 GPM. If by the dealer, remember the dealer is selling the unit by stated capacity rather than touting salt efficiency, but in that case, maybe he put in the 0.125 BLFC by mistake.

>
>The default setting on RS is RC, people have been suggesting RS, 20%. Do you know why?

Reserve capacity is to allow capacity to remain to handle the load until the next time it is 2:45 AM. With a longer

>
>Also I read that if DO is more then 7-8 days is no good, while some
>said on city water 10 is the good setting. I'm on city water, so
>I'm basically splitting the difference and come up with 9 days.
>How many days you suggest?

My understanding is that iron removal is the reason to hold it to about a week. The question for DO is that if you are away for a week or 2, how often do you want to regen? If you use the amount of water that you calculate, then DO should not play a part.

I might choose 14 or 20 days without iron or manganese. Some city water has those things. I am no expert. I have been reading the same things as you, but maybe just a little longer.

You might want to get a hardness test kit. See if you are over-stretching maybe. The Hach 5-B is well respected and easy enough to operate. It is a lot more accurate than the test strips.

>
>When I change the C from the default 30K to 24K decrease the remaining
>gallon from 2000 something to 1000 something.

If you wanted a less shocking change, you would play with those settings right after a regeneration. You have some gallons already used, so changing the capacity will have a larger effect on the gallons remaining.
>
>The default setting on RS is RC, people have been suggesting RS,
>20%. Do you know why?
>
>Also I read that if DO is more then 7-8 days is no good, while some
>said on city water 10 is the good setting. I'm on city water, so
>I'm basically splitting the difference and come up with 9 days.
>How many days you suggest?
>
>When I change the C from the default 30K to 24K decrease the
>remaining gallon from 2000 something to 1000 something.
 

cleverchimp

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My mistake, I guess my calculation is wrong. My water varies from 15 to 20 GPG, I guess I have to assume the worst water...which is 20 GPG. At usage of 180 gallons/day, that requires 3600 grains removal. Using C : 30k, that means 8.3 days between regeneration, make it 8 days.

My resin is 10% Crosslink (made in China though), on that chart...I saw that 1.5 cuft at 30k setting only require 6lb/salt. This require 2 Gallons of water, meaning at 0.125 I need to set BF at 16.

bflc.jpg

I'm talking the one that was set by the dealer. Sounds like a good idea, the kit rather expensive though...$40, does the Hach SofChek Water Quality Test Strips for Total Hardness, 0-425 mg/L will be good enough
I have a revised settings

DF: GAL
VT: dF2b
CT: Fd (Meter Flow Delayed)
C: 36k (capacity)
H: 20 (hardness)
RS: SF (Percentage Safety Factor)
SF: 20 percent
DO: 9 (Day override)
RT: 2:45AM
B1: 10 mins (back wash)
BD: 60 mins (brine draw)
B2: 5 (salt time setting)
RR: 10 mins (rapid rinse)
BF: 32
FM: t1.2 - 1.5'' Turbine Meter (7000 default)

This setting might be more efficient in salt usage. At 30k, 1.5 cu feet consumes 6lb of salt, which need 2 gallon of water on brine tank. It saves on average about 5 lb of salt every month compared to 36k, at 10 days between regen.
 
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Reach4

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OK on the BLFC. Remember DO does not come into play if the water use is what you forecast. It only maters if you use less water than planned.

You are planning to use 4 pounds of salt per cubic foot of resin. There are people who recommend that. Gary is not one of them. But if you do use the 4, you need to reduce C. I don't have a number to suggest for C with your 4 pounds per cubic foot.

Also note that the softener does not stop softening at some point. It just lets more and more hardness leak through with each gallon. A little hardness coming through is not terrible.

Regarding the Hach 4B, the manufacturer's web site has a good price (surprise!). But shipping will eat up the saving unless you are ordering something else. Do you have a friend who wants a test kit also?
 

cleverchimp

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Right. I actually planned to use 8 pound per cubic foot, so 1.5 cubic foot that would take 12 pound of salt which translate to 4 gallon of water needed on the brine tank, with BLFC of 0.125, that takes 32 minutes.

They dont use softener...they think it's too expensive, I think its a good investment considering all the stuff it protects...including your skin and hair LOL.
 

cleverchimp

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This is almost the same setting as the one that I come up with, except the DO, B1 and RS. RS were set CR (This is the part that I kind of confuse, many said RS and some said CR, not sure which one is better...my understanding is, they just a reserve and calculated differently), B1 is 5 minutes? Is it long enough? DO 14, doesn't it's too long? Unless under an assumption it use american/germany made resin.
 
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Reach4

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SF (Safety Factor %): Percentage of of gallon remaining capacity
RC (Fixed Reserve Capacity): Fixed Gallon Amount
CR (Variable Reserve): Refill amount based on grain capacity and remaining gallons in reserve when unit regenerates I was wrong. This choice selects the reserve based on recent experience.

Do you have the service manual?
 
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cleverchimp

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yes I do, I guess my question is why more people more toward setting it to SF. Some suggest 10%, most suggest 20%.
 

ditttohead

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Use CR, it is not that critical
DO of 14 does not matter on municipal supplies. Considering that the vast majority of systems (5600 Econominder) have an unlimited DO. It is not uncommon for systems in low use applications to only regenerate once a month. A few people dwell on the DO, again, it is not important, 14-30 is fine.
B1 5 minutes is fine for clean water. Most "ultra water efficient" units have a 1 minute or no BW. Upflow systems also have no pre backwash. In clean water supplies, it is a non critical function. Set it for 5 -10 and you will be fine.
 

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Hello,
New to the forum, looks like a great place. I’m hoping you can give me some advice on my issue. I have well water in my home and 2 years ago I replaced my old water filter system with a fleck7000 water softener. Recently (with in the last month) we have gotten a rotten egg smell in all our water, hot and cold. I have lived in the house for 8 years and have never had this before. Our water was hard before so I replaced the old system that was leaking with a softener. We have a Navien tankless HW heater so not really any place for the water to sit and fester. I’m very puzzled. Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
 

Reach4

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This would have made sense as a new post. To post a new thread:

Click Forums, which gets you to http://www.terrylove.com/forums/index.php

Click the name of the forum that you want to post into.

On the right, click on "Post New Thread".

Recently (with in the last month) we have gotten a rotten egg smell in all our water, hot and cold. I have lived in the house for 8 years and have never had this before. Our water was hard before so I replaced the old system that was leaking with a softener.
How long after replacing the old system with a softener did the smell start? A softener will not treat H2S, but maybe your old system did.

I would try sanitizing your well and plumbing. That may help a lot, or a little.
 

1niceguy*

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This would have made sense as a new post. To post a new thread:

Click Forums, which gets you to http://www.terrylove.com/forums/index.php

Click the name of the forum that you want to post into.

On the right, click on "Post New Thread".


How long after replacing the old system with a softener did the smell start? A softener will not treat H2S, but maybe your old system did.

I would try sanitizing your well and plumbing. That may help a lot, or a little.

Thanks I will post to a new thread. It’s been about 2 years since I replaced the old system with the water softener.
 
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