How to replace frost free sillcock

Users who are viewing this thread

Elapidae

New Member
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Texas
I have a broken frost free sillcock (left the hose attached during a freeze... yes, another lesson the hard way...). I need to replace it but I'm not sure how. This is a newer house (built in 2012). I'm pretty sure it's 1/2 in PEX to the back of the sillcock but in looking at the construction of other houses going up by the same builder, I can see that there is no real access to the PEX to sillcock connection on the inside. On the outside, the faucet is mortared into the brick. It looks like I'd have to remove some bricks to replace it. I can't see any way to access the actual PEX to sillcock connection at all. I'm wondering if the PEX is likely crimped on an adapter that's then threaded on the sillcock such that I could perhaps just unscrew the sillcock from the outside and screw a new one in without having to tear out any brick. Is that possible (or likely) for a 2012 built home? I've attached pictures of a sillcock (pre-brick and sheetrock) installed by this builder on another house. In my case it's all bricked and sheetrocked.
Any advice? I'm not sure where to start or even which end of the sillcock to attempt this replacement.

Thank you in advance for any assistance.
 

Attachments

  • SillcockInside.jpg
    SillcockInside.jpg
    56.8 KB · Views: 3,487
  • SillcockOutside.jpg
    SillcockOutside.jpg
    99.1 KB · Views: 4,937

Terry

The Plumbing Wizard
Staff member
Messages
29,942
Reaction score
3,458
Points
113
Location
Bothell, Washington
Website
terrylove.com
If the hose bib is threaded into a drop ear 90 that is secured, then you might be able to thread a new hosebib in.
If not, you can always cut the 2x4 out of there and work from that end.
 
Last edited:

Gary Swart

In the Trades
Messages
8,101
Reaction score
84
Points
48
Location
Yakima, WA
A frost-free sillcock has about a 12" pipe from the outside that is connected to the supply line inside the house. The actual shutoff is done on that inside end. When shut off, the water in that pipe will drain, but as you discovered, when a hose remains connected to the bib, the draining will not occur. OK, now to the fix part of the question. The connection to the supply pipe is usually done with a tee and the threaded adapter for the bib to screw into. To remove and replace the bib you must have access to this connection. It requires 2 wrenches, one to apply counter pressure as you turn the bib with the other wrench. This is assuming you have copper pipe. With old galvanized one wrench might work. Replacing is the opposite. Notice the arrow on the inside end of the fixture. Do not try to remove the broken bib from the outside. You will almost certainly damage the supply pipe. The insulation you have on the hose bib pipe is useless because insulation does not heat the pipe. Side note: The faucet should have a slight tilt to the outside so it will drain. (with the hose off)
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,798
Reaction score
4,412
Points
113
Location
IL
Additionally that faucet was designed to go much farther into the wall. Normally the bronze would be all of the way to the siding. Is that practical? If not, do what you can. Hmmm. Texas. You might be OK, but I really think you will be able to bring that in farther.
 

Elapidae

New Member
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Texas
Thank you all very much for the quick replies and information.
Originally I got all excited about cutting an access panel in the sheetrock on the inside, crimping on some PEX fittings, adding and an interior cut-off ball valve, etc... Once I went over and looked at how they are actually installed (the pictures above), I realized I wasn't going to get access to much on the inside.

I'm really hoping the hosebib, sillcock, faucet (I'm sure I'm probably using the wrong term) is screwed into a 90 degree drop ear elbow that's secured to the 2X4 with the insulated 1/2" PEX crimped on to it. There's absolutely no way to get a wrench on it as is if mine is like the one pictured. Even if I sawzall the 2X4 out, I don't think there is enough inward play to get a wrench in there much less 2.
Again, the pictures are of another house being built near mine by the same builder and are examples of how they do it. The reason it's sticking so far from the wall in the picture is because they just haven't bricked it up yet.
The good news is that it's not an emergency. As long as I don't turn the faucet on, it doesn't leak. I may wait and try to catch them actually hooking up one of the sillcocks to see what's behind the 2X4. It sure would be nice if I could just unscrew it, wrap a little teflon tape on a new one and screw it back (and somehow have it miraculously wind up being upright). Thank you all again. I really appreciate it.
 

Cwhyu2

Consultant
Messages
1,615
Reaction score
22
Points
38
Location
Cincinnati OH
Additionally that faucet was designed to go much farther into the wall. Normally the bronze would be all of the way to the si
ding. Is that practical? If not, do what you can. Hmmm. Texas. You might be OK, but I really think you will be able to bring that in farther.
That picture with the hose faucet sticking out looks like it was taken before the brick veneer was installed.
Looks you may be able to twist it out.
 

Bluebinky

Member
Messages
588
Reaction score
16
Points
18
Location
Des Moines, WA
It looks like you might need a bib with a longer neck -- like others have said, a 12 incher is about right for 2x6 studs and brick veneer.

That copper supply pipe should be as close to the interior as possible (without touching the wallboard and making noise).
 

Elapidae

New Member
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Texas
Here's a picture of what's inside the insulation (supply line).
 

Attachments

  • SupplyLine.jpg
    SupplyLine.jpg
    50.4 KB · Views: 1,868

Elapidae

New Member
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Texas
Yeah, thanks. If nothing else, the installation would force me to remove the hose. ;-)
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,770
Reaction score
1,190
Points
113
Location
New England
Woodford makes a few models of frost-free silcocks that are designed to drain, whether a hose is on it or not. Since you're going to replace it, you may want to look into that company's products.
 

hj

Master Plumber
Messages
33,602
Reaction score
1,040
Points
113
Location
Cave Creek, Arizona
Website
www.terrylove.com
You have given a few pictures, but NONE of them show the critical thing, namely HOW is the faucet connected to the piping. THAT is what will determine HOW to replace the valve. Everything else is guesswork and conjecture.
 

Elapidae

New Member
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Texas
That sounds like a good idea. I've heard the Woodford name a few times in my searching. Thanks.
 

Elapidae

New Member
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Texas
You have given a few pictures, but NONE of them show the critical thing, namely HOW is the faucet connected to the piping. THAT is what will determine HOW to replace the valve. Everything else is guesswork and conjecture.

Yeah, you're absolutely right. I went back and tried to look a little closer (without damaging the insulation). I believe it's connected through one of these:
 

Attachments

  • PEXElbow.jpg
    PEXElbow.jpg
    37.5 KB · Views: 1,864

Elapidae

New Member
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Texas
I don't know if it will help anybody but it did indeed turn out to be a drop ear elbow. Just cut off the main water line. Unscrewed the old, screwed in the new. 5 minute job.
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,798
Reaction score
4,412
Points
113
Location
IL
Congratulations on your success. It probably will help somebody. That somebody should consider using teflon tape on the threads.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks