Culligan Mark 59

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ditttohead

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And the equipment is often not the same on either side. We BDS for many companies, and some order high end equipment, others order the cheapest components that can be sourced with no consideration for quality, only price. Most, not all local dealers have to deal with after sale issues up close and in person, so they have a better incentive to make sure components are of the highest quality. The real problem with the water treatment industry these past few years has been this strange race to the bottom, both quality and price. Look at how many more knock off valves there are from China, absolute copies of the Fleck and Clack product line including copies of the 2850, 2900, 3900, etc. No R&D, no insurance, no liability, almost no testing, no innovation, etc. Fleck just released a new valve, and the knock off companies are already sending out feelrs to see if it should be copied, truly sad that some people support this type of business. These are the same people who buy movies at the swap meet with no regard to intellectual property or the amount of work that goes into developing a new product line.
 

Gary Slusser

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I blame the distributors that sell the lower quality stuff and then piss'n whine about dealers selling it like what is going on here in this thread. Some distributors are greedy and have no character, but then run down their dealers while remaining anonymous so as to not harm their income.

As to poor service, I have been on the internet answering questions from people with problems with equipment and the dealer they bought it from since Jan 2 1997. There were damned few if any online dealers back then. Even today we have people post here with problems their local dealer hasn't or won't fix and they outnumber the posts about online dealers. And as I said, it is much easier to get a bad rep online than it is for a local dealer unless there few local dealers in the person's area.
 

grumpy 040

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ok here is what I have. 2 people in the house on private well. 7 grains hardness. 3ppm iron. 3/4 piping. Ive been told many things. Everyone agrees on a Fleck 5600sxt or a 2510sxt . Here are the different opinions.... you need a 32k, a 40k, if you want less pressure drop use the 2510, 2510 is built better, 5600 is easier to work on been around forever, Use fine mesh resin, use SST60 resin, round tank is better than rectangular, stainless bypass is better than noryl visa versa. you get the picture.

What are your opinions?
 

ditttohead

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Both 5600SXT and 2510SXT are excellent, as to working on them, they can both last for 10+ years without service so this is a non issue. Both are exceptionally easy to work on. As to flow rate, both are adequate for a standard house, if you really care about flow rate, then the 7000SXT is your choice. If you plan on using a softener for 3ppm iron, then I would recommend the smaller unit since it will regenerate more often. Softeners used for iron removal should be regenerated often. Softeners not used for iron removal do not need to regenerate often. You have 22 grains compensated hardness, so a 32K system set for 20K actual capacity would regenerate weekly. I would recommend removing the iron prior to the softener, but other on this site will disagree. Fine mesh resin and SST60 are nice for iron removal, but fine mesh can give you some flow restriction, and sst is hard to justify the cost. Regular resin cleaning with citric acid or other specialized resin cleaners should be done regardless of the type of resin. Rectangular brine tanks can be problematic especially in warmer climates where they can start to look pregnant. Round is structurally more sound (physics 101). If you have room for round, round is better. Stainless vs noryl bypass, either is fine. We sell equal amounts of both, and either one if fine. The noryl is better for flow rates and it also can be used as a service valve or shut off valve, the stainless is either in bypass or service position only. The stainless has been around forever (it was originally brass) and both are easily maintained.

Hope this helps.
 

grumpy 040

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Everyone must agree with you dittohead. lol. I think Ill get the 32k 5600 with the sst. Can you tell me how and what to set it at. Also is there anything special I need to do to unhook my existing unit?
 

ditttohead

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Correct, exceeding the recommended flow rate will slightly decrease the hardness (quality) of the product water but... I doubt you would ever notice. I have serviced systems for over 25 years and have seen my fair share of 1 Cu. Ft. Autotrol 155's and Fleck 5600's on 8 bathroom houses, and never a complaint. I would never recommend this sizing, but after seeing it for decades and testing the water, and never hearing a complaint..
 

Gary Slusser

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My reply (post #10); I suggest a new correctly sized softener bought online based on your peak demand water flow rate and then the capacity for good salt efficiency for a regeneration about every 7-9 days. Click the link in my signature for instructions on how you do that.

BTW, Fleck is the largest and oldest valve manufacturer in the US and probably in the world. Their 5600 is the most popular valve and the 2510 is the plastic version of the brass 2500 that Culligan (and many other companies) used for the first 40-50 years they sold softeners. Of course the Culligan name was cast in the brass but other than that, it mostly was repairable with stock Fleck 2500 parts.
 

Gary Slusser

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Is that 32K the capacity you need for a regeneration with 3333 grains per lb salt efficiency to get you a regeneration once every 7-9 days?

If so then you need a larger than "32K" (a 1.0 cuft). The "32K" is a misnomer, you'll only get 30K and that requires a salt dose of 15 lbs, which 30,000/15 = 2000 grains salt efficiency. A 2.0 cuft ("64K") has a max of 60K and requires 30 lbs of salt, again 2000 grains per lb efficiency but, you could set the salt at 32,000/3333 = 9.6 so you'd round to 10 lbs and save 5 lbs every 7- days.

Now some self proclaimed expert here says you can get 32K out of 1.0 cuft softener if you'll set the salt dose to (IIRC) 18 lbs.; 32,000/18 = 1777 grains per lb, a terrible a salt efficiency.
.
 

grumpy 040

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all that is clear as mud to me. I have a culligan mark 59 that did me good. I want something that is equal to it .This is the specs. Image (5).jpg
 

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Reach4

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That's 0.7 cf of media.

I messaged you with one example.
 

Gary Slusser

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all that is clear as mud to me. I have a culligan mark 59 that did me good. I want something that is equal to it .This is the specs.

Then for a 6 day control valve, that is a non metered day timer that regenerates every X day if it is needed or not, you can go with an Autotrol 255 and IIRC 440 timer (that may be a 7 day), and since you have .7 cuft of resin, a 3/4 cuft softener. You would program the days of regeneration to match your present softener.

That wouldn't get you very good efficiency but it's like what you have. If I were the dealer you wanted to buy from, I wouldn't sell you that size softener or that type of control valve. Did you go to the link in my signature and study any of the info there?
 

Tom Sawyer

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Fleck 7000SXT or the 5600 either will serve you well for many years. 1.0 CU/ft is what you want. Don't over think this thing.
 
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