American Standard Push-Pull Shower Valve

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Terry

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American Standard made a Push-Pull Shower Valve in the 60's
For years my parents had one of these in their home, and sometimes I see them on jobs. It's hard to find out much about them, so here are some pictures of a valve I removed and replaced.

as_push_pull_01.jpg


You basic American Standard Push-Pull shower valve

as_push_pull_02.jpg


as_push_pull_03.jpg


as_push_pull_04.jpg


as_push_pull_05.jpg
 

Terry

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as_push_pull_06.jpg


as_push_pull_08.jpg


as_push_pull_11.jpg


as_push_pull_12.jpg


as_push_pull_13.jpg



as_n1130.jpg


Well, the mechanism was first used by Schaible for their sink faucets in the 50s, then Sears adopted it for their Lady Kenmore line, later American Standard used it on their first "control tower" sinks, (which then became a disaster), and finally it wound up in the push/pull line of bathroom faucets in the 60s. The problem with the design is that the handle turns the faucet on, but springs have to turn it off and if the spring or stem gets stuck on something, there is NOTHING in the universe that is going to turn it off until you take it apart. My boss's doctor had a Shaible faucet in his kitchen on the North side of Chicago and we were in the South suburbs. Every so often, until I got fed up and changed the faucet, it would stick and I had to go up there and "unstick" it. Someone was making a "Moen" style retrofit "front end" for the push/pull but I have not seen it for years.
hj

as-push-pull-09.jpg
 
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Terry

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I wound up replacing with a Moen Posi-Temp and 1920 remodel plate and TL182 trim. Access to the wall behind was going to be very tough.

posi-temp_1920_1.jpg


posi-temp_1920_2.jpg


Shown with a Delta RP17453 tub spout will "pull-down" diverter.
 
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Asktom

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Eventually the hole in the valve body where the guide post (#28) goes wears larger and things get sloppy. At that point the valve is trash because the cam & shaft (#26) won't engage the stem (#22) correctly. Until that point I have had good success rebuilding them. Their day is about done, however.
 

hj

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The round handle must have be an aftermarket replacement, because the tub, shower, and lav faucets all had the "T" handle. I saw a Moen display yesterday which had an elongated trim escutcheon so you did not need the "remodel plate.
 

Jody J

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HI
can you tell me if there are any trim kits that would work with this valve. Shower redo on the cheap, the valve is working fine but needs a cosmetic makeover.
Thank
Jody
 

Jody J

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No. I don't think anything has been made for that valve in forty years.

thanks for answering me.....so theres no way a moen rothbury push pull would work on that then correct?...what about the universal Delta or Pfister trim kit?? I havent found any that are volume and temp as of yet though
 

Terry

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Well..........you don't use a Chevy waterpump with a Ford engine.

If you look farther up, that's one of the reasons we removed it. It was no longer working well, and we can't get parts anymore.
Other brands are incompatible with it.
There is no interchange between the brands.

as-push-pull-07.jpg


as-push-pull-08.jpg


 
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eladolag

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I bought and installed the AME N-1030 rebuild kit including the shaft. Before and after water comes out from the handle when it is pulled to the on position. Why is there a hole running thru the entire shaft from end to end and how is water not supposed to come out thru it? Thanks

as-n1030-kit.jpg
 
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BrentAudi

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I bought and installed the AME N-1030 rebuild kit including the shaft. Before and after water comes out from the handle when it is pulled to the on position. Why is there a hole running thru the entire shaft from end to end and how is water not supposed to come out thru it? Thanks
Hello,
I read your question concerning water still pouring out of the handle before and after you did the rebuild. Was just curious if you figured out what was the issue?
I have this same control in one of my bathrooms and I am wondering if I should do a rebuild of the old or just replace the whole thing. I noticed the rebuild "kit" runs about $80 bucks. About the same price as some of the newer whole push pull controls.
Any advice you could give would be great.
Thanks
Brent
 

hj

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If you have a BPI, (brown's partsmaster Inc.), store near you or online they sell the rebuild kit. As a sidebar, that valve was NOT an American Standard design. It was originally Schaible and also used for Sears faucets. The same mechanism was used for the cast iron sinks with the "built in" faucets. The problem with them is the handle turns the faucet on, but springs have to turn it off and sometimes they get stuck. My boss's doctor had a kitchen faucet like that and when it stuck I had to drive about 50 miles to "unstick" it.
 
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BrentAudi

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If you have a BPI, (brown's partsmaster Inc.), store near you or online they sell the rebuild kit. As a sidebar, that valve was NOT an American Standard design. It was originally Schaible and also used for Sears faucets. The same mechanism was used for the cast iron sinks with the "built in" faucets. The problem with them is the handle turns the faucet on, but springs have to turn it off and sometimes they get stuck. My boss's doctor had a kitchen faucet like that and when it stuck I had to drive about 50 miles to "unstick" it.
Thanks HJ! I will check out BPI.
Thanks also for the history of the workings of the valve. To me it kind of works like an electric water valve. It has worked perfect up until the last year. Where it has gone from drip to a light run. I am going to take it apart in a day or so and see if a good cleaning will get it working. We have very hard water in the area of Atlanta that I live in. If that does not do the trick I will order the rebuild.
Brent
 

hj

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ON that valve, the "seats" are backwards. The rubber portion is inside the valve and the metal piece pushes against it by action of the springs.When you turn it on, the "cam" tilts the metal stem opening the valve. When you turn it off, the cam releases the metal pin and the springs are supposed to push it back and shut the water off. Because of this action, if it does not turn off completely, there is NO WAY for you to 'force' it closed.
 

BrentAudi

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ON that valve, the "seats" are backwards. The rubber portion is inside the valve and the metal piece pushes against it by action of the springs.When you turn it on, the "cam" tilts the metal stem opening the valve. When you turn it off, the cam releases the metal pin and the springs are supposed to push it back and shut the water off. Because of this action, if it does not turn off completely, there is NO WAY for you to 'force' it closed.
Thanks HJ!
Just curious about the inner rubber "seats". When taken out, are these common size "seats" that I could match up at Lowes or HD? Or were they specifically designed for this valve?
 

BrentAudi

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The seats are brass with a rubber face, and SPECIFIC to that type of valve.
Sadly I think I will have to give up on this dear valve. I wanted to keep it for Nostalgic reasons, but I won't be able. I took the valve apart very easy. Tried to get the seats out and it was a not going to happen. I brought them to a plumbing place and they tried for me for free, and they could not get them out. I wish I could find a New Old Stock front part of the valve...but I know that is not going to happen.
Any suggestions for a replacement? I will do it myself. I don't need the shower head, etc.... Just need the valve.
Thanks for all your input HJ!
Brent
 

Filmguy

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The round handle must have be an aftermarket replacement, because the tub, shower, and lav faucets all had the "T" handle. I saw a Moen display yesterday which had an elongated trim escutcheon so you did not need the "remodel plate.

I don't think it's aftermarket. I have three of these with round handles like the OP in my house. It was built in 1961 and has all American Standard fixtures.
 

Filmguy

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A question: the round handle requires a dufferent stem than the T handle. It's held on with a center screw, so it needs a rosette at the end like the one shown here. All the replacement kits seem to have the T handle end. Has anyone seen a source of replacement with a rosette-end shaft?
 
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