Professional opinions on this plumbing job, please.

[JMThomas]

{snip}

JM, I had no idea a water test was that complicated. I have to say, it's a pretty extreme test because those aren't normal conditions. I mean, when would your entire waste system hold water under pressure? It's only ever really handling running water. Wouldn't just running water through each connection approximate real life?

That's what the plumbing contractor did while building my (two story) house.

Unfortunately, they assumed that the sewer was hooked up. When they pulled the balloon from the house clean-out, there was a massive flood unto the front yard.

 

[Kimster]

That's what the plumbing contractor did while building my (two story) house.

Unfortunately, they assumed that the sewer was hooked up. When they pulled the balloon from the house clean-out, there was a massive flood unto the front yard.

Oh, cripes. That must have sucked. I don't think the inspector here will make me do a test anyway. I'm also going to be redoing the whole section of the stack I took out as well as the sink drain arm with the 90 that didn't bottom out. Anything inside a wall needs to be done right. I don't want any trouble down the road because tearing out and inch of concrete/plaster and 1/2 inch of drywall underneath is a PITA. I'll be paying more attention to my gluing this time.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Kimster]

Doing the sink rough-in right

OK, since I like to be 2 steps ahead on most things, I have some questions:

This is the sink I will be installing (wall-hung)



This is the plumbing configuration I'm doing in case I want to get the shroud -- depending on how nice the plumbing looks underneath when I'm done.



Can anyone see any problems with this configuration before I redo my lav drain arm/vent section?

Also, I'm going to want to use a chrome p-trap like this:

http://mountainplumbing.com/mt3015x

And is there anything wrong with these angle stops (other than the price). I'm assuming they're a ball-valve type:

http://mountainplumbing.com/mt5003l

So, since I'm using ABS in the wall, I know I'm going to need a p-trap adapter glued on to the end of the ABS stub-out and that will be the only thing sitting on top of the finished, tiled wall, yes? Does the adapter have to be ABS? Will the escutcheon included with the p-trap shown cover it? The plumbing will be exposed so I want everything to look nice and shiny and straight.

The tailpiece for the clicker drain assembly (http://www.osb.ca/products/Product-Detail.php?cat=19&productid=3535Q-CP) is 6 inch x 1.25.

Should the entire trap be 1.5 to the adapter or should the trap be 1.25 and inserted into the 1.5 ABS in the wall through the adapter?

Also, the Grohe faucet I chose (http://www.grohecatalogue.ca/product/33170-europlus) comes with flexible supply lines. Should I use them or are rigid lines better?

I'm sorry if these are just the most basic questions. I know I can do all of this, I just need some guidance. It'll be an awesome job once it's done. If y'all think I should be reading a book on how to do all of this instead, I'd be glad to take book suggestions.

Thanks again,
Kim