Frost proof faucet problem

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Dglas

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I had an American Valve frost proof faucet installed last year and it worked fine. Now when I turn it on water comes out of a hole in the stem. The hole appears to be part of the design. I removed the stem and tried to figure out how water gets into the stem. I find that the end with the washer is a spring loaded devise that opens when the faucet is turned on thereby allowing water to enter the stem. The stem appears to be manufactured this way so what holds the water out of the stem?

Does this mean I have a defective stem?
 

Krow

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I have never heard of a frost free hose tap that uses the stem to deliver water. As far as what you described, the spring loaded piece on the end acts as an anti-siphoning device. The entire barrel surrounding the stem is where the water travels out the tap. When you close the tap, the barrel empties on its own. The water is actually being stopped where the washer is (as you may of figured out already).
 

Dglas

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I have never heard of a frost free hose tap that uses the stem to deliver water. As far as what you described, the spring loaded piece on the end acts as an anti-siphoning device. The entire barrel surrounding the stem is where the water travels out the tap. When you close the tap, the barrel empties on its own. The water is actually being stopped where the washer is (as you may of figured out already).

I apparently didn't explain very well. I understand how a frost proof faucet works and am well aware that the water is not delivered thru the stem but in this case that is the problem . When you turn on the water it flows thru the barrel to the faucet but some of it comes thru the stem and out a small hole placed in the stem just ahead of the handle - and squirts you in the eye. The spring loaded piece holds the washer and has nothing to do with the anti-siphoning devise which is on top of the faucet. When the faucet is turned on by backing the washer away from the seat it also can/does spring out and apparently this is the spot that allows water into the stem. At least I can find no other way that water can get into the stem. I went to Lowes and looked at a new one and it is built exactly the same way. I can't figure it out but maybe American Valve can enlighten me.
 

Krow

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The spring loaded piece holds the washer and has nothing to do with the anti-siphoning devise which is on top of the faucet. .
It has everything to do with the antisiphon. The piece ahead of the handle is interconnected to the spring load end of the stem.

pull it apart again and see if any sediment or particles are blocking around the spring and double check the knob above the handle is free af any debris
 
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Dglas

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It has everything to do with the antisiphon. The piece ahead of the
handle is interconnected to the spring load end of the stem.

pull it apart again and see if any sediment or particles are blocking around the spring and double check the knob above the handle is free af any debris

The piece ahead of the handle is the stem. The handle is connected to one end and the spring loaded washer assembly is connected to the opposite end. The anti-siphon devise is not in any way connected to the stem but maybe the operation is somehow dependent on the spring loaded end of the stem. I will check for debris.
 

Krow

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. The anti-siphon devise is not in any way connected to the stem but maybe the operation is somehow dependent on the spring loaded end of the stem. .
Precisely. You may find a pin hole under the antisiphone cap. (its supposed to be there)
 

AnchorPoint

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I am having this exact problem, where water is pouring out of the hole in the stem, on an American Valve frost proof faucet.
It had been working great for a year, then my wife was closing it and water started spraying.

This is the only thread I can seem to find on this issue.
Were you able to find a solution when you contacted them, Dglas?
 

Sam Patel

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The problem is explained perfectly. I am having the exact same issue. The spring loaded end has some sort of thin rubber/cloth type washer on top of which is the copper seat where the replacement shutoff washer (Standard) goes. I now have stopped the spigot from leaking when shut off. But when I use it I get water coming out of the hole just before the handle. HELP! is there a solution.
 

paulgrass

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Has anyone figured this out. I have the same problem. (See images)The first image is the water shooting out the hole, the second image is showing the hole after I shut the water off inside.

American_Valve_01.jpg
American_Valve_02.jpg
 
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1cr_xxx

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I have the same problem. went to lowes, and the employee called American valve for me and they sent me a replacement. Put in the replacement parts, and I still have the same problem. Really would like to know how to fix this seeing as how everyone has this problem.
 

1cr_xxx

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Just sent a message to th company with a link to this thread. Hopefully we will get some answers.
 

hamijohn

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Check the hollow stem for a hairline crack. If you get an early hard freeze with the garden hose still attached, the thin walls of the stem will crack before the thicker outer wall cracks, and the remaining water will have a place to drain (out the little holes in the stem near the handle). Next Spring when you turn the water on, the pressure will be enough to force water through the hairline crack in the hollow stem and you will have the fountain shown above. A temp fix is to wrap the crack with teflon tape then use waterproof cement to coat. For $15 you can buy a new stem. And remember to disconnect the hose in September!
 

hamlet_jones

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Same valve, same problem. Tenant left hose hooked up all winter, and the next thing you know, water is coming out the stem. Replaced, but next time, I'm putting in a waste and drain valve inside the garage, and locking it for winter.
 

Jadnashua

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FWIW, Woodford makes some that will drain, even if you leave a hose on. Cost a little more, but if it saves one service call, it's more than paid for itself.
 

vwli

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My frost-free spigot has the same setup and the same problem. I ended up getting rid of the spring and wrap tape around the sliding end piece. I also added an O-ring to sit between the stem end flange and the sliding metal piece to help the seal. After getting an interference fit between the inner wall of the stem and the surface of the sliding piece (with tape on), push the sliding piece all the way into the stem. (The hardware store fellow suggested using two-part epoxy to bond the sliding piece to the inner wall of the stem permanently to form a seal. But I opt to use tape instead).
I did it today and it has been leak free so far. Knock on wood that the seal will hold.
 
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Quarterball

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All of these posts contain elements of accuracy. When water is flowing out of the sillcock, the spring-loaded end of the stem compresses and seals the hollow stem. In a back flow situation, the spring-loaded end of the stem releases and seals off any water flowing back into the supply line - and - the hole in the stem at the handle end allows air into sillcock to "break" the vacuum that is attempting to pull water back into the supply. There is a good chance replacing the entire unit will save you time and money in the end. We suggest installing a frostproof sillcock that uses a ball valve mechanism to turn the water on and off.
 

Jadnashua

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One thing many people sort of ignore on frost-free silcocks is that on most you do need to remove the hose for them to work (not all) but also, it must be installed with proper slope so water doesn't pool inside...it must all drain out, and that requires slope.
 

Crom_J

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So I ended up on this Thread because I just purchased and installed an American Valve anti-siphon frost free sillcock. My valve started leaking from the hole in the stem an the first test run. I'm pretty pissed off about this. Why should this valve be defective for me and fail for others after a year or two of use as I'm reading on this thread?
 

Aerolp

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So I ended up on this Thread because I just purchased and installed an American Valve anti-siphon frost free sillcock. My valve started leaking from the hole in the stem an the first test run. I'm pretty pissed off about this. Why should this valve be defective for me and fail for others after a year or two of use as I'm reading on this thread?
Hi, I am also having the same issue on a newly installed valve. I am in no mood to replace it again after tearing the inside wall open to do so. Hopefully someone has advice on this. I am thinking there is possibly some sediment causing this.
 
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