washer vent, is this ok?

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Pabs

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hi all

new to this forum... been looking arounf and it seems lkke there's lots of good advice here

here's my situation. I'm in the middle of a bahroom reno
I'm doing the reno in order to put my washer and dryer on the main floor bathroom.

This was the existing plumbing .

before.jpg


I would like to tie in the washer to this system. is branching into like the pic below ok? can they both share the same vent in this manner?

vent.jpg


if so, are there distance minimums/maximums? can I put the inlet for the washer directly below the inlet for the sink? does the height of the washer inlet need to be at a certain height relative to the sink? etc

thanks for taking the time

Pabs
 

Jadnashua

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Note I'm not a pro...technically, since the WM T's into the pipe below the sink, it isn't a vent. You should be able to move it up and use the proper x fitting. Note, the WM drain line needs to be 2", and the sink's line may not be. There's probably some other things involved...wait for the pros. For power, code normally requires a dedicated circuit for the WM, but since it is in a bathroom, that might have to be a GFI. Not sure about that, either, but something to look into.
 

Pabs

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makes sense,

this would be a better design I think.
ventMod.jpg

the washer drain has to be 2 ...but the sink is only 1 1/2" correct?

if hte WM drain has to be 2" then I won't have a choice but to make the whole thing out of 2" pipe I guess....right?


Pabs
 

Winslow

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hi all

new to this forum... been looking arounf and it seems lkke there's lots of good advice here

here's my situation. I'm in the middle of a bahroom reno
I'm doing the reno in order to put my washer and dryer on the main floor bathroom.

This was the existing plumbing .

before.jpg


I would like to tie in the washer to this system. is branching into like the pic below ok? can they both share the same vent in this manner?

vent.jpg


if so, are there distance minimums/maximums? can I put the inlet for the washer directly below the inlet for the sink? does the height of the washer inlet need to be at a certain height relative to the sink? etc

thanks for taking the time

Pabs

This configuration is fine as long as the drain is 2 inch up to the lav drain. The vent above the top tee needs to be 1 1/2 inch. It is a simple wet vent configuration (the section between the W/M drain and the lav drain serves as both the drain for the lav and a (wet) vent for the W/M.
 

Terry

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washer_rough_b.jpg


It depends on the inspector and the local code.
The picture above will pass anywhere.

Or you could wet vent a lav, above the washer in some areas if you leave the pipe 2" until the 2 x 1.5 x 1.5 santee.
The 2" pipe allows wet venting in that case.
 

NHmaster

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It does depend on the inspector and your adopted code. IPC now wants washers dumped into a 3" stack or main.
 

Jimbo

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The UPC does allow connection as shown in your second diagram ( washing machine vented). The trap must be located between 6 and 18 inches above the floor. Length of standpipe must be between 18 and 30 inches.

In your first diagram, the WM is wet vented which is not allowed. Wet venting is limited to 1DFU and 2DFU fixtures. WM is 3DFU. Only exception is that a single bathroom group may be wet vented.
 
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Pabs

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The trap must be located between 6 and 18 inches above the floor.

6 inches, is that done so that you can get at them and clean them out if needed. I assume that's what's it's for.. .can't really figure out why the 18 inch limit though??

Length of standpipe must be between 18 and 30 inches.

when you say length of standpipe between 18 and 30 do you mean the lenght before it reaches the p trap? you are not talking about the overall height of the floor correct? and, just tobe sure, when you speak of the standpipe you refer to the pipe the drain hose goes into correct?


are there any restrictions as to where I can put the connections in reference to one another? in the image below, do the distances C,D and E have an restrictions?
i'm working with limited space, so if I'm able to put them close together that would be great..

vent2.jpg


Pabs
 

Jadnashua

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I think that distance C should be enough to go 6" above the flood plane of the sink, or 42", whichever is higher to make the connection.
 

Pabs

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6" above the sink line or 42"...
what's with the 42? that would be 42 from the T? why o high?
I can swing 6 above... 42 woul be pushing it given the space I'm working in
Pabs
 
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It does depend on the inspector and your adopted code. IPC now wants washers dumped into a 3" stack or main.

Seems like overkill with the new lower volume clothes washers becoming common. My front loader uses 12 gallons/load vs. 44 gallons/load in my old top loader. Are they going after a foaming issue? In engineering design 2" is good for about 8 gpm for self venting flow.
 

hj

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wm

Your original second drawing is one way I have been installing washing machine drains for decades. The third drawing is overkill, and does NOTHING to improve the drainage.
 

Jimbo

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The tie in for the vent must be 6" above the flood rim of the any fixture on the line. That is usually just taken as 42" above the floor. The sink might only be 32" high, but you would have to be 6" above top of the washing machine drum also.
The length of standpipe is the pipe up from the trap.
 

JeffeVerde

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I assume that last stretch of supply line is PEX? Why the foam wrap on the PEX but not the copper?

washer_rough_b.jpg


It depends on the inspector and the local code.
The picture above will pass anywhere.

Or you could wet vent a lav, above the washer in some areas if you leave the pipe 2" until the 2 x 1.5 x 1.5 santee.
The 2" pipe allows wet venting in that case.
 

yesterdayze

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Normally I would think you would need that air vent connection to avoid that being a wet vent since you typically only want to do that with say a sink, shower toilet setup, and even then....

Even if it isn't needed by code where you are, it will still often make a difference in how much fun gurgling noises and exciting smells you get coming up out of the washer pipe after someone fills the sink to the top then pulls the plug and the water passing by pulls all the water out of the washer drain line trap. So the 10 minutes and 7 dollars worth of material may be worth just doing it.

My house was setup just like your original second picture and every once in a while we would get some real charming smells after the sink had been filled up then drained. I added an air vent like you have in the third picture (though it connected higher up) and no more issue.

*JUST OPINION, I am not a plumber, just diy'er - I differ to the experts ;)*
 

NHmaster

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Terry's photo would be the correct way to go about it and will indeed pass just about anywhere with the exception that the IPC would now make you run 3" up to where the washer dumps in. Personally I think it's overkill and I would like to see the documentation of problems that have caused them to make that amendment. Then again it could be because the plastic companies are not selling enough 3 x 2 san tees :rolleyes:
 

Jadnashua

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While the newest WM front loaders use less water by far than the older top loading ones, they tend to dump that water out faster so there's a chance of a backup if you don't go bigger. Depends on how many bends, and what else may drop into that waste line if you'd have a problem; but, if it is big enough, it shouldn't matter. Yes, the hose isn't all that big in diameter, but the dynamics of a pumped verses gravity flow can make a big difference.
 
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