Home Run Plumbing System

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42skidoo

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I have a crawl space that is heated yet I wouldnt go so far as calling it a conditioned space. It is warm enough in the winter to keep pipes from freezing and this presents problems running hot water 70 feet inside the crawl space. I was looking at the home run system and I am under the impression this would prevent me from installing a circ pump or at least make it less effective. My objective is to get hot water to a fixture as quickly as possible. I am also concerned about pressure. I am running off shallow well jet pump and a pressure tank. Is one plumbing system (say branch vs home run) more effective in maintaining pressure than another?
 
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Have you insulated the pipes in the crawl space? It is inexpensive and easy to do. The hot water line will still cool but not nearly as rapidly. They will warm sooner and have less temp loss while flowing. When it has been very long between draws you will still have that 70' slug of cold water to clear before it heats up though.
 

Gary Swart

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I think the best way to accomplish what you want is a recirculation pump. This will provide virtually instant hot water. You should insulate all of your hot water pipes to cut heat loss as a matter of principal. I use a Laing pump which requires a return line from the fixture furthest from the water heater. These can be set on a timer, but I choose to run mine 24/7. It's been perfect for about 4 or 5 years.
 
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I think the best way to accomplish what you want is a recirculation pump. This will provide virtually instant hot water. You should insulate all of your hot water pipes to cut heat loss as a matter of principal. I use a Laing pump which requires a return line from the fixture furthest from the water heater. These can be set on a timer, but I choose to run mine 24/7. It's been perfect for about 4 or 5 years.

Gary,

Do you have any feel for what the losses have been from recirculating vs. not (as in comparing to appropriate months of the prior year?)
 

Gary Swart

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No idea. The pump motor is very small and has a low power draw, but as to how much a affects my power bill, I don't know and really don't care. There wasn't a huge spike in the bill when I started using it, and the luxury of instant hot water is worth a small amount to me. Installing the return line was easy as I have an open basement with very easy access to the plumbing. A little copper pipe, a few fitting, and a couple of valves was all it took. I get the pump on E***y at a very reasonable price and the air bleeder was purchased locally for not much. There is bound to be some heat loss from the pipes even though they are insulated, but I wouldn't know where to begin to determine how much loss or how much it costs.
 

hj

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pump

When the hot water arrives at the fixture, the valve closes and stops the circulation. At that point the motor is slipping/idling and drawing even less current than when moving the water.
 

42skidoo

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These can be set on a timer, but I choose to run mine 24/7. It's been perfect for about 4 or 5 years.[/QUOTE]

I like the timer idea. I assume you circulating the hot water through 1/2" lines?
 

42skidoo

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Have you insulated the pipes in the crawl space? It is inexpensive and easy to do. The hot water line will still cool but not nearly as rapidly. They will warm sooner and have less temp loss while flowing. When it has been very long between draws you will still have that 70' slug of cold water to clear before it heats up though.

I have not installed any insulation yet. Good idea and an inexpensive way to keep the water hot in the pipes. I have a shipment of EPS comming in the spring for my roof so I will factor in pipe insulation requirements too.
 

surgeonplumbing

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check it proper way again from start to end, because might be there is problem line which is installed for hot water, if there is problem with one then it will generete same problem in winter season.

Check it in proper way and try to reinstalled it again.
 
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