Need Help adding Vent...

Users who are viewing this thread

Thinkly

Member
Messages
51
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
Kansas
Since i moved into my home 10 years ago, there has always been a vent that was blocked behind my suspended ceiling. Recently i decided to unblock it but immediately ran into trouble.

My biggest problem is that i can't find a piece to go from the hole in the supply duct to the vent. It is about 2" from the face of the supply duct to the face of the ceiling tile that will be put in there. Everything i have found in stores is the wrong length. Another problem is that the hole is above the top of the top track of the ceiling, so in other words it will hit the tracking on the ceiling. (see pic)

2892824048_5225176128_m.jpg

2891986107_df1e0e1f9b_m.jpg
 

Mikebarone

DIY Senior Member
Messages
206
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Just a thought...

Cap off the existing hole, (with sheet metal). Cut a hole in the bottom of the duct work, and install a vent there?
I don't know how far the existing vent was pushing the air, (towards the camera). If it isn't too far, you could almost put a air return vent type grill in, that would direct the air in that direction...(towards the camera).


Mike
 
Last edited:

Thinkly

Member
Messages
51
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
Kansas
Cap off the existing hole, (with sheet metal). Cut a hole in the bottom of the duct work, and install a vent there?
I don't know how far the existing vent was pushing the air, (towards the camera). If it isn't too far, you could almost put a air return vent type grill in, that would direct the air in that direction...(towards the camera).


Mike

The vent is about 15 feet from the furnace unit. Still even if i cut a hole in the bottom i still have to bridge the 2" gap between the face of the supply duct and the face of the ceiling tile.
 

Mikebarone

DIY Senior Member
Messages
206
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Phoenix, AZ
OK...here's another one...

The vent is about 15 feet from the furnace unit. Still even if i cut a hole in the bottom i still have to bridge the 2" gap between the face of the supply duct and the face of the ceiling tile.


I am not sure if I am following you as far as you 2†problem, (face of duct to ceiling tile). Could you lower the top of the existing opening, (with a strip of sheet metal) and then fur out the entire face of the duct work with 2â€x3â€s, (screw and glue). If you can find a vent that is just as wide, but like 2†shorter, that might give you the clearance you need on the top. I would find the vent first, and then build the frame work, (furring) to fit it. The furring strips would give you something to nail your drywall, (or whetever) on to. I would coat the inside of the 2x3’s (that will be the extension for you vent) with something like silicone, or duct seal, to keep them from absorbing any moisture.

Mike
 

Attachments

  • 2892824048_5225176128_m.jpg
    2892824048_5225176128_m.jpg
    45.1 KB · Views: 693

Thinkly

Member
Messages
51
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
Kansas
Interesting proposal. Are you saying to glue, screw the furring strips directly onto the sheet metal of the duct work and then slide something in behind the suspended ceiling framework to screw to it?
 

Mikebarone

DIY Senior Member
Messages
206
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Yeah

Interesting proposal. Are you saying to glue, screw the furring strips directly onto the sheet metal of the duct work and then slide something in behind the suspended ceiling framework to screw to it?

Yeah, that’s what I was thinking…to screw and glue it directly to the duct work, (and even to the sides of the hallway). As far as the suspended ceiling, it should have the, “L” track going all around the perimeters. The “L” track is usually put on after the drywall, so just make sure that you have a furring strip behind the drywall, where the, “L” track will be nailed on to the drywall.

Mike
 

Thinkly

Member
Messages
51
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Location
Kansas
Very good. Now back to the 2" space question....what i am asking is "what do i run from the duct opening to the vent? I need something that ends up being the size of the eventual hole in the duct supply and then the same size as the vent on the other end.

I found a lot of pieces in Lowe's that will go from a sqaure hole to a square hole and even with the right sizes but they are all sheet metal and too long. Many of them are 10" long or more and i only need to span about 2".

EDIT> Maybe what you are actually describing here, i won't need anything because the firring will be the bridge between. I think i get it now...sorry for being a little slow.
 

Mikebarone

DIY Senior Member
Messages
206
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Very good. Now back to the 2" space question....what i am asking is "what do i run from the duct opening to the vent? I need something that ends up being the size of the eventual hole in the duct supply and then the same size as the vent on the other end.

I found a lot of pieces in Lowe's that will go from a sqaure hole to a square hole and even with the right sizes but they are all sheet metal and too long. Many of them are 10" long or more and i only need to span about 2".

EDIT> Maybe what you are actually describing here, i won't need anything because the firring will be the bridge between. I think i get it now...sorry for being a little slow.


Yep…the 2x3’s will be the 2â€, (really 2-1/2…the true measurement of the 3 inch part of a 2x3) to bring your vent out. Like I said before; find the correct size vent first, and then you can frame the furring accordingly to fit the vent. You didn’t say if the “L†track will work on this set up…hope it will!
Find a glue or silicone that will work on wood / metal to secure the furring to the duct work.
Remember that after you add drywall to the furring strips, you wil have a total of 3 inches from the face of the existing duct work, to the outside face of the new vent.

Mike
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks