Where can I get a Bradford White gas water heater to install myself?

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scrunchielaura

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That "old looking" gas valve, what is it made of? Is it pot metal which is not (any longer?) on the gas plumbing approved materials list in the UPC? Someplace I've also read that valves of that old design should be replaced with a (gas approved) proper ball valve.

What type of connection is on the gas valve? NPT, or a built in flare end? To the pros here: I know that flex line cannot be reused (due to metal fatigue issues), but can flare fittings (adapters, valves) be reused? Is the possibility of metal galling high enough that such fittings shouldn't be reused?

Why is one earthquake strap anchored close together and the other far apart? It seems like the lower strap wouldn't work very well. Did the instructions recommend that? The engineer in me thinks the straps should go 360 degrees around the heater before hooking to the wall. (I've never dealt with strapping even though I'm in the land of shake, rattle and roll - my water heater was tested extensively 18.5 years ago and it did fine without strapping.)
 

Mikey

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I would have tried to arrange a high loop in the hot water line, but otherwise it looks great!
 

WestcoastPlumber

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Spring loaded gas shut off, not legal.


Flexed in an expansion tank??? and then supported it with ladder hooks:confused:


That thing just looks like crap. And people wonder why we charge so much. I don't see where the T&P dump at?? Why is the gas flex in a knot??

Job security.

I would love to know if it gets signed off.........get back to us:D

A for effort but as a Professional, I am feeling insulted.
 
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gnatlee

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Ahh, the insults and sarcasm continues. This is great. Anyhow, I applied for a permit today and will get an inspection soon and will let you guys know if I pass. If not, i'll definitely make the required changes. That's if I don't blow up before the inspection.

Yes, I do admit that the ladder hook looks a bit ghetto, but it does its job. As for the sesmic strap, the upper own is the original and were bolted onto studs behind the water heater, hence it could go around the heater better. The lower one, which is the newer one had to be bolted to the studs closest to the heater. I should have bolted them before the water heater was in its final place. But looking at the directions on the strap packaging I basically did as they showed, and it is at least 4 inches from the controls.

The gas valve is 25 years old, so it might have to be updated. But I looked at my neighbors' valve, to a newly installed water heater by a professional...was the same as mine. I'll let the city inspector be the judge.

I know it doesn't look professional, and I wasn't going for that either. It sure won't win any plumbing award, but then again I'm not a plumber. So go ahead with the sarcasm, I think I've thicken my skin through this thread.

And there isn't any knots anywhere, just might look that way in the pics.
 

gnatlee

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Redwood,

I didn't put in drip leg because the old one nor that neighbor's new heater(professionally installed) didn't have one. I've read online that southern california's gas is dry and clean enough to not require one. again city inspector will tell me when they come to do inspection.

I think I've gotten off on the wrong side with a lot of people on this site. But thanks for the critiques, because I am learning from you all.
 

Gear Junkie

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Ben,

PVC is not legal because of the HEAT.

You can use CPVC though.

Think about this Robert, pvc is rated up to 140 deg pressurized-this comes from charoltte pipe company. A t/p relief drain line is under no pressure and let's say that the water comes out at 212 degrees. How long does a t/p blow off typically? Not very long. I'm not saying you're wrong and I think we both would agree that copper is the only way to go. The point I was making is that the original poster seemed to proudly point out the ignorance of a "licensed plumber" and how he knew better. I think the plumber wouldn't win any points with a pvc relief pipe but did he cause a hazardous situation. I don't think so. Thanks for listening.
 

WestcoastPlumber

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The gas valve is 25 years old, so it might have to be updated. But I looked at my neighbors' valve, to a newly installed water heater by a professional...was the same as mine. I'll let the city inspector be the judge.

QUOTE]

If the inspector is any good, he will catch the tank and the spring loaded gas shut off.

You need to have a "Code Cock", which is a gas crv or gas ball valve. the spring loaded ones are not permitted any longer.

As for the other professional leaving the old gas shut off on for your neighbor, well he made a mistake.

I can tell you I always change mine.;):D Besides, they come with the gas flex lines :D at ferguson, no additional charge;)
 

WestcoastPlumber

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Think about this Robert, pvc is rated up to 140 deg pressurized-this comes from charoltte pipe company. A t/p relief drain line is under no pressure and let's say that the water comes out at 212 degrees. How long does a t/p blow off typically? Not very long. I'm not saying you're wrong and I think we both would agree that copper is the only way to go. The point I was making is that the original poster seemed to proudly point out the ignorance of a "licensed plumber" and how he knew better. I think the plumber wouldn't win any points with a pvc relief pipe but did he cause a hazardous situation. I don't think so. Thanks for listening.

You have a valid point there Ben, PVC is rated at 140. Now, what is a t&p rated at??? much higher then that;) like 180 degrees or something.
 

Redwood

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gnatlee

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One thing that came to mind today...

If a licensed plumber were to replace a water heater, do they pull a city permit also?
 

Redwood

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It depends on the juristictions. In your area a permit is required and one should be pulled.
 

Cass

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Now tell me what your incoming water pressure is and what the pressure was in your expansion tank when you installed it.

Did you get rid of the illegal gas valve you used?

Is the dirt/drip leg installed on the gas line yet?
 
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Jimbo

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I can't see the back side of the heater. lIf the heater is not butted against the back wall, or snugged up against a spacer, then the inspector will want the straps wrapped 360 around the heater. Especially that lower strap, which I might have tried to find the next stud closer to the heater.

Despite some guffaws, you basically comply with codes, but an inspector may take a very very close look at all parts of the obvious amateur install. Best of luck. Don't stress, just get it inspected, and if he gigs you on something, just fix it and get on with life.
 

Verdeboy

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I was recently called to figure out why a lady had no hot water in her (very old and dilapidated) trailer she had just purchased. Turned out there were two very old and frozen ball valves that diverted water away from the HW tank, and they were stuck in the "bypass" position.

The guy who moved her trailer had hooked up her propane line and fired up the tank and then left it heating with no water in it. The tank got so hot that the insulation had begun to burn. She was lucky her trailer didn't burn down.
 
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gnatlee

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still waiting for my permit. I'll call about it tomorrow. It have only taken at most three days from Monday.
 
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