Re: preventing plumbing freeze up

Posted by Deb on March 17, 2004 at 20:24:32:
In response to Re: preventing plumbing freeze up
: I have a small cabin in Colorado. I need to replace a buried water pressure tank. I plan to build a concrete insulated inclosure for the tank and a water filter. The inclosure will be buried in a pit at ground level. I am concerned about leaving the cabin in the winter for 2-3 weeks at a time and leaving the water on and not winterizing the cabin against freezing. The cabin has a crawl space but the space is so limited that if things freeze it would be impossible to fix from under the house. It is a pretty big deal to winterize the cabin. I was told that a light bulb would put off enough heat to keep the water tank from freezing. But we have trouble losing electrical power to the area. Is there a very small propane heater that would have a pilot and a thermostat that could be placed in the inclosure that would take care of this? I am just grasping at straws and I feel this is not a unique problem. I wonder if someone knows how this problem is usually handled. : I also need advice on what size pressure tank I need to get the most pressure. The cabin is 700 sq. feet and has 2 baths, a kitchen, a washer/dryer and a dishwasher. What should I set the pressure valve on to get maximum pressure. : Thank you for your time---Jim Hesser I live in the mountains of Idaho. Freezing is a big problem here also. I can say that I believe that it is folly to leave your water on at all during a 2-3 week absence, winter or summer. I would be trying to figure out some kind of easy winterization system. For instance, you can install a Schrader valve at the water heater to facilitate blowing out the lines with drains at the pressure tank or where needed. Talk to a plumber in the area. If you live and work in a climate like this with alot of part-time cabins, you get good at figuring out easy winterization methods. I always advise people to get as large a pressure tank as they have room for and can afford. The life of a pump is measured by how many times it turns on. The less your pump has to turn on, the longer it will last. Your pressure is determined by your pressure switch, not the tank. The air in the tank is set 2#s lower than the kick on pressure on the switch. I like a 40-60 pressure switch. With a 40-60, the air in the tank should be 38#s. Be sure to put a drain and a pressure relief valve on the pressure tank set up. A fabricated safety cross tee makes this easy. It comes with 2 1/2" ports for the drain and relief valve and 1 1/4" ports for the pressure gauge and switch. Deb The Pipewench

Posted by Deb on March 17, 2004 at 20:24:32:

In response to Re: preventing plumbing freeze up

: I have a small cabin in Colorado. I need to replace a buried water pressure tank. I plan to build a concrete insulated inclosure for the tank and a water filter. The inclosure will be buried in a pit at ground level. I am concerned about leaving the cabin in the winter for 2-3 weeks at a time and leaving the water on and not winterizing the cabin against freezing. The cabin has a crawl space but the space is so limited that if things freeze it would be impossible to fix from under the house. It is a pretty big deal to winterize the cabin. I was told that a light bulb would put off enough heat to keep the water tank from freezing. But we have trouble losing electrical power to the area. Is there a very small propane heater that would have a pilot and a thermostat that could be placed in the inclosure that would take care of this? I am just grasping at straws and I feel this is not a unique problem. I wonder if someone knows how this problem is usually handled.
: I also need advice on what size pressure tank I need to get the most pressure. The cabin is 700 sq. feet and has 2 baths, a kitchen, a washer/dryer and a dishwasher. What should I set the pressure valve on to get maximum pressure.
: Thank you for your time---Jim Hesser

I live in the mountains of Idaho. Freezing is a big problem here also. I can say that I believe that it is folly to leave your water on at all during a 2-3 week absence, winter or summer. I would be trying to figure out some kind of easy winterization system. For instance, you can install a Schrader valve at the water heater to facilitate blowing out the lines with drains at the pressure tank or where needed. Talk to a plumber in the area. If you live and work in a climate like this with alot of part-time cabins, you get good at figuring out easy winterization methods.
I always advise people to get as large a pressure tank as they have room for and can afford. The life of a pump is measured by how many times it turns on. The less your pump has to turn on, the longer it will last. Your pressure is determined by your pressure switch, not the tank. The air in the tank is set 2#s lower than the kick on pressure on the switch. I like a 40-60 pressure switch. With a 40-60, the air in the tank should be 38#s. Be sure to put a drain and a pressure relief valve on the pressure tank set up. A fabricated safety cross tee makes this easy. It comes with 2 1/2" ports for the drain and relief valve and 1 1/4" ports for the pressure gauge and switch.
Deb
The Pipewench

Replies to this post

Re: preventing plumbing freeze up hj 08:59:18 03/20/04(0)