Re: Thanks Greg...a little more advice?
Posted by Greg on January 01, 2004 at 21:26:17:
In response to Re: Thanks Greg...a little more advice?

It's late, but I'm back and I'll respond in the morning. So as to avoid abusing Terry's site, feel free to send future info to my email address:

Just make sure to put something like "Toms_Plumbing_Problem" in the subject so I don't delete it. Until then...Greg

: Towards the right or upstream to the initial - - The first item in the line is a toilet, then a separate shower, 2 vanity sink, a garden tub (why does everyone have one and no one uses it?)

: The wye that is immediately following the leaky sanitary T comes from another double vanity.

: I do not know how old some of the piping in this area is. 1987 house. I do know that the first owners of this house (I'm 3rd) had major issues in way of the garden tub...can tell because of bad ceiling patch directly underneath the tub area.

: I have not yet started making my hole on the other side of the cabinets that you see in the first picture. Those cabinets are suspended from a hollow drywall box from the ceiling. The drain works along the back wall and crosses that hollow drywalled box at right angles. That is why I have to cut on the other side and have a slightly larger insert if that is the way I probably will have to.

: To install a proper wye into that drain line, I am assuming that will involve coming straight down from the closet flange a short distance and then kicking off on a 45 and tieing in a little further downstream? That will be a rough trick perhaps with that existing wye...I might be misunderstanding you there.

: I've updated with another pic looking right and have posted our exchange underneath it for easy reference and appreciate your help in ways I cannot explain.

: Tom

: : Tom,

: : Good job getting some pix to your website; I can see where your one toilet drops into a sanitary T. I'm guessing some of this is newer than the original pvc, yes? I say that based on what looks like older pvc towards the back. Not real important, but it makes me wonder why the joint failed. I'm guessing whoever glued it didn't let it set and it pushed itself out before setting. Whenever I glue pvc joints, I now wait 30 real seconds (excessive, but...) before releasing because I've had joints start walking apart.

: : The sanitary T related to your leaking joint is against code; it should have been a wye, although, that is not the reason for it failing, as your suspicion seems correct. If it were mine, I'd want that changed to a wye eventually.

: : 1. Upstream from here is your other toilet?
: : 2. If that is correct, is there anything connected upstream besides the other toilet? If not, and it is a straight run to your other closet flange, then your predicament shouldn't be too bad.

: : Without seeing your layout in person, cutting out your present T and installing a wye to the left of it would be ideal.
: : 3. The coupling to the left of your leak/arrow- Is that your wye, or 45 as you called it? And that keeps going left?
: : 4. A photo looking right could help, since left doesn't sound like it has much to offer based on your previous descriptions.

: : Gotta run for now, but I'll check your post early tomorrow morning. I see a glimmer of hope, but dealing with plumbing always packs surprises. Talk to you soon...Greg
: :

: : : : Greg,

: : : First attempt did not work, I posted them to a web page I just made at

: : : It's not fancy, but it conveys the problem I think.

: : :
: : : : Thanks for your patience. I checked that website and will see if anyone local carries..not according to their website. I would MUCH prefer to have a pro do it but just bought an engagement ring last week....SO, things are tight at best.
: : : : I've tried to attach a picture to this post and we will see if it works.

: : : : Tom,

: : : : : If I correctly envision what you describe, you need to seriously consider a licensed plumber in your area; that is your best, permanent solution. If you are unable to do that financially at this time, I would try a repair using something like plastaid ( I can't verify that it works, only that it's an option to try at least temporarily.

: : : : : When I mentioned a picture, I meant uploading a picture to Terry's website, which can be done. Greg

: : : : : : Greg, I have two bathrooms on second floor. 3" drain line starts at a toilet passes a shower tub and 2 sinks and into the other bathroom. Where the drain line picks up the 2nd bathroom closet flange is the leak. The leak is in the T where the closet flange drops into the drain line. It appears that not enough pipe was seated inside the T. The problem is there is a 45 into the drain line about 10" past the culprit for the sinks which is going to make for some fancy coupling on that side. I'd rather not tear out the 45 and it's run from the sinks because of the way the flooring and beams are...nightmare.

: : : : : : I have to insert a few feet because of a beam and cabinets attached to the ceiling on the other side of the bad joint. My worry is how to make GOOD couplings on either side of the new insert without trying to force old piping to catch the overlap you need to seat a typical coupling. That is what attracted me to the flexible coupling idea.

: : : : : : I hope that gives you a clearer's hard for me to put it into words and my art work is considerably worse.

: : : : : : REALLY appreciate your patience and continued help.

: : : : : : : Tom,

: : : : : : : CPVC you can flex enough to gain some clearance, but 3" pipe, unlikely.
: : : : : : :
: : : : : : : I don't have a clear picture of what you've got, but you mention a drop from a closet flange. If the piece you're looking to replace connects (unbranched) to your toilet, I'd pull the toilet, then repipe from your leak to a new closet flange.

: : : : : : : If this doesn't help or won't work, try posting a picture of your dilemma so we can get a better look. We'll be watching...
: : : : : : : Greg

: : : : : : : : Can you offer any other way to splice into an existing albeit old 3" line? Should I risk making existing piping bend for that moment that I need to make up that slack?

: : : : : : : : Thanks so much for your help,

: : : : : : : : Tom

: : : : : : : : : Troubled Tom,

: : : : : : : : : I've used the rubber couplings of which you speak, although my rule is only to use them where access is always available (although sometimes difficult) for servicing/inspection. Personally, I just don't trust them completely.

: : : : : : : : : On the flip side of that, though, I'm currently witnessing large commercial buildings go up that use hords of these couplings (mission style - with the metal bands around the rubber inner). Some codes allow similar couplings to be buried. But, if you don't mind running the risk of redoing some drywall down the road, it could work well enough, they're just not as permanent or "comforting" as a glued joint, which is always preferred. Good Luck. Greg

: : : : : : : : : : I posted a few days before Christmas about a leaking joint that wiped out some drywall in my kitchen before a party. You suggested (as I figured I needed to) that I replace. Here's my question:
: : : : : : : : : : How good are flexible drain couplings? I am going to have to insert about 6 linear feet into my second floor drain line including a drop from a closet flange. To make a solid connection on each end will require me to couple one end into existing 3" pipe near another fitting and work my way to the other. To do it right, I will have about a 1" overlap to make sure it makes up solid if I use a typical coupling. You and I both know I can't bend 3" pipe enough to make that up. I also am sure that if I try to move existing plumbing that 1" to get it right, something will give...I just feel it. I found a rubber "flexible coupling" made by PlumbQwik I think that promises permanent coupling. Is this the answer or do you have a better suggestion?

: : : : : : : : : : Thanks in advance!

: : : : : : : : : : Tom Payne

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