Re: Thanks Greg...a little more advice?
Posted by Tom on January 01, 2004 at 14:10:40:
In response to Re: Thanks Greg...a little more advice?
: Greg,

First attempt did not work, I posted them to a web page I just made at http://home.earthlink.net/~unlimitedoceans/id2.html

It's not fancy, but it conveys the problem I think.


: Thanks for your patience. I checked that website and will see if anyone local carries..not according to their website. I would MUCH prefer to have a pro do it but just bought an engagement ring last week....SO, things are tight at best.
: I've tried to attach a picture to this post and we will see if it works.

: Tom,

: : If I correctly envision what you describe, you need to seriously consider a licensed plumber in your area; that is your best, permanent solution. If you are unable to do that financially at this time, I would try a repair using something like plastaid (http://www.plast-aid.com/). I can't verify that it works, only that it's an option to try at least temporarily.

: : When I mentioned a picture, I meant uploading a picture to Terry's website, which can be done. Greg

: : : Greg, I have two bathrooms on second floor. 3" drain line starts at a toilet passes a shower tub and 2 sinks and into the other bathroom. Where the drain line picks up the 2nd bathroom closet flange is the leak. The leak is in the T where the closet flange drops into the drain line. It appears that not enough pipe was seated inside the T. The problem is there is a 45 into the drain line about 10" past the culprit for the sinks which is going to make for some fancy coupling on that side. I'd rather not tear out the 45 and it's run from the sinks because of the way the flooring and beams are...nightmare.

: : : I have to insert a few feet because of a beam and cabinets attached to the ceiling on the other side of the bad joint. My worry is how to make GOOD couplings on either side of the new insert without trying to force old piping to catch the overlap you need to seat a typical coupling. That is what attracted me to the flexible coupling idea.

: : : I hope that gives you a clearer picture...it's hard for me to put it into words and my art work is considerably worse.

: : : REALLY appreciate your patience and continued help.

: : : : Tom,

: : : : CPVC you can flex enough to gain some clearance, but 3" pipe, unlikely.
: : : :
: : : : I don't have a clear picture of what you've got, but you mention a drop from a closet flange. If the piece you're looking to replace connects (unbranched) to your toilet, I'd pull the toilet, then repipe from your leak to a new closet flange.

: : : : If this doesn't help or won't work, try posting a picture of your dilemma so we can get a better look. We'll be watching...
: : : : Greg

: : : : : Can you offer any other way to splice into an existing albeit old 3" line? Should I risk making existing piping bend for that moment that I need to make up that slack?

: : : : : Thanks so much for your help,

: : : : : Tom

: : : : : : Troubled Tom,

: : : : : : I've used the rubber couplings of which you speak, although my rule is only to use them where access is always available (although sometimes difficult) for servicing/inspection. Personally, I just don't trust them completely.

: : : : : : On the flip side of that, though, I'm currently witnessing large commercial buildings go up that use hords of these couplings (mission style - with the metal bands around the rubber inner). Some codes allow similar couplings to be buried. But, if you don't mind running the risk of redoing some drywall down the road, it could work well enough, they're just not as permanent or "comforting" as a glued joint, which is always preferred. Good Luck. Greg

: : : : : : : I posted a few days before Christmas about a leaking joint that wiped out some drywall in my kitchen before a party. You suggested (as I figured I needed to) that I replace. Here's my question:
: : : : : : : How good are flexible drain couplings? I am going to have to insert about 6 linear feet into my second floor drain line including a drop from a closet flange. To make a solid connection on each end will require me to couple one end into existing 3" pipe near another fitting and work my way to the other. To do it right, I will have about a 1" overlap to make sure it makes up solid if I use a typical coupling. You and I both know I can't bend 3" pipe enough to make that up. I also am sure that if I try to move existing plumbing that 1" to get it right, something will give...I just feel it. I found a rubber "flexible coupling" made by PlumbQwik I think that promises permanent coupling. Is this the answer or do you have a better suggestion?

: : : : : : : Thanks in advance!

: : : : : : : Tom Payne




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