|Posted by Tom on December 31, 2003 at 17:54:56:|
|In response to Re: Thanks Greg...a little more advice?|
Greg, I have two bathrooms on second floor. 3" drain line starts at a toilet passes a shower tub and 2 sinks and into the other bathroom. Where the drain line picks up the 2nd bathroom closet flange is the leak. The leak is in the T where the closet flange drops into the drain line. It appears that not enough pipe was seated inside the T. The problem is there is a 45 into the drain line about 10" past the culprit for the sinks which is going to make for some fancy coupling on that side. I'd rather not tear out the 45 and it's run from the sinks because of the way the flooring and beams are...nightmare.
I have to insert a few feet because of a beam and cabinets attached to the ceiling on the other side of the bad joint. My worry is how to make GOOD couplings on either side of the new insert without trying to force old piping to catch the overlap you need to seat a typical coupling. That is what attracted me to the flexible coupling idea.
I hope that gives you a clearer picture...it's hard for me to put it into words and my art work is considerably worse.
REALLY appreciate your patience and continued help.
: CPVC you can flex enough to gain some clearance, but 3" pipe, unlikely.
: If this doesn't help or won't work, try posting a picture of your dilemma so we can get a better look. We'll be watching...
: : Can you offer any other way to splice into an existing albeit old 3" line? Should I risk making existing piping bend for that moment that I need to make up that slack?
: : Thanks so much for your help,
: : Tom
: : : Troubled Tom,
: : : I've used the rubber couplings of which you speak, although my rule is only to use them where access is always available (although sometimes difficult) for servicing/inspection. Personally, I just don't trust them completely.
: : : On the flip side of that, though, I'm currently witnessing large commercial buildings go up that use hords of these couplings (mission style - with the metal bands around the rubber inner). Some codes allow similar couplings to be buried. But, if you don't mind running the risk of redoing some drywall down the road, it could work well enough, they're just not as permanent or "comforting" as a glued joint, which is always preferred. Good Luck. Greg
: : : : I posted a few days before Christmas about a leaking joint that wiped out some drywall in my kitchen before a party. You suggested (as I figured I needed to) that I replace. Here's my question:
: : : : Thanks in advance!
: : : : Tom Payne
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