Re: Follow Up to Galvanized to CPVC or PEX
Posted by Deb on December 09, 2003 at 11:08:03:
In response to Re: Follow Up to Galvanized to CPVC or PEX
: I posted a follow up to my original post, but it's so far down the list, I don't know if anyone will see it. I apologize for reposting here, but I wanted to get verification that I was going to be doing the right thing. I am helping a friend remodel her bathroom. In the process we will be replacing most of her galvanized plumbing with PEX or CPVC. Her main water supply line is galvanized. Where it comes into the crawlspace under her house, it comes up out of the ground at a 90 degree angle to just under the subfloor. A "T" joint allows for a hose spigot at the front of the house, and the other end runs back to the water heater and to supply the other cold water faucets.

: Based on Deb's and Terry's responses, I *think* I know what I now need to do, but I want to verify, so if you'll bear with me and my "novice-ness" I'll appreciate it.

: 1. First, I need to dig down inside the crawlspace to where the galvanized supply line comes in under the house.

: 2. Where it turns 90 degrees to come up is where I will want to install a new fitting.

: 3. I will need to cut (I assume?) the current galvanized line after the 90 degree turn and then unscrew the pipe above the existing galvanized elbow. If I cannot budge the joint using a wrench, I should use a blowtorch to loosen the joint (I saw this info while researching a much earlier post on this board). I then remove the galvanized elbow as well.

: 4. After removing the old galvanized elbow, I install a new CPVC elbow with a fitting that can screw onto the outside of the galvanized supply line.

: 5. On the other end of the CPVC elbow, I install a CPVC fitting that allows me to connect to a copper line. The fittings I saw at Home Depot can be solvent welded to the CPVC on one end and then have a screw-type adapter on other end that I assume is unscrewed, welded to copper, and then screwed back in. Question - do I use teflon tape or some sort of other sealer on the threaded connection? Also, I assume a "six inch nipple" is just a short piece of copper pipe? I know I may sound stupid, but I want to ask the dumb question to be safe.

: 6. So after welding the 6" copper nipple to the screw type adapter, I screw the adapter to the threaded male connector from the CPVC.

: 7. Then I screw the brass nipple to an IPS ball valve that has screw type fitting. Another dumb question - what is an IPS ball valve? I found a 3/4 inch and a 1 inch copper stop and waste ball valve. Will that do the trick, or should I be looking for something else?

: 8. Then on the other end of the shut off valve, I screw in CPVC pipe with the proper fitting and then continue from there.

: Question - would it be a good idea to install a pressure regulator after the shut off valve? There is not currently anywhere in the system that I have found.

: So it looks like if I do all of that correctly, I can then pick up with the CPVC and work on replumbing the existing galvanized plumbing in the crawlspace.

: Any ideas on the chances of breaking the galvanized pipe when I attempt to unscrew it at the elbow? I will do my best to locate a plumber we can keep on standby in the event that happens.

: Thanks for all of your help.


You've got some problems here on #5 and 6. You need to decide on a material here and go with it. I don't really understand where the copper comes in??? I have never seen a sweat CPVC fitting. Stick with brass threaded nipples.
An IPS ball valve is a ball valve with threads. Do no use the stop and waste you described, it is most likely not a full port valve. Every home improvement store carries full port ball valves. The CPVC threaded fittings need to be the ones with brass threads, not plastic threads. Use TEFLON pipe dope and/or teflon tape on all threaded connections.
You only need apressure regulator if the pressure is in excess of 80 psi. If you install a pressure reducer, you will need an expansion tank installed at the water heater location.
Anytime you are working with old galv, there is a chance you will break things. You ALWAYS need to use 2 wrenches. One to hold the pipe or fitting that is "staying there" and one to turn out the pipe or fitting that is being removed.
Deb
The Pipewench
Deb
The Pipewench




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