Re: Trowelled cement shower
Posted by Sean on December 12, 2002 at 22:05:48:
In response to Re: Trowelled cement shower
: : I would like some advise as to what should go underneath
: : my cement if I want to make it leak-proof
: : Should I lay a solid sheet of lead and have the
: : drain come through the middle?
: : How do you attach the lead to the floor without
: : puting holes in it?

: : Any advise would be great

: Hey Eric
: This is what I do. Go to a tile supply house or just go to Lowes and get their rubber underlayment. At my Lowes they have it on a roll that you just tell them how much you need. It comes in 5ft. by whatever length you need. Measure the sq footage of the shower floor and then add 6-8 inches on all sides. If it comes out more than 5ft on the width your can buy rubber underlayment glue to add to the width. Make sure floor is clean of all debris. On the drain I buy a drain that is used for the rubber underlayment installation. It is an adjustable height drain that has a collar thats bolts down over the underlayment. The bottom half is installed to your drain pipe at floor level. Then the underlayment is installed in the shower area. Form it to fit the surrounding area and the wrap it up your walls at least 6 inches up the walls. This part is tricky because the underlayment has to be folded tigthly in the corners. I use 1 inch galvanized roofing nails to secure the underlayment to the studs at the very top. Hopefully you will be using Durock on the walls so your Durock will be installed over the top of the underlayment that wraps up the walls 6-8 inches. Make sure your underlayment wraps all the way over the shower curb too. When you install the Durock over the folded corners use like 2 and a half inch course exterior screws in the corners. The screws will help pull the Durock down tight in the lower corners. Back to the drain... find the center of the drain by feeling through the rubber. Carefully with a sharp knife cut out the hole,just the drain hole. Where the bolts go through just make a small slit for the bolt to go through. Just to be safe i use some silicone chaulk around these bolts and the new hole that you have cut. Place the collar on and then tighten the bolts. So now the underlayment is sandwhiched between the bottom and the top of the drain. All thats left is too adjust the height of your drain, mix your cement and pour. If you've never done this before mix your concrete very dry. It will be easier to pack and shape it like you want it. Make sure you have enough drop so your new floor will drain properly. Its been kinda hard to explain this but if you have any questions you can email me at Seanskate@aol.com or vwbuzzbomb@hotmail.com
: Good Luck,
: Sean

I forgot to add that the drain assembly I use comes from Home Depot in the Shower Drain/Shower Door area. Its alot better looking than the one from Lowes plus a few bucks cheaper. It is made by Oatey.


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