|Posted by Philip on November 04, 2002 at 22:02:20:|
|In response to Re: Brass Toilet Flange Removal|
I just did what you are planning. I ended up ripping up my floor and putting a subfloor in and setting the tile on CBU. I also had a flange that was too high (I try to build up th subfloor but was off a little bit). I ended up cheating by cutting a tile the shape of the bottom of the toilet and attaching it to the bottom of the toilet. Once chalked, it is not noticable. Am I recommending this? It works but no. What I suggest is if the floor is in good shape and the existing tile is well attached, I would tile over it and raise the door threshold. This is my plan for the second bath I am currently doing. As for the flange, if necessary use a thicker wax ring if it is too low. You will save yourself alot of work and you won't have to worry about the subfloor being level (mine wasn't).
It also could be that you are not appling the heat long enough. When I unsolder my two inch drain, it took forever for it to get hot enough to seperate the pipes. Significantly longer then to resolder. With a three or 4 inch copper it would only be worse.
: I have an older house with copper waste as well as supply. I'm remodeling a bathroom which had a tile floor set on a cement bed over the subfloor. I plan on replacing the tile floor over cement board and would like to remove the flange and reinstall it to the correct height after the tile job is complete.
: I've used MAPP gas and even propane/oxygen to heat the joint up. It won't budge. Any suggestions?
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