|Posted by hj on October 13, 2001 at 23:24:27:|
|In response to Re: `|
The thing to do it consider the logistics. The toilet has a 2" opening in the middle of the outlet pipe. The outlet pipe is either 3" or 4" in diameter. If everything is working correctly, the water from the toilet is going to drop into a larger opening just like into a funnel and drain away. For it to leak onto the floor something has to make it back up. And the backup has to be serious enough to create enough water to get onto the floor. Either the drain has a serious problem, or the leak is coming down the back of the toilet from the tank to bowl seal.
: : If a tile has a hump in it, then have him shim the toilet until it no longer rocks. If the wax seal is making proper contact it would not normally leak. In fact given the logistics of the toilet outlet and the drain pipe size, it will normally not even leak unless there is a restriction in the drain pipe. How did he replace the drain pipe and raise the flange? That would normally require breaking the tile AND the floor to do both. Do not caulk the toilet to the floor until you cure the leak problem. Otherwise you will be concealing the problem instead of curing it.
: hj: He didn't break the floor or the tile. The tile didn't go over the rim of the flange, so it was no problem removing it. We have a crawl space, and I presume he removed the flange, and then the piping from the crawl space. We weren't home at the time, so I'm only guessing. And as to the suggestion from dumbdog, our plumber said he had a good seal, so I doubt another wax ring would do the job, but it could be worth a try. Does anyone know if the imperfections on the bottom of the toilet have any implications in this? Also, I put a level down tonight, and noticed that the floor slopes down about 1/4" on the side the water seems to be going to. Would shimming it 1/4" do the job? If so, what is recommended? My plumber says there is plastic wedges for this, but they compress within a year and you start all over again.
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