|Posted by ABDOLLAH on May 10, 2002 at 02:55:10:|
|In response to Re: Concrete backing wall for tile|
: : : : : I am currently remodeling my bathroom and just removed bathtub surrounding tiled walls (the wall had tiles to about 5 feet and the rest was painted wall. I only removed the tiled wall, keeping the painted portion untouched). When I install new concreat backing for new tiles, should the surface be flush with the painted wall or the concreat backing should be sticking out? If the surface of concreat walls should stick out, by how much?
: : : : Flush between both walls is best.
: : : Here's another slant on your project. I'm also doing a re-model on my bath and tore out an old fiberglass enclosure. This exposed the studs which I discovered were out of plumb. I added some new studs alongside the old ones allowing me to "plumb" the wall now. I matched the top of the stud to the existing sheetrock so they are flush also at the joint. Then I will add 1/2"x3'x5' sheets of WonderBoard or Hardibacker Board (both are concrete type backer board). I then will place it over the prior surface so it projects above the surface 1/2". This will give the appearance of a regular mortar bed for the new tile. I think it looks better than placing the tile flush on the old surface. This would be what a professional tile job would look like. They make a radius bullnose for the raised surface as opposed to a standard surface bullnose for a flush surface. Good luck!!
: : P.S. Also remember to use a vapor barrier under your concrete board such as roofing felt or Aquabar which is handled by tile stores and Home Depot. You can "fur out" your old studs with 1/2" plywood to match up to the existing 1/2" sheetrock and then place your new Wonderboard over this.
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