Re: Repair/Replace Broken Toilet Flange - Need Advice Please! (Long)

Posted by Tom Lorraine on July 14, 2001 at 00:58:10:
In response to Re: Repair/Replace Broken Toilet Flange - Need Advice Please! (Long)
I had a similar problem only the flange I was dealing with had broken all the way into the neck of the flange. I tried to chip it out as your lowes man suggested and I cracked the pipe. I thought I was going to have to spend a boat load of money and tear out the new floor I had just put in! I went ahead and cut/nipped the flange out flush with the opening of the pipe and ran gasket wax up into the hairline crack, wiped it and followed with a bit of pure silicone sealant to seal the pipe. I now had two choices, 1. I found a flange that would fit a 3" opening and but couldnt find a gasket/wax ring to fit the 2 1/2" opening remaining although Im sure someone makes one since someone makes the flange. so nix the new flange. 2. Fluid master has a wax free bowl gasket that fits 3and4 inch flanges. It has a heavy rubber O-ring that goes on the outside of the gasket neck and when inserted in the flange makes a positive seal against around the gasket leaks. Since I didnt have a flange ring (chipped away) I bought a flange extender(meant to raise the height [new flooring etc])this acted as my base. I secured it with 6 screws and then put the o-ring on the gasket neck that fits down in the pipe,pushed it down and basically had a new flange and gasket seal all in one. When the toilet is set in place the protruding lip of the toilet engages the thin rubber seal, presses it back in on the wall of the plastic gasket throat and effectively seals against backsplash! So far it has worked like a charm and I saved a LOT of $. Wax free bowl gasket 7500 by Fluidmaster. Good stuff and good luck to everyone who does it themselves, Tom Lorraine : : One of our toilets was loose for a long time but not leaking. I finally decided to address the problem : : before it did start leaking and cause damage to the ceiling below. After removing the toilet and cleaning : : the flange (yuck!), I found a cockeyed closet bolt on one side. After removing the bolts which were : : mounted to the flange with a washer and nut, I noticed the flange is cracked on the side where the : : cockeyed bolt was. The flange is ABS plastic guled onto a 3" ABS waste pipe. The screws that secure : : the flange to the subfloor are very rusty and could break off if I try removing them to install a repair : : kit or flange on top. I would also have to break some ceramic tile from aroud the flange, but that's : : no problem or concern. My repair plan would be as follows in order. I thought I would ask here before : : I make a lesson out of a possibly expensive mistake. : : 1) Try slotting the rusted flange screws with a dremel tool (hope & pray they don't break off) and : : then install a repair kit on the existing flange using new screws. If they break off then.... #2. : : 2) Cut the old flange out using a rotozip or dremel tool. This would leave me with the 3" waste pipe : : with part of the old flange pipe glued to the outside, but the pipe would be below subfloor level. I could : : then insert the new flange inside the 3" pipe and secure to the subfloor using new screws. : : Not my most favorite plan, but I think it might work. : : Never heard this one... is it true? : : The plumbing guy at Lowes says if I cut away part of the old flange, I can use a hammer & screwdriver : : to break the glued joint and remove the remaing flange. He said he's been doing it that way for years, : : but I always thought glued joints couldn't be broken apart once the glue sets. : : Your thoughts and advice would be much appreciated! : : Thanks in advance....! : : DeWayne

Posted by Tom Lorraine on July 14, 2001 at 00:58:10:

In response to Re: Repair/Replace Broken Toilet Flange - Need Advice Please! (Long)

I had a similar problem only the flange I was dealing with had broken all the way into the neck of the flange. I tried to chip it out as your lowes man suggested and I cracked the pipe. I thought I was going to have to spend a boat load of money and tear out the new floor I had just put in! I went ahead and cut/nipped the flange out flush with the opening of the pipe and ran gasket wax up into the hairline crack, wiped it and followed with a bit of pure silicone sealant to seal the pipe. I now had two choices,
1. I found a flange that would fit a 3" opening and but couldnt find a gasket/wax ring to fit the 2 1/2" opening remaining although Im sure someone makes one since someone makes the flange. so nix the new flange.
2. Fluid master has a wax free bowl gasket that fits 3and4 inch flanges. It has a heavy rubber
O-ring that goes on the outside of the gasket neck and when inserted in the flange makes a positive seal against around the gasket leaks.
Since I didnt have a flange ring (chipped away) I bought a flange extender(meant to raise the height [new flooring etc])this acted as my base. I secured it with 6 screws and then put the o-ring on the gasket neck that fits down in the pipe,pushed it down and basically had a new flange and gasket seal all in one. When the toilet is set in place the protruding lip of the toilet engages the thin rubber seal, presses it back in on the wall of the plastic gasket throat and effectively seals against backsplash! So far it has worked like a charm and I saved a LOT of $.

Wax free bowl gasket 7500 by Fluidmaster.
Good stuff and good luck to everyone who does it themselves, Tom Lorraine
: : One of our toilets was loose for a long time but not leaking. I finally decided to address the problem
: : before it did start leaking and cause damage to the ceiling below. After removing the toilet and cleaning
: : the flange (yuck!), I found a cockeyed closet bolt on one side. After removing the bolts which were
: : mounted to the flange with a washer and nut, I noticed the flange is cracked on the side where the
: : cockeyed bolt was. The flange is ABS plastic guled onto a 3" ABS waste pipe. The screws that secure
: : the flange to the subfloor are very rusty and could break off if I try removing them to install a repair
: : kit or flange on top. I would also have to break some ceramic tile from aroud the flange, but that's
: : no problem or concern. My repair plan would be as follows in order. I thought I would ask here before
: : I make a lesson out of a possibly expensive mistake.

: : 1) Try slotting the rusted flange screws with a dremel tool (hope & pray they don't break off) and
: : then install a repair kit on the existing flange using new screws. If they break off then.... #2.

: : 2) Cut the old flange out using a rotozip or dremel tool. This would leave me with the 3" waste pipe
: : with part of the old flange pipe glued to the outside, but the pipe would be below subfloor level. I could
: : then insert the new flange inside the 3" pipe and secure to the subfloor using new screws.
: : Not my most favorite plan, but I think it might work.

: : Never heard this one... is it true?

: : The plumbing guy at Lowes says if I cut away part of the old flange, I can use a hammer & screwdriver
: : to break the glued joint and remove the remaing flange. He said he's been doing it that way for years,
: : but I always thought glued joints couldn't be broken apart once the glue sets.

: : Your thoughts and advice would be much appreciated!

: : Thanks in advance....!

: : DeWayne

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