|Posted by Dick --Alaska on February 12, 19101 at 22:54:10:|
|In response to Re: Q - wax ring / toilet install..|
I'm no "pro", but having owned a string of rentals, I learned more about toilet rings than I really wanted to know.
You are right on with the "No-Seep" brand if it has the cast-in plastic "horn" that points down into the toilet flange.
The ring usually falls off because the recess cast into the bottom of the toilet is still damp. Try washing it lightly with a rag dampened with a little paint thinner, then clean again with mild soapsuds followed by clear water, and dry THOROUGHLY before applying the ring.
It can help "lock" them in place if you take a little of the wax (OK to steal a little from the "retired" ring by exposing a clean portion) and first wipe a thin layer all around the inside of the doughnut-shaped recess cast into the underside of the toilet. Apply the new ring with a slight twisting motion and it should stay put.
Another tip: Test the bowl bolts and nuts with a magnet. If not solid brass, best to replace them with a "real" all-brass set, in case you ever have to do this adventure again.
Also, take a washable felt pen and mark the floor sideways several inches out to either side of the bolts so you can locate them closely while balancing the bowl inmid-air and trying to avoid a hernia. You are much less likely to dislodge the ring if you can use the marks as a guide to "home in" on the bolts accurately so you can drop the bowl straight down by using the marks as a guide. This is all easier without the tank installed, but with care the balance point can be determined and the whole assembly lifted as level as possible. Use your four fingers inside the rim, not the thumb--these things take on weight in mid-air and if your thumb gives out at the wrong moment you will have more than the wax ring to concern you.
Last, when everything is secured, wipe a small bead of genuine silicone caulk (the mildewproof type marked "TUB AND BATH" completely around the joint between the toilet base and floor. Wait ten minutes or so and wipe off excess, then leave undisturbed overnight. This will effectively avoid any "rocking" due to possible floor irregularities, yet can easily be cut loose with a utility knife if the bowl ever needs to be removed again.
If the floorcovering is not already glued down under the bowl (linoleum, etc.), lift the material slightly around the edges of the hole and wipe some silicone on the underside of the floorcovering just before finally placing the bowl and tightening it down. No need to silicone under the bowl--only makes it harder to dislodge later--a bead smoothed firmly into the joint is plenty to "solidify" your artistry.
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