|Posted by Dean Smith on September 29, 19100 at 13:56:21:|
|In response to Re: Bathtub installation - floor joist in way of drain|
: : I'm remodeling a bathroom and replacing a shower with a bathtub. Unfortunately, the overflow pipe and
: : tailpiece of the new bathtub will be directly on top of a floor joist. In order to give clearance for the pipes
: : and trap I'll need to remove a short portion of the joist, and then scab on another board behind the joist to
: : reinforced it. In order to get access to the joist to reinforce it, I'll need to tear up some of the bedroom floor.
: : This isn't something I want to do.
: : But, I've heard there's a different type of assembly that can be used. This assembly has the cleanout
: : Does anyone know if this different type of assembly really exists and where it might be purchased?
: : Thanks much.
: I would use a ABS or PVC glue type waste and overflow drain. this way, you can use street 45 bends to angle parts of the drain away from the joist. If the joist is on center with the drain, you can use a S-45 at the top to offset alongside the joist. If the joist runs across the drain, you can use two together to offset to the other side. Terry
These so-called professional plumbers (KIDDING!) are recommending PVC, and there are certainly a lot of PVC tub trains out there, but as you're installing a fitting thay you will probably NEVER have access to after you install the tub, I (a total amateur, albiet a good researcher & listener)suggest you go with an all-brass unit. I thought I had the same problem when I replaced my tub. The old tub drain was a SIDE-OUTLET model-the water drained left to right & the fitting only came down about 3" below the tub ( a notch in the joist was/is required, but that's pretty easy). I went out & tracked down a NEW brass offset drain from Gerber (they're not that easy to find, so try Gerber first!), but when I went to put my new Americast tub in, I found that the new drain location was now slighly off center (3/4"), so I was able to use a regular brass drain because they have a little "play" in them that allow you to send the drain slighlty left or right (they use compression fittings). The reason I wanted to do this is that the side-outlet drain limits the type of drain stopper you can choose from. I wanted the kind that has a permenant strainer over the drain with the actual plugging mechanism (a big weight) located inside the drain somehwere, and, of course, that style doesn't work with a side outlet! Good luck! Dean Smith
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