Unusual noise emanating from well tank

Hello all,
I have a well system with a submersible pump, and a tank of some sort.

Recently, I have been hearing a noise from the tank toward the end of the pump cycle. It sounds like water trickling, or squirting (for lack of a better term). As soon as the pump stops, the noise stops. I haven't noticed any loss of pressure, or air at the faucets.

I am not sure if that is enough info, though I assume it is probably not.

I would appreciate any advice you can give, so thanks in advance.

BTW, I am a regular over at the John Bridge forums, not sure is that helps, or hurts.

Not sure what the image posting rules are, if I am outta line lemme know.

From the way you've described it, it sounds like you have a pinhole leak in the bladder of the well tank. I think your hearing water escaping from the lower chamber of the tank to the upper chamber of the tank as the pump is running. If so then you'll need a new well tank. I may be wrong though, let's hear what others have to say.

Ahhhh, I was afeared of that.

Thanks for the quick response.

One more thing check the sticker on the bottom of that Flexcon tank. It should have a date of manufacture on it. If it's within the past 5 years it is within the manufacturer's warranty period. If this is so then you should be able to get a free replacement well tank minus the cost of labor to have it installed.

Teets said:

One more thing check the sticker on the bottom of that Flexcon tank. It should have a date of manufacture on it. If it's within the past 5 years it is within the manufacturer's warranty period. If this is so then you should be able to get a free replacement well tank minus the cost of labor to have it installed.

Click to expand...

Thanks Teets, I checked, and the manufacture date is 1993. Prolly out of warranty, eh?

How difficult is it to install the tank? I am pretty well versed in basic, and even intermediate plumbing.

Pretty simple. Kill the breaker to the well pump and hook a hose to the boiler drain at the front of the tank tee and drain the tank and house of water. Once you're sure the power is off, disconnect and remove the wiring from under the pressure switch cover. Make sure the power is OFF! Once the system is drained you can break apart the union on the right hand side of the tank. Then you'll need a copper cutter or hacksaw to cut the 3/4" plumbing on the left hand side of the tank. Then you can un-thread all the fitting from the tank tee and the copper plumbing connected to the tank tee, and even the tank tee itself if you plan on re-using it. Re-install all fittings the same way you disconnected them, and if you can solder, solder a copper coupling to the 3/4" copper house piping and the copper piping you re-used from the tank. Re-wire the pressure switch the same way you un-wired it, flip the breaker and you should be ready to go. Check the pre-charge on the new tank and make sure its 2 psi less than your current pressure switch setting. Example if its 30/50 tank should be 28 psi, if it's 40/60 tank pre-charge should be 38 psi.

You can leave a little air out of the tank and see if you get water vapor or water, if so the bladder is bust. Rock the tank a bit, if it's bad it will be fairly heavy and you might hear water sloshing around in it.

Thanks for your help guys.

I'll give that a try Gary.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but you can test the bladder by draining the tank then checking the air pressure with a tire gauge. If the air pressure is low (like 0-5 psi), then the bladder is most likely bad. If it's higher, I would try adding air and bring it up to the -2psi point. Then in a few days, check it again.

Have you noticed a drop in water pressure? Usually when the bladder goes out you'll notice a big drop in water pressure after running a faucet for a while.

Low pressure in the tank can be caused by a leaking valve stem. So low air pressure does not mean a bad bladder.

I have not noticed any drop in pressure at the faucets.

Unless you use a gauge to measure it, you won't be able to notice a decreased pressure.

You can buy a gauge that screws on an outside faucet or a utility sink faucet. They are like $10.

Hi guys,
Well (pun intended), I'm finally getting around to addressing this problem. I hope it's not too late for my submersible pump.

The noise has long since ceased, and now the pump makes frequent, short cycles. Not good from what I've read here. If I run the faucet at the laundry tub, the gauge goes down quickly, the pump cuts in at around 28, and cuts out at 50. The filling cycle only takes about 10 seconds. I have to assume the bladder is bad, but that is an assumption.

I let a little air out at the valve, and got just air, no water, no visible vapor. The tank seems very heavy.

I'd like to use the whirl famous CSV I've read so much about. But I also need to replace my tank ASAP (I think). Can I get an equivalent tank to replace the existing one, like today, and then install the CSV when it comes in? Also, if you could advise exactly which CSV I need I'd appreciate it. I found a good deal on the CSV1Z, for $150. If that'll work, I'd like to order it.

Thanks in advance guys.

I dug up the original Well Log and Drilling report. Rather than typing out the info, I'll just post an image of it. Lemme know if you need any additional info.

The tank is either low on air pressure with no water in the tank or the bladder is bust.

If you don't fix this soon you'll ruin the pump. ITMT your electric bill should be higher.

If with no water being used the guage shows falling pressure you have a leak somewhere.

Now might be a good time to think about a CSV

Thanks guys.

I'd like to replace the tank with one of similar size, so I have a little backup during our somewhat frequent power outages. If I do, will the CSV1Z valve still be suitable? I currently have a 33 gal/82 gal equivalent.

Yes the CSV1Z will work fine with an 82 gallon tank. With the CSV you really do not need this large of a tank but, it will work fine.